Buying a cat d rs4
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pics please
993 Gt2 - Mid life crisis
RS6 b6 Avant - Black, ceramics..wip (sold)
RS4 b7 Avant - Mugello Blue, ceramics, Exclusive interior (Sold)
Datsun - Cherry turbo, sunroof...going strong..(sold)
RS4 b7 Avant- Sprint Blue, Ceramics, Milltek (sold)
RS4 B5 -(Disappeared)
A1 - Sportline Audi Sport Edition(Sold)
Q7 - Family wagon (RIP)
RS6 b6 Avant - Black, ceramics..wip (sold)
RS4 b7 Avant - Mugello Blue, ceramics, Exclusive interior (Sold)
Datsun - Cherry turbo, sunroof...going strong..(sold)
RS4 b7 Avant- Sprint Blue, Ceramics, Milltek (sold)
RS4 B5 -(Disappeared)
A1 - Sportline Audi Sport Edition(Sold)
Q7 - Family wagon (RIP)
"Driving down the road and a dog ran out"...no way was that caused by a dog lol
any way, looks OK, slightly off topic, that was spoke on a forum somewhere else, can you still drive a car (CAT D) that has been involved in a fatal accident, i mean the persons sole could be embedded into the machine.....any one see that car film? any way back on topic!
any way, looks OK, slightly off topic, that was spoke on a forum somewhere else, can you still drive a car (CAT D) that has been involved in a fatal accident, i mean the persons sole could be embedded into the machine.....any one see that car film? any way back on topic!
Money can't buy you love, but it can buy you a well sorted racecar
Looks like a easy repair , i bet the damage to the windscreen was done by the passinger side air bag going off .I've got a 56 RANGEROVER Sport with the same damage to fix this week .g
Unit 20
0151 3366888
The northwest's only dedicated 'RS' repair centre.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/unit-20/104343529619713
0151 3366888
The northwest's only dedicated 'RS' repair centre.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/unit-20/104343529619713
pictures at last
Here is some pictures guys,sorry for the delay. its advirtised on piston heads,if any 1 is intrested.
RE: pix 4
looks very nice.
Personally, as others have said already, buying / owning a cat c or d is not a problem as long as the repair is documented and the information is provided.
Cars are damaged all the time and not recorded. Bumper scrapes, door dings, windscreens, etc, even as far as new front ends, doors, boots etc.
All cat d means it is not economical to repair at a main dealer using their parts and labour costs. Cat c is the same but using non main dealer labour rates. Anything with a severely twisted or damaged body shell could be a cat c if only a new shell is required, but could well become a cat b if the rest of the damage means too much is damaged to consider a safe rebuild. cat b means it cannot be put back on the road and is only fit for breaking. Cat a has to be crushed.
As long as the car is straight, drives okay, and has undergone an engineers report (akin to an MoT) to prove roadworthiness, there should be nothing to worry about.
Incidentally, I was told that the cat classification can be removed from cars/bikes once repaired and inspected. This is especially true if reshelled. I've never tried this though as the cars / bikes I've had weren't worth the hassle.
Personally, as others have said already, buying / owning a cat c or d is not a problem as long as the repair is documented and the information is provided.
Cars are damaged all the time and not recorded. Bumper scrapes, door dings, windscreens, etc, even as far as new front ends, doors, boots etc.
All cat d means it is not economical to repair at a main dealer using their parts and labour costs. Cat c is the same but using non main dealer labour rates. Anything with a severely twisted or damaged body shell could be a cat c if only a new shell is required, but could well become a cat b if the rest of the damage means too much is damaged to consider a safe rebuild. cat b means it cannot be put back on the road and is only fit for breaking. Cat a has to be crushed.
As long as the car is straight, drives okay, and has undergone an engineers report (akin to an MoT) to prove roadworthiness, there should be nothing to worry about.
Incidentally, I was told that the cat classification can be removed from cars/bikes once repaired and inspected. This is especially true if reshelled. I've never tried this though as the cars / bikes I've had weren't worth the hassle.
Too many toys, not enough time
RE: pix 4
[quote="JohnW"]looks very nice.
Personally, as others have said already, buying / owning a cat c or d is not a problem as long as the repair is documented and the information is provided.
Cars are damaged all the time and not recorded. Bumper scrapes, door dings, windscreens, etc, even as far as new front ends, doors, boots etc.
All cat d means it is not economical to repair at a main dealer using their parts and labour costs. Cat c is the same but using non main dealer labour rates. Anything with a severely twisted or damaged body shell could be a cat c if only a new shell is required, but could well become a cat b if the rest of the damage means too much is damaged to consider a safe rebuild. cat b means it cannot be put back on the road and is only fit for breaking. Cat a has to be crushed.
As long as the car is straight, drives okay, and has undergone an engineers report (akin to an MoT) to prove roadworthiness, there should be nothing to worry about.
Incidentally, I was told that the cat classification can be removed from cars/bikes once repaired and inspected. This is especially true if reshelled. Ithanks for a good reply mate, you are right about what your saying. so long as the job is done right, there should be no problem.
Personally, as others have said already, buying / owning a cat c or d is not a problem as long as the repair is documented and the information is provided.
Cars are damaged all the time and not recorded. Bumper scrapes, door dings, windscreens, etc, even as far as new front ends, doors, boots etc.
All cat d means it is not economical to repair at a main dealer using their parts and labour costs. Cat c is the same but using non main dealer labour rates. Anything with a severely twisted or damaged body shell could be a cat c if only a new shell is required, but could well become a cat b if the rest of the damage means too much is damaged to consider a safe rebuild. cat b means it cannot be put back on the road and is only fit for breaking. Cat a has to be crushed.
As long as the car is straight, drives okay, and has undergone an engineers report (akin to an MoT) to prove roadworthiness, there should be nothing to worry about.
Incidentally, I was told that the cat classification can be removed from cars/bikes once repaired and inspected. This is especially true if reshelled. Ithanks for a good reply mate, you are right about what your saying. so long as the job is done right, there should be no problem.
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