Is it worth getting the car detailed now or wait?

[steve_70]

Phew, had to sit in a comfy chair to read all that

If you were closer I'd take you up on the offer, Steve, but you're probably about 3hrs away . If you need any help on the business side (accounts, tax, insurance, website) I can probably help.

Thanks for the support Steve, much appreciated,I may take you up on that some time maybe

about 3 hours yes, I may need to use the peugeot SW for travelling stuff or get a van, the petrol costs for the RS would be more than the cost of the detailing

...You never know I may go on a detailing tour

[S4Player]

Just came in from our gym night out completely steaming drunk can't sleep so I'm on here how sad ha? Steve I'll sponsor you to go detail tour heck you can stay in my spare room and show Glasgow how detailing should be done hahaha

[steve_70]

Just came in from our gym night out completely steaming drunk can't sleep so I'm on here how sad ha? Steve I'll sponsor you to go detail tour heck you can stay in my spare room and show Glasgow how detailing should be done hahaha

hope you had a good night out


Edit to say: RS246 ... wheres the Porn

But then I thought, you got it right there @MRC ...oh oh,wheres those kleenex gone

[steve_70]

Not one of my details but I think, these are two great before and after shots that were advocates if ever I have seen for a detailing service

[Steve_C]

which photo is the before one?

[steve_70]

which photo is the before one?

[Jimmeh]

Hey! They're my pictures...

RE having a car detailed, if anything, you should look into having the bodywork (and other exterior elements) stripped back, cleansed and protected against the road salts. Pricing for this, on say, an A4 saloon, would come in around £120-200 dependant on where you go.

[steve_70]

Hey! They're my pictures...

Hope you dont mind, they just look spot on

[lengster1]

And what products would you use for a winter prep? I was going to do a little trial and error detailing with my work car today but the wax n polish was frozen!!!! Was going to give it a light cut with megs 80 or 83 using the DA followed by AG srp and then hand apply collinite 915

[andre3k]

Hey! They're my pictures...

RE having a car detailed, if anything, you should look into having the bodywork (and other exterior elements) stripped back, cleansed and protected against the road salts. Pricing for this, on say, an A4 saloon, would come in around £120-200 dependant on where you go.

What products were used on the detail?

[steve_70]

And what products would you use for a winter prep? I was going to do a little trial and error detailing with my work car today but the wax n polish was frozen!!!! Was going to give it a light cut with megs 80 or 83 using the DA followed by AG srp and then hand apply collinite 915

IMO, for a winter prep you cant get much better than Colinite (Fk1000p, is an alternative).

I am using Colinite 845 (same as 476 but in liquid form not paste) and will be using it on Sevy's.

Alternatives are Jeffs Wekstatt Acryllic which used before as a winter protection and has good durability and can be topped up nice and easy in this cold weather with the Jeffs Gloss which is a QD/Sray Sealant top up.

Again, SRP is much underated and good product choice, personally I use Valet Pro Achilles Prep / Jeffs Prime in place where would have used SRP.

However, if your doing a paint correction with some megs then you could probably skip the SRP and go staright to LSP. Reason I say that is that you dont need and swirl correction/masking/filling (from the SRP) as you should have achived that via the megs stage. So, SRP would give you some paint cleaning (chemical not really abrasive by hand) and a pre-wax cleanse but you could just get the paint clean and prep'd with an IPA wipedown; and save the SRP step.

If wasn't going to do any machine correction then deff would use SRP (jeffs Prime etc) to give a one-step hit of polish/cleanse/filler/seal and a winner in this weather. I feel IMO SRP is a bit redundant if doing a machine correction, but depends on your LSP if it has a pre-wax base layer that may improve durability of the wax i.e. Jeffs prime is designed as a baselayer for Jeffs Acryllic, lays down a good base.

[steve_70]

What products were used on the detail?

Jeffs Prime as Pre-Wax cleaner and base layer then Blackfire Sealant and Blackfire Carnuba wax topper if I remember correctly from original thread.

Is a winner combo IMO on the darker colours

[lengster1]

LSP ?

[steve_70]

LSP ?

Sorry.... Detailers talk in acronyms 'Last Step Product'

"...Waxing, whether it's with a Carnauba Wax or Synthetic Sealant, is your "Last Step Product" in detailing your car. This step will not only protect your finish from the elements, it will also add depth, gloss and shine to your paint...."


http://paintcarendetailing.com/wax.html

Also the below, thanks to Polished Bliss...

Once cleaned and polished, painted surfaces require protection against the elements in order to preserve the long-term quality of the finish. Protection comes in the form of natural carnuba waxes, synthetic sealants, and products that combine the two. Your choice of protection (commonly referred to as last step product) can dramatically affect the appearance of your car, as last step products typically offer varying degrees of gloss, reflectivity, slickness and durability. In this guide, we will define protection and how to measure it, describe different types of last step product and show how they can affect the appearance of paint, and finally demonstrate how to apply last step products.

What is protection? Protection may be defined as an invisible barrier that sits on the surface of your paint and protects it against the elements. By elements, we mean water (which is the most powerful natural solvent on the planet), UV radiation, dust and grime, industrial fallout, tree sap, bug remains, bird droppings, etc. Any protection you apply to your paint, whether it be a wax or a sealant, or even a combination of the two, is subject to chemical and physical erosion by the elements. As such, it gets gradually worn away over time, necessitating reapplication if a high level of protection is to be maintained. Some forms of protection, i.e. carnuba waxes, also naturally evaporate from painted surfaces, meaning they lose their ability to protect more rapidly than other types of last step product.....

....The same effect can often be achieved by layering carnuba wax over a synthetic sealant. The thinking here is that the sealant forms a highly durable base coat and the wax endows the finish with glossiness and warmth. In our experience this works well, but you have to be careful when it comes to layering products. Generally speaking, carnuba wax can be applied over amino-functional and acrylic resins without any problem, but problems can arise when it comes to layering carnuba wax over polymer-based sealants. In some cases, this may lead to the finish becoming cloudy, necessitating the complete removal of all wax and sealant layers before starting over again. Under no circumstances should a synthetic sealant be layered over a carnuba wax. The reasons for this are twofold. Firstly, sealants will not bond effectively to carnuba wax, meaning that they will be easily eroded away. Secondly, if you layer a sealant over a wax, the wax will not be able to evaporate freely. In time, this may cause your finish to become cloudy and dull. If you are unsure about what can and can't be layered in terms of waxes and sealants, please contact us and we will be happy to advise you accordingly.

So far we have discussed how carnuba wax and synthetic sealants affect the appearance of paint mainly in terms of gloss, richness and reflectivity. However, some paint finishes have a complicating factor, namely metallic or pearlescent flakes. Under dull conditions, the flake may be hardly noticeable, but when the sun comes out, the flake can be made to explode out of the paint… providing you use the right products. In our experience, carnuba wax tends to mute metallic and pearlescent flakes, limiting the sparkle on sunny days. It is far better to use a pure sealant on such finishes, and restrict yourself to a top coat of a good quality carnuba wax only once you have applied several coats of sealant (or better still leave the wax on the shelf). The same goes for blended last step products - they too tend to mute metallic and pearlescent flakes, and are best avoided.

[irvind]

Dear lord, it's like watching paint dry!!