Anyone here changed their clutch switch?

[audi_do_dat_den]

Made a discovery....
Heres a strange thing, second new switch fitted and both switches fitted differently... one with the plunger pushed and one twisted into place with the plunger extended...
Still no CC but i noticed on VCDS in engine block 01, Group 066, on the switch bin bits section, that relaxed it reads 1100, and when the clutch is dipped by an inch, the value changes to 1000.... and then near the full stroke, it changes back to 1100....???
So while driving, i barely pressed the clutch and hit the CC button.... and the CC comes on... works fine if the pedal is pressed!!??
So.... any VCDS gurus out there that can advise?
Both new switches behaved the same way... and both were installed in different ways..... so is there a problem with the switches?
A fundamental design flaw or have i just shagged more switches

[voidopolis]

are these switches a one time install / use? my lower clutch switch was working fine, but I had taken it out because I thought it needed to be changed - when it was the upper switch that I needed to replace...

so, i have two lower switches now. neither work as I depress the clutch to start the car - the car wont start at all. the switch is making contact with the clutch, but I still cant start the car.

[MikeFish]

The lower switch doesn't need to be depressed to start the car. At a minimum, you have to move the clutch enough to open the top switch. If the bottom switch is not made it means you have to keep the start button pressed until the car starts rather than the normal operation of press and let go.
However I think with the switch removed it behaved differently to a broken switch.

[voidopolis]

this is a US car - so, I just have a key to turn to start the car. I'll check the top switch again... and of course I'm trying to check the codes that its throwing with VCDS and my laptop power-supply died...

[audi_do_dat_den]

Does it normally require you to press the clutch before turning the key to start the engine?
As Mike pointed out, the combination of the two switches is required as part of the interlock/inhibit for starting on the european model....
You can 'jumper' the lower switch plug with a short piece of wire, then suitably wrapped in tape etc.
That should allow the engine to start.
They are a one shot switch and once removed, theyre no good.

[voidopolis]

Yes, it requires the clutch to be pressed in to start the car.

I did have luck removing them and installing them again. I guess I didn't have them in the right position when I did it the first time. On the plus side, these seem to be reusable. Thanks for the help!

[jujututu]

My apologies for hijacking this post but my problem sounds very similar...

I recently noticed that my cruise control had stopped working but the start button was still only requiring a single press to start the car. After a bit of research I assumed the clutch switch was at fault (I have to be honest and say that I didn't even realise there were two) and picked up one at my local stealers on Wednesday with the intention of fitting it today. When I went to start my car on Thursday, I had to keep my finger on the start button. That's ok I thought - that's because of the dodgy switch.

Today I fitted the replacement switch (Upper, 7H0 927 189). I read a few forums and FAQ's and fitted it by depressing the clutch, twisting it fully in to place in its housing and then releasing the clutch (unlike some of the instructions that I have read and, assume, are for the original switch). Anyway, when releasing the clutch I heard the same crunching/ratchet sound that audi_do_dat_den mentioned at the start of this post. Once all the housing was back in place, I gave the start button a quick press and yes, it started without having to hold it down. So, surely the cruise control would now be working? Nope. So, my questions are...

How did replacing the upper switch resolve an issue which I thought the lower switch controlled? And, what else could I check with regards to the cruise control? Did I knacker the switch when it crunched? If I did, how are you supposed to fit it??

[audi_do_dat_den]

Hello mate, you couldnt possibly hijack this thread, its what makes this forum so valuable.

Anyway, what youre saying sounds like a mirror of my issue!
My cruise control wasnt working after fitting a new switch and ive since solved it....
Heres what i found-
1st new switch installed and fitted exactly as you described (press pedal and twist into position and release clutch etc).... then it went crunch.... no cruise control etc....

Bought another new switch 7HO, and fitted slightly differently - pressed pedal down, inserted the switch and then before twisting, i gently pressed the plunger in with my finger.
By doing that, i could feel some sort of mechanical resistance and kept it at that point before fully twisting into position.
Then released the pedal, and as the pedal relaxed, there was a clunk rather than a crunch... anyway, felt better but still had no cruise control....
So.... after a little checking, i found the switch wasnt adjusted fully and then gently pulled the pedal up by a further 3 - 5 mm which did make a bit of a crunch sound....
After that, the cruise control now works fine and all seems well.
You could try pulling the pedal up further, and see if it gives any.... but you might well need to get another switch as i did.
I dismantled the 1st switch and found some bits of broken plastic inside which led me to confirm id shagged it.... but i discovered that it does have a ratcheted portion on the plunger for self adjustment..... therefore theyre not much different to the old type and still require final self adjustment.
Plus, they are also a one-shot single install type, and will be no good after removing.

As for your other question, i suppose the two switches combine in the circuit on some sort of 'ladder logic' for the inhibit/interlock on the engine start sequence.....
I busted both upper and lower switches, and even after jumpering the lower switch terminals, i still had to keep my finger on the button to start.... but as soon as id changed both switches, the engine started with one touch....

My head hurts now.....
Hope thats useful mate, i will offer any advice i can if you get stuck.

[obikaii]

Fitted both new clutch switches on Tuesday,it was so easy,all I did was go to my local dealer,buy the switches,then take the car to my local indie(which is half a mile up the road)& get him to fit them,there was no way I was gonna try such a fidily job,I would of broken the switches,then probably smashed something else in a fit of rage,this was definitely the cheapest & easiest way to do it.

[jujututu]

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated

It's in at QST soon for a possible airbag replacement (light is on, won't reset and apparently not the usual cut out the connector block and connect wires fix, unfortunately) so I think I'll let them sort it out.

Cheers

[Baz999]

How much are these switches?
I have no cruise control and have to hold down the start button but no warning light, so I might replace both

Baz

[MikeFish]

About £17 each from Audi.

[Baz999]

Thanks for that, not too bad from For an oem part

[FaisalJ]

Sorry to bring up a slightly older post, but wanted to clarify the correct procedure for replacing the upper switch? 6Q0 927 189

The ELSA how-to that Sam posted says to leave the clutch pedal in normal position, pull out the plunger and just twist in position. Is that right?

Lots of reference to pushing the plunger in before twisting has me confused, is that referring to the lower switch?

Any help much appreciated!

[MikeFish]

Yes from memory the top switch was just twist out, unplug, connect plug to new switch, insert and twist. No pushing of the pedal during installation.

The lower switch needs the clutch pressed during installation.