AMD

[S4Player]

<beep> myself? Eh? Mate I've had to read your <beep> for years your <beep> clueless and highly annoying. The <beep> jhm brake discs warped its as clear cut as that. I had the first hand experience of it you didn't. Anything else you'd like to add on how your right and I'm wrong ? Away back to audi revolution and run your drag strip data your good at that

[edge]

Id be inclinded to listen to Danny, I mean he does have a small amout of the expierence with RS4s

[S4Player]

Sorry guys this isn't who knows best situation its a case of 'I have first hand experience' of it and you don't situation. If it were any other brand other than jhm we wouldn't be in this situation I know that much.

[redrsr]

Id be inclinded to listen to Danny, I mean he does have a small amout of the expierence with RS4s

Sorry Edge, but you're on an even smaller Island than us, you're opinion counts for diddly squat too

[sakimano]

<beep> myself? Eh? Mate I've had to read your <beep> for years your <beep> clueless and highly annoying. The <beep> jhm brake discs warped its as clear cut as that. I had the first hand experience of it you didn't. Anything else you'd like to add on how your right and I'm wrong ? Away back to audi revolution and run your drag strip data your good at that

I actually owned JHM brake discs and had no problems. Funny how that is. When I got them I used new pads, and bedded them in properly. No trouble.

I ran them for two years and 30,000 miles . I have definitely got more experience than you, so toss on 'mate' . I also know ten people personally who have had them and had no problems. One local fellow had them and used ceramic pads that he swapped over from his own rotors. This caused problems. A good re-bed helped though.

But hey, keep on being angry. You know best (lol). I think you're most qualified to talk about buying multiple superchargers until one works. Stick to that.

[S4Player]

I ain't angry I'm actually quite a happy chap I just think myself and the vast majority on here think your a bit of P rick ! Did you run them on your s4? That's fantastic mate im happy you suffered no issues at all. Btw mines were bedded in at Mrc they must have done it wrong

[manual_daniel]

I ain't angry I'm actually quite a happy chap I just think myself and the vast majority on here think your a bit of P rick ! Did you run them on your s4? That's fantastic mate im happy you suffered no issues at all. Btw mines were bedded in at Mrc they must have done it wrong

How did MRC bed the brakes in? On the road? Sorry for the off topic question but I am having terrible judder with my brakes (new discs and pads in June). It's driving me insane and even if I got new pad and discs I don't know where I could bed them in properly around here.

Thanks and if the off topic question pisses anyone off then I will happily piss off

[edge]

Sorry Edge, but you're on an even smaller Island than us, you're opinion counts for diddly squat too

I know right, sure if we were still under british rule my opinion would be considered.....

[sakimano]

How did MRC bed the brakes in? On the road? Sorry for the off topic question but I am having terrible judder with my brakes (new discs and pads in June). It's driving me insane and even if I got new pad and discs I don't know where I could bed them in properly around here.

Thanks and if the off topic question pisses anyone off then I will happily piss off

You have to find a quiet Road where you can go from 60-10 or 80-10 a few times without stopping and then allow yourself to drive for five minutes without touching the brakes for cool down.

Here are a couple of sources of information...

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-suppo ... pad-bed-in

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/tec ... ?techid=85

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Here's the zeckhausen instructions...

From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.

The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.

[manual_daniel]

Thanks very much for all the information, I have stamped on the brakes 3 or 4 times from 130 KPH down to 20KPH hoping to clear it but all I noticed was a bit of fade. This looks slightly more scientific. It looks like I have some reading to do.

[sakimano]

It's hard to do somewhere with a long enough stretch of road...without that road having people on it, since you will effectively be looking like a <beep>.

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Source?

My information was from Stop Tech, one of the largest brake companies in the world, and was written by a race engineer.

YAWN

<fx on>wipes coco pops from eyes<fx off>

That's some pile of steaming BS.

For the record, I think you'll find that Continental Teves/ATE is the largest brake company in the world. I doubt Stop Tech make it into the top 20 in the world!

[sync24]

For what it's worth - I had very bad judder after spa - I went home took my wheels off and gave the discs are good clear out with an air gun [cleared all the holes ETC] and my brake judder went completely.

[SoaRS4]

Sorry mates, but brake judder is not from warped disks. Saki is right. Proper bedding at the start, plus getting off your brakes after they've been applied hard (so the pads don't burn material onto the rotors) will prevent judder.

Once pad material is burned in, the composition of the rotor itself can change and hardens. This ends up as judder, as the softer material of the rotor wears. Changing pads at this point is useless. Even a very small difference in rotor thickness can be easily felt in the brake pedal.

Only solution is to skim the rotors (not advisable/recommended on the RS4), change them out, or live with it. Skimming hard, burned-in parts of the rotor is not easy - ask any brake expert.