The vast majority of dealers have proven to be inept and/or incompetent at repairing RS4s - so I have NO hesitation at all in telling a dealer they don't know what they're doing, so long as I reckon I can prove it (and I always have proved it...).RS4_Nick wrote:Blimey. Telling the dealer how to do their job isn't really something I'd consider at this stage.
Front of car detatched from rear
- PetrolDave
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Audi franchises don't always have an option and the tools are expensive, the relationship between Audi AG, Audi UK and franchised dealers is not that symbiotic. Don't be afraid to ask. So long you are not rude about it it at least lets them know you know about your car and not to pull the wool over your eyes.RS4_Nick wrote:Blimey. Telling the dealer how to do their job isn't really something I'd consider at this stage. From a customer perspective, Audi is Audi and they should all have the corrrect tools and knowhow to complete this warranty work.
I picked mine up from the body shop yesterday and they know me well there because of warranty paintwork issues with a front bumper they have had in on 4 occassions now. There is a degree of mutual repsect there now to the point that they give me discount on quotes for work I wask for now and got a few things done (spare set of wing mirrors painted from blue back to silver and machine polishing scratches out) FOC.
Petrol Dave / P G
Thanks for your help. I hope you didn't think I was being ignorant, I just thought they would all have the same standard procedure when it comes to major issues like this. I can understand there will be vast differences betewen dealers however.
I'll definately take your advice from here. I'll mention the re-pressurisation procedure as well as asking them to re-check for any further leaks. I just hope they renewed all the bits they said they did in the first place.
Will let you know how I get on. Cheers
Thanks for your help. I hope you didn't think I was being ignorant, I just thought they would all have the same standard procedure when it comes to major issues like this. I can understand there will be vast differences betewen dealers however.
I'll definately take your advice from here. I'll mention the re-pressurisation procedure as well as asking them to re-check for any further leaks. I just hope they renewed all the bits they said they did in the first place.
Will let you know how I get on. Cheers
Is there a definitive check for DRC failure?
When I bought my car in Feb I knew about the DRC failures and had them check the shocks before I bought it. They claimed that all 4 needed replacing (said by the salesman so could have been mistaken) I then had to wait for parts to come into stock before they were changed and finally they claimed to have changed only a pair of shocks (I never received a receipt for this work and as it was paid for by sales/warranty I did not ask for one)
Just after the switch the car felt a lot better, much stiffer in roll and less dive under braking. Now after a few thousand miles I have noticed a drop off in the roll stiffness and the car is pitching a lot more on turn in than I think it should.
I have yet to call Audi to have them take a look but what black and white test can be done to prove it is in fact faulty again?
I am not adverse to getting my hands dirty and stripping down the car to some extent to check it myself ... but I can only do that if I know what I am looking for. I have had a brief look under the car without jacking it up and can't see any obvious leaks on the shocks (and no obvious signs that they are nearly new either!!)
Summary -
In the same boat, DRC changed recently and now I suspect it is broken again - want a method of checking that is clear cut rather than subjective and based on "feeling"
When I bought my car in Feb I knew about the DRC failures and had them check the shocks before I bought it. They claimed that all 4 needed replacing (said by the salesman so could have been mistaken) I then had to wait for parts to come into stock before they were changed and finally they claimed to have changed only a pair of shocks (I never received a receipt for this work and as it was paid for by sales/warranty I did not ask for one)
Just after the switch the car felt a lot better, much stiffer in roll and less dive under braking. Now after a few thousand miles I have noticed a drop off in the roll stiffness and the car is pitching a lot more on turn in than I think it should.
I have yet to call Audi to have them take a look but what black and white test can be done to prove it is in fact faulty again?
I am not adverse to getting my hands dirty and stripping down the car to some extent to check it myself ... but I can only do that if I know what I am looking for. I have had a brief look under the car without jacking it up and can't see any obvious leaks on the shocks (and no obvious signs that they are nearly new either!!)
Summary -
In the same boat, DRC changed recently and now I suspect it is broken again - want a method of checking that is clear cut rather than subjective and based on "feeling"
Don't think there is any real way of telling even when a freind put his in for a service and as for them to check the system was ok as he was heading to the west coast the dealer cheack it but did say ther is no real way of checking that the system is just about to fail and shock horrror it failed big time but luckyly he was only a few miles from home ( but i have issuse with this dealer and find there knowlage sketcky at best i would have thought they could have checked the pressure ect)
2018 B9 RS4 Navarra Blue
2013 B8 RS4 Sepang Blue
2007 B7 RS4 Avant Sprint Blue
2001 B5 RS4 Nogaro Blue
1998 B5 S4 Avant Kingfisher Blue
1993 B4 S2 Avant laser Red
2013 B8 RS4 Sepang Blue
2007 B7 RS4 Avant Sprint Blue
2001 B5 RS4 Nogaro Blue
1998 B5 S4 Avant Kingfisher Blue
1993 B4 S2 Avant laser Red
There isn't a definitive test unfortunately Mike_Bike and by the sounds of what you are describing yours too may be a result of pressure loss rather than a shock failure. Given it is a hydraulic system and needs pressurisation its not one of those things I would tend to try and pull apart either. It is fluid after all and all fluids change their properties over time, hydraulic fluid becomes more dense as it breaks down and losses volume thus pressure. Couple that with the shocks that have a degree of natural wastage (the dried residue you can occassionally see on the sleeves of the shocks)
It is a shame that Audi charge for a pressure test but if you do get this do ask for the test results, they are obliged to give them to you. Problem is most people don't so they invariably don't bother.
It is a shame that Audi charge for a pressure test but if you do get this do ask for the test results, they are obliged to give them to you. Problem is most people don't so they invariably don't bother.
- PetrolDave
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- Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:28 am
- Location: Southampton, Hampshire UK
It's hard to believe that Basingstoke Audi and Camberley Audi are part of the same dealer group - shows what a difference the people can make.Oak wrote:I agree that Audi dealers should have the tools!! Took mine to Basingstoke Audi a few months after I bought it from them, took them 6 days to do the DRC, no courtesy car not even a lift home. My last visit there.............
Update.
After a nice break I returned to work today dropping my car off at local dealer. I was called just before lunch to be told no faults with the new shocks/DRC could be found and that pressure was ok.
I went straight back (just over the road from my office) and took the mechanic out and demonstated the problem - also allowing him to drive and do the same test. He agreed it didn't feel right. They're keeping it overnight to do some further investigations and I'll update tomorrow when I've heard more.
In the meantime I have a rather nice A5 loan car in white
After a nice break I returned to work today dropping my car off at local dealer. I was called just before lunch to be told no faults with the new shocks/DRC could be found and that pressure was ok.
I went straight back (just over the road from my office) and took the mechanic out and demonstated the problem - also allowing him to drive and do the same test. He agreed it didn't feel right. They're keeping it overnight to do some further investigations and I'll update tomorrow when I've heard more.
In the meantime I have a rather nice A5 loan car in white

Nick, did they say what the pressure was? I have heard of dealers saying 12Bar was advised as being OK but in reality it is not, it should be 14Bar or perhaps up to 16Bar.RS4_Nick wrote:Update.
After a nice break I returned to work today dropping my car off at local dealer. I was called just before lunch to be told no faults with the new shocks/DRC could be found and that pressure was ok.
I went straight back (just over the road from my office) and took the mechanic out and demonstated the problem - also allowing him to drive and do the same test. He agreed it didn't feel right. They're keeping it overnight to do some further investigations and I'll update tomorrow when I've heard more.
In the meantime I have a rather nice A5 loan car in white
If 12 bar is the minimum,and 16 bar is the maximum/optimum (my car is running 15) it sounds daft that they would not pressurise it to the range of 14-15 for the pressure is not going to go up by itself, is it? The only way is down.P_G wrote:12 Bar is minimum tolerance and as such would mean a dealer would not adjust it or deem it as an 'issue'. It should however be 14-16Bar.

P_G is there any evidence of this which I can point out to dealer? Otherwise I'll just be reciting "words from an internet forum" - with all due respect to you.
I do appreciate your help.
I really hope this gets sorted soon. The loan A5 felt so stable tonight on a run to my parents house and back. Wish my RS felt as taught.
I do appreciate your help.
I really hope this gets sorted soon. The loan A5 felt so stable tonight on a run to my parents house and back. Wish my RS felt as taught.
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