New RS4 owner
New RS4 owner
Hi guys I have just purchased a 2006 rs4 and was wondering if someone can help on answering a few questions?
My oil temp reads about 94-95 but then in traffic or hard driving it rises to 100-101 is this normal?
I am thinking of doing an oil change will I be ok using castrol edge 5w30 (available in eBay for £31.50 for 4l) guess I will need 3 lots
The exhaust valaves seem the same on mine even if the S button is pressed, could they be stuck? If so how can I free them ?
Answers will be appreciated
Thanks in advance
My oil temp reads about 94-95 but then in traffic or hard driving it rises to 100-101 is this normal?
I am thinking of doing an oil change will I be ok using castrol edge 5w30 (available in eBay for £31.50 for 4l) guess I will need 3 lots
The exhaust valaves seem the same on mine even if the S button is pressed, could they be stuck? If so how can I free them ?
Answers will be appreciated
Thanks in advance
Re: New RS4 owner
Oil temp is fine, you're not driving it hard enough. I have found the older the oil the warmer the temp reads, keep it filled too, any lower I find effects it too.
You just need to give the valves a good lubing and some gentle manipulating over time. Failing that and they are completely seized, the only answer is a Milltek :p
You just need to give the valves a good lubing and some gentle manipulating over time. Failing that and they are completely seized, the only answer is a Milltek :p
Re: New RS4 owner
Come on Jay. Where's the FON!
FON and welcome. Rule 1 please.
As jay said, oil is fine - drive it hard and you'll be 110+ or more. Edge is good - I use Fusch - gets to temp quicker and has a slightly narrower operating temp I find. Don't think, just do the change
After 5k miles, I find the oil breaks down and you'll be burning a bit more. Keep it just under full but not over full.
Valves - either they are stuck - if they don't move when pushed with the wooden end of a hammer say, they are seized. Soak with a good anti seize spray and give them a push. Can take weeks in some instances to work completely free with some persuasion. If they are moving, but not actuating, you may have a vacuum leak that will require VCDS and a particular vac check part of the power flap (in the air box if not removed) check. Search here for power flap check.
Milltek. You could. Or JCWF system to replace or alike. Once you get into exhausts, do your own due diligence. Don't just go for the default Milltek. Many here wouldn't...
Enjoy.
FON and welcome. Rule 1 please.
As jay said, oil is fine - drive it hard and you'll be 110+ or more. Edge is good - I use Fusch - gets to temp quicker and has a slightly narrower operating temp I find. Don't think, just do the change

After 5k miles, I find the oil breaks down and you'll be burning a bit more. Keep it just under full but not over full.
Valves - either they are stuck - if they don't move when pushed with the wooden end of a hammer say, they are seized. Soak with a good anti seize spray and give them a push. Can take weeks in some instances to work completely free with some persuasion. If they are moving, but not actuating, you may have a vacuum leak that will require VCDS and a particular vac check part of the power flap (in the air box if not removed) check. Search here for power flap check.
Milltek. You could. Or JCWF system to replace or alike. Once you get into exhausts, do your own due diligence. Don't just go for the default Milltek. Many here wouldn't...
Enjoy.
Last edited by neilparf on Sat Aug 08, 2015 7:48 am, edited 2 times in total.
Gone but never forgotten:
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
Re: New RS4 owner
As long as they are seized in the open position I wouldn't worry about it. Saves you having to disconnect valves.
Re: New RS4 owner
Thanks for the replies guys
With the exhaust valves if I look under the car I can see the round valves but the moving part of the valves are they on top of the round circular thing I am looking at
hope this makes sense
With the exhaust valves if I look under the car I can see the round valves but the moving part of the valves are they on top of the round circular thing I am looking at
hope this makes sense
Re: New RS4 owner
Yes, that's it... they should actuate if all is well...rs4uk wrote:Thanks for the replies guys
With the exhaust valves if I look under the car I can see the round valves but the moving part of the valves are they on top of the round circular thing I am looking at
hope this makes sense
They are sealed and not reapairable, unfortunately:/
Gone but never forgotten:
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
2007 RS4 B7 Saloon, Metallic Silver with SS+.
LED's all round and Dectane LED tailights. KDS detail and paint. Lepsons black chrome, heavy on the silver wheels. JCWeldFab full system - valved and no pre-cats. MRC stage 2, de-flap and full carbon clean - 438PS and 489NM. HEL brake lines. H&R Spacers. Gtechniq C1 and EXO V2 coatings. 2010+ RNS-E. On the MRC dyno: http://youtu.be/y_k0VJ2--y8
Re: New RS4 owner
I freed mine up by using a length of copper tube and an engineers adjustment tool, took about an hour a side being careful. Then once moving, keep them lubed as part as weekly cleaning 

Re: New RS4 owner
The valve without vacuum will be open, they open by the bottom half as its sat on the car swinging into the exhaust. Note the orientation of the flap isnt horizontal, it rotates at 20:10 for passenger side and 22:20 for drivers. So to move a seized item, gently tap 20:25 passengers and 22:35 driver side. Once moving you will need to lever the flap back and try again untill moving freely. Use plenty of penetrating oil. Might be easy to pop off the vac lines as they will be helping to hold um closed.
Re: New RS4 owner
Push them open and disconnect the valves. Unless you have an aftermarket exhaust it is nowhere near loud enough to worry about noise.
Re: New RS4 owner
Don't suppose anyone has the part number for vacuum hose controlling the valves? One of mine has a split in it and the local Audi parts department don't seem to be able to see it on their diagrams. 

Re: New RS4 owner
Hi guys
The RHS valve was open
The LHS valve was closed, I manged to get this open with wd40 and forcing the valve open (it won't shut though it's stick open)
But it still sounds the same?
Nowhere near as loud as this with valves open
Watch "Audi RS4 Avant Exhaust" on YouTube -
https://youtu.be/EVM6z4iCMHU
The RHS valve was open
The LHS valve was closed, I manged to get this open with wd40 and forcing the valve open (it won't shut though it's stick open)
But it still sounds the same?
Nowhere near as loud as this with valves open
Watch "Audi RS4 Avant Exhaust" on YouTube -
https://youtu.be/EVM6z4iCMHU
Re: New RS4 owner
If I'm not mistaken, the car in the video has a custom centre exhaust section (either an x or h pipe), so no centre silencer.
Marc1 - Regarding the hose, I wouldn't bother with the Audi hose, just need some generic silicone hose and connection pieces. I got some 3mm, 4mm and 5mm hose and connectors from a company called auto silicone hoses...I wasn't sure which size I needed so got different sizes. I think it was the 4mm stuff that fit in the end, but don't hold me to that, my memory is terrible! No vac leaks flagged on my recent trip to MRC Tuning, so all good.
Marc1 - Regarding the hose, I wouldn't bother with the Audi hose, just need some generic silicone hose and connection pieces. I got some 3mm, 4mm and 5mm hose and connectors from a company called auto silicone hoses...I wasn't sure which size I needed so got different sizes. I think it was the 4mm stuff that fit in the end, but don't hold me to that, my memory is terrible! No vac leaks flagged on my recent trip to MRC Tuning, so all good.

2007 RS4 B7 Avant
Phantom Black | Black Optics | MRC Stage 2 | JC Weldfab Exhaust | KW V3 coilovers | H&R ARBs | 20" Ispiri ISR-8 | Titanium wing mirrors | Driving Passion Diffuser | CF Air Intake | Manifold deflap | Alcantara/leather retrim | TT RS Steering Wheel | Pioneer Apple Carplay HU, JL amp and sub, Focal components | Clear Headlight Lenses, Black Internals, 6000K Bulbs | Trups LEDs | LED Tail lights |
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Re: New RS4 owner
What engine revs are you using and have you got Sport mode on?rs4uk wrote:But it still sounds the same?
IIRC in non-Sport mode the valves are open at idle but then shut and stay shut until approx 3000rpm when they open again, in Sport mode the valves are open at all rpm.
Gone: 2006 B7 RS4 Avant (Phantom Black)
Re: New RS4 owner
Carb cleaner is the best thing to use . then wd40 and wipe out all the build up . Done mine a few months ago and had no problems since
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