Hi guys
In the last three months I have had new discs and pads fitted and during the last two weeks the car has developed a slight brake judder through both the steering wheel and pedal. Any ideas what this could be.
Cheers
Jarrod.
Brake judder
Re: Brake judder
From my recent experiences I would say you need to strip the brakes down and see what's going on. My issue for example was corrosion under the plates the pads slide on which trapped the pads causing hot spots as the pads didn't release correctly. You could measure the runout if you have the kit, but as most don't, if you are handy with the tools I'd get stripping and cleaning
This will now be at lest an annual event for me!
Cheers

This will now be at lest an annual event for me!
Cheers
2006 RS4 Avant - Carbon Clean, Intake Ports Polished, HF Air Filter, MRC Remap
1998 Toyota Supra 3.0 TT - de-cat, bleed valve, UK Spec Brakes, HKS Springs & CW Dampers, Goodridge Lines, Pagid Pads & 360 RWHP
1990 Toyota Supra 3.0 T - de-cat, HKS Boost Controller (1.4 bar max), used as a daily drive for 110k miles on original turbo!
198x Granada 2.8i Ghia X - Can't remember the exact year - but a great car!
1998 Toyota Supra 3.0 TT - de-cat, bleed valve, UK Spec Brakes, HKS Springs & CW Dampers, Goodridge Lines, Pagid Pads & 360 RWHP
1990 Toyota Supra 3.0 T - de-cat, HKS Boost Controller (1.4 bar max), used as a daily drive for 110k miles on original turbo!
198x Granada 2.8i Ghia X - Can't remember the exact year - but a great car!
Re: Brake judder
If you do a search there are several long and very helpful threads on this - I had this problem too - good luck!
__________________________________________________________
RS4 B7 Saloon Daytona grey
Black optics, Milltek, Ceramics, Carbon clean.
Ferrari 360 Modena F1
No isofix!
RS4 B7 Saloon Daytona grey
Black optics, Milltek, Ceramics, Carbon clean.
Ferrari 360 Modena F1
No isofix!
Re: Brake judder
+1V8mark wrote:From my recent experiences I would say you need to strip the brakes down and see what's going on. My issue for example was corrosion under the plates the pads slide on which trapped the pads causing hot spots as the pads didn't release correctly. You could measure the runout if you have the kit, but as most don't, if you are handy with the tools I'd get stripping and cleaning![]()
This will now be at lest an annual event for me!
Cheers
I am just doing my fronts, very difficult to get the pads out
As you say corrosion under the end plates shutting down the free play on the pads
I removed the single end bolts flexed the end plates clear and removed all the debri/stroke corrosion, filed nice and flat then coated with high melt copper slip, folded back fitted new button heads ( cannot get from the stealers) as the bolts/ screws are from the calliper kit.
The pads move nice and freely now
I will be doing yearly too
RS4 B7 Avant,2007
Metallic black, Black optics pack, Black gloss Wheels, Milltek black tipped -valved, MRC Installed TTS Supercharger 610ps/626nm, MRC stage 3 remap, CAF, DRC/SS+ with H&R spacers, carbon race splitter, carbon trim
Metallic black, Black optics pack, Black gloss Wheels, Milltek black tipped -valved, MRC Installed TTS Supercharger 610ps/626nm, MRC stage 3 remap, CAF, DRC/SS+ with H&R spacers, carbon race splitter, carbon trim
Re: Brake judder
R1RS4 wrote:V8mark wrote:From my recent experiences I would say you need to strip the brakes down and see what's going on. My issue for example was corrosion under the plates the pads slide on which trapped the pads causing hot spots as the pads didn't release correctly. You could measure the runout if you have the kit, but as most don't, if you are handy with the tools I'd get stripping and cleaning![]()
This will now be at lest an annual event for me!
Cheers
+1
I am just doing my fronts, very difficult to get the pads out
As you say corrosion under the end plates shutting down the free play on the pads
I removed the single end bolts flexed the end plates clear and removed all the debri/stroke corrosion, filed nice and flat then coated with high melt copper slip, folded back fitted new button heads ( cannot get from the stealers) as the bolts/ screws are from the calliper kit.
+2 Audi failed to spot this on 3 occasions, blaming me and my driving style
, had the capliers clean and the discs taken off and skimmed, all good now, i to will have them checked/cleaned every 6-12 months
The pads move nice and freely now
I will be doing yearly too
2007 Sprint Blue RS4 (B7) Black Optics, Solar Sunroof
Re: Brake judder
The stealers would not go into that much detail
So important to keep an eye on the braking system
Also where possible when parking for any length of time, don't apply the brakes and hand brake as the moisture gets trapped between pads and disks, we have all heard it when you then pull away and you hear the donk! When the pads are stuck.
I now reverse up to a block on the drive without braking and turn it off and put it in gear, no clonking and no marking on the discs, all helps
So important to keep an eye on the braking system
Also where possible when parking for any length of time, don't apply the brakes and hand brake as the moisture gets trapped between pads and disks, we have all heard it when you then pull away and you hear the donk! When the pads are stuck.
I now reverse up to a block on the drive without braking and turn it off and put it in gear, no clonking and no marking on the discs, all helps
RS4 B7 Avant,2007
Metallic black, Black optics pack, Black gloss Wheels, Milltek black tipped -valved, MRC Installed TTS Supercharger 610ps/626nm, MRC stage 3 remap, CAF, DRC/SS+ with H&R spacers, carbon race splitter, carbon trim
Metallic black, Black optics pack, Black gloss Wheels, Milltek black tipped -valved, MRC Installed TTS Supercharger 610ps/626nm, MRC stage 3 remap, CAF, DRC/SS+ with H&R spacers, carbon race splitter, carbon trim
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