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Guys, I need a new clutch.

Is this the correct item for a B7 RS4?

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Audi_ ... 54e&000069

Both the flywheel and the clutch were only changed by MRC in Feb 2014, about 8k miles ago...I'm just shocked that the car needs another so soon. A shame because I bought this car specifically because it had had this big ticket spend item done recently!

Anyway, if I can get the LUK clutch for £140 It'll dampen the blow for sure.

Opinions on this clutch?

Yasir

Have you contacted MRC? How do you know it's defiantly the clutch?

The car is at a local garage called Elite Auto Works who do excellent work, owner of the garage ran an RS4 for some time and I have used them on other specialist German vehicles, they know their stuff.

They inspected the car today and said the clutch has had it.

I called MRC and spoke to Ben who said there is nothing they can do because the warranty period is 1 year or 6000 miles. The car has done 8000 miles and it's been 13 months.

Sorry I can't help on your quesiton but I would take ECP's website with a pinch of salt tbh, better off giving someone like http://www.murraysdirect.co.uk/ a ring and they will be able to source the OEM item for you at a fraction of Audi's price, possibly even cheaper than ECP.

I've used them for many years.

Does seem pretty soon for the Clutch to go if you only had it replaced in 2014.

Sachs make a stock replacement clutch as well. I'd consider getting one of them considering some perceived flaws with the LUK unit.

JCviggen wrote:Sachs make a stock replacement clutch as well. I'd consider getting one of them considering some perceived flaws with the LUK unit.

Never heard anything bad about LUK, what's the deal here?

Im no smart arse but a clutch should do a lot more than that surely ? My paddle clutch in my old car had done 15k and it was perfect still . That was pushing over 350bhp also

I'm still on my original clutch with over 85k miles on the clock - and had an MRC Stage 2 tune done 2 years ago.

CellDamage wrote: Never heard anything bad about LUK, what's the deal here?

Never heard of the sticking clutch? The luk pressure plate is at least partially complicit in this issue.

What does a new clutch and flywheel amount to these days roughly?

JCviggen wrote:

CellDamage wrote: Never heard anything bad about LUK, what's the deal here?

Never heard of the sticking clutch? The luk pressure plate is at least partially complicit in this issue.

Yes but wasn't aware this could be attributed to LUK only.

ChrisW wrote:What does a new clutch and flywheel amount to these days roughly?

I believe you're looking at over £1000 in parts from Audi. Best off trying to source the OEM non-Audi-branded items.

chappardababbar wrote:The car is at a local garage called Elite Auto Works who do excellent work, owner of the garage ran an RS4 for some time and I have used them on other specialist German vehicles, they know their stuff.

They inspected the car today and said the clutch has had it.

I called MRC and spoke to Ben who said there is nothing they can do because the warranty period is 1 year or 6000 miles. The car has done 8000 miles and it's been 13 months.

What were the symptoms? I'm very surprised to hear it has failed so soon. Like petrol dave, my car is on 65k miles and has had stage 2 mods for 2.5 years with no sign of the clutch going.

Symptoms are super low biting point. Impossible to put into first or reverse. When it does slot into gear ( sometimes only possible by switching off the engine) it feels like you are pulling the car out of gear without disengaging the clutch I.e you get drive train shunt.

I think the cause is poor gear changes by previous owner. When we went for a drive he was very harsh with changes, not smooth at all. I figured since he changed the clutch 8k miles ago he couldn't have done too much damage. WRONG

I think he changed the clutch because he wrecked it himself, put a new one in, then wrecked it again.

I think that if you have a low owner car on high miles and an original clutch, that's a GOOD thing. It means the car has been driven sympathetically.

I too am on my original at 87k. As you say it does show that the car has been well looked after. However I'm also starting to get the drive train shunt. When staionary as I engage first the car very slightly rocks forward. This is mainly when cold but is starting to occur when warmed up too. Looks like I'll be off to MRC sooner rather than later.