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Standard story - knock knock DRC is gone.

I’m just about to buy in some new coil overs, still tossing up between B14s, B16s and KW V3s. Really looking for the best ride quality over out and out performance. I don’t track the car but I do hills runs from time to time and do give it a good squirt. It’s a daily for me that I also occasionally do long trips in, so having some compliance and behaving on Adelaide’s relatively average roads is important.

Anyway, what else should be done at the same time? ARBs I hear are a must, and I’m getting uneven tyre wear so planning to put adjustable front UCAs on to counter the camber. Anything else I should look at doing while the suspension is out? Bushing kits etc?

Car is a 2007 Avant, 120k km on it, has been well looked after and other than the suspension knock feels nice and tight.



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B14s on mine, I much prefer the ride. I moved from drc with standard wheels/tyres to b14s with 20s and 30 profile tyres as well. If you’ve got ss+ already then probably don’t need to update the arb, if not then most just suggest changing the rear arb only


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I would have no issues daily driving mine (KW v3 set soft, with H&R ARBs) - the ride is plenty supple enough.

I’ve briefly been in a car on B14s and the ride felt just as comfortable.


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Thanks guys,

When you did your coil overs, what else did you do? I.e any bolt / bushing kits that should be done at the same time?


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I didn’t do anything, just had coil overs fitted then alignment done


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i wouldnt fit the adjustable front arms unless you are using on track-once the front subframe is central and camber even/toe adjusted it will be fine for tyre wear

When I had mine done I renewed all the arms. One of the bushes had an advisory on the previous mot so thought get it all done at once.
Bit less on labour and tracking etc overall.

Mike

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Arthur - I have the KW HAS at the moment and I’m getting excessive wear on the inside front tyres with it lowered. Looking to even that out.

Thanks for the responses so far.


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If you're running that low, you'll need adjustable arms.
Is it 034 who do them?
I think Me Fish had them on his. ?!?

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its the toe that wears tyres-negative camber up to -3 deg or so wont cause excessive wear,dont think you would be anywhere near -3 deg camber on a lowered rs4,mine on b14[ableit set at at max permissable height] is about -1 deg appx,if your camber is uneven on front[ie excessive on one side] you need to move the subframe across a bit

nice looking rs4 in first pic too...

Thanks. The front is dropped a bit from the pic above, the tyre gap matches the rear. It’s not excessive but enough to give the car pretty much the perfect stance.

I’ll look at the camber arms anyway I think. I have heard the arms are a wear item. Should I do lowers at the same time?


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like a lot of folk i did the front arms upper/lower and droplinks when it was apart
here in the uk we suffer terribly with the front pinch bolts seizing[the ones that hold the upper arm outer knuckles to the suspension upright]-adds to the job,in a friendlier climate they may come out a little easier-but watch out for this bit causing you grief in any case

I’ve heard it’s better to go for Stern over 034.

KW V3s ordered with H&R ARBs. Thanks all for the input. Looking forward to getting rid of that nasty knock! Hoping I feel the difference with the ARBs too - be nice if she becomes a little more playful


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You’ll have to let us know how you get on. Based on a fair amount of research I’m still deciding between kw1’s (play it safe all rounder?, kw3’s (although I don’t think i’ll need to adjust) and billstein b14’s (“the drivers choice” according to those I’ve spoken to).