RS246.com Forum :: The World's #1 Audi R, S and RS Enthusiast Community

So I'm going to try replacing this return pipe first to hopefully cure a lazy clutch pedal - I'm thinking of doing the clutch at the same time.

I see many people also do the flywheel at the same time, is this really necessary? My car's just done 53k if mileage is part of the reason!

Depends on the condition of the flywheel, most DualMass flywheels have a 80k lifespan it totally depends on driving/abuse etc etc.
But personally i'd replace it as if you put it all back together and 3,000 miles later the flywheel is chattering its all got to come apart again, Double the cost when you could just get it all done at once.

If these arent dual mass then i'd be replacing it with a lighter flywheel anyway to remove the rotational drag on the crank, makes it rev a bit more freely.

Get Robnik to supply you with an updated braided hose James. The OEM replacement is practically the same as the original. People have replaced this with Audi as well as the clutch and flywheel and had the sticking clutch return.

If your clutch has been sticking and not releasing you will probably have been wearing both the clutch and flywheel. Unless it's slipping though, I'd just change the pipe and see how you get on. It's only a few hours work.

Just changing the hose is not a job to be taken lightly as my Indy told me after doing mine. There is quite a bit of work just gaining access to do the job. Mine was done at the same time as clutch and flywheel. He also commented to me that you'd be mad to strip it down that far and not do the job properly (I.e change the flywheel at the same time) so I'd say do the whole lot and know that it's 100%.

My clutch was not slipping but it was getting difficult to engage gear (particularly 1st). The pressure plate had worn to the end of its self adjustment so it definitely needed the clutch changing. Massive difference now it's all done.

Pistolpete2543 wrote:Just changing the hose is not a job to be taken lightly as my Indy told me after doing mine. There is quite a bit of work just gaining access to do the job. Mine was done at the same time as clutch and flywheel. He also commented to me that you'd be mad to strip it down that far and not do the job properly (I.e change the flywheel at the same time) so I'd say do the whole lot and know that it's 100%.

My clutch was not slipping but it was getting difficult to engage gear (particularly 1st). The pressure plate had worn to the end of its self adjustment so it definitely needed the clutch changing. Massive difference now it's all done.

+1

jaysrs4 wrote:So I'm going to try replacing this return pipe first to hopefully cure a lazy clutch pedal - I'm thinking of doing the clutch at the same time.

I see many people also do the flywheel at the same time, is this really necessary? My car's just done 53k if mileage is part of the reason!

have a look at my clutch replacement guide link in my signature

Irrespective of whether the clutch / flywheel are changed or not, I would want the updated part fitting so the issue can't happen in the future.

My car's just hit 44k miles. I had no signs of a sticking clutch, nor did the previous owner but I booked it in with Rob and had the pipe and relating items changed anyway as good preventative maintenance. When my clutch is showing signs of wear I'll replace it (and the flywheel) , regardless of whether it's in a weeks time or several years down the line. The work to do the clutch pipe isn't very labour intensive unless bolts break.

R1RS4 wrote:

Pistolpete2543 wrote:Just changing the hose is not a job to be taken lightly as my Indy told me after doing mine. There is quite a bit of work just gaining access to do the job. Mine was done at the same time as clutch and flywheel. He also commented to me that you'd be mad to strip it down that far and not do the job properly (I.e change the flywheel at the same time) so I'd say do the whole lot and know that it's 100%.

My clutch was not slipping but it was getting difficult to engage gear (particularly 1st). The pressure plate had worn to the end of its self adjustment so it definitely needed the clutch changing. Massive difference now it's all done.

+1

Agreed

2k+ all inclusive (the dmfw alone was 660 + vat on my B6) but a false economy *not* do it all together at the same time

Can someone elaborate on the "pipe" and "hose" that is also recommended to be replaced with the clutch and flywheel please? ie Part numbers and if the "upgraded" hose is needed.
Thanks

Check out my own thread for details

viewtopic.php?f=35&t=118266

Hi,

If you have no clutch issues or DMF noise and just want to change the pipe as preventitive maintenance it is around a 3 to 4 hours job to do, to replace the clutch / DMF is around 6 to 8 hours and obviously you will have a new clutch and DMF to buy, so it is really up to you. Your clutch may be ok for some considerable time / mileage or it may start to give problems not long after just replacing the pipe. Fact is if the pipe does start to fail internally - remember it's only an el cheapo rubber pipe that's been cooked regularly for 9 or 10 years! it will kill your good clutch in one spirited drive, and yes agreed whilst in there definately replace the DMF or go single mass if that's your choice remember though they do chatter and alter the standard drive characteristics slightly.

So in all say 4 to 6 hours extra work to do the Clutch / DMF at between 55 - 85/hour depending which indie does it - I'm guessing dealer to be 120 - 150/hour?

As you can see from Pistolpete's thread I have been selling an 'uprated' pipe after I came across the sticking pedal issue a couple of years back on a customers car, not much more money than a new OE one, whichever pipe you choose to use just make sure you replace it when fitting a new clutch / fly.

hth

Rob