Has anyone 'upgraded' to the 2010+ RNSe?

[PetrolDave]

Have you made any progress with the MMI Dave?

MMI? I guess you mean AMI?

Nope - only got back home in the wee small hours of Saturday after a week abroad, and it's chucking it down here today so I doubt I'll get to look at it this weekend.

[Shadow6ix]

AMI, yes, slip of the finger sorry. Looking foward to seeing the outcome, if any.

[Shadow6ix]

http://youtu.be/eMyKkVyVgDs ??

[Shadow6ix]

VCDS arrived this morning, (although it's running hideously slowly, I can't think it's meant to be like that) and new RNS-E arrives tomorrow from ebay land I hope. I'd very much appreciate anyone that's able to give me some pointers on re-coding for the new unit!

[sakimano]

VCDS arrived this morning, (although it's running hideously slowly, I can't think it's meant to be like that) and new RNS-E arrives tomorrow from ebay land I hope. I'd very much appreciate anyone that's able to give me some pointers on re-coding for the new unit!

what unit do you have now? Since you were asking about a faceplate change, I guess you have the original RNSe from the 2006-2008 RS4? If so I don't think you'll need any coding changed. PetrolDave mentioned a straight swap of the connections only I believe.

Should be a breeze. My only tip would be to get a cloth or something in the radio removal keys when you pull it out. They're metal keys with big circles on them so you can hook your fingers in to pull them out, but they're sharp as hell...so getting a rod or stick through them, or just a thin cloth around your fingers that go in the holes when you pull and you'll be ok. Otherwise, everything in the back is a breeze. Reinstalling the unit requires you to give it a pretty good, steady amount of pushing pressure to lock it back in. I thought something was wrong with mine, I needed to push it in so hard. It's one of those things where you're scared of breaking something delicate so you don't quite get it in...then you give it some man strength and it snicks right into place.

[PetrolDave]

I'd very much appreciate anyone that's able to give me some pointers on re-coding for the new unit!

The Ross-Tech wiki is your friend http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... 28RNS-E%29

Just read the coding from your current RNS-E and make the new one the same is a good starting point.

[Shadow6ix]

That's brilliant chaps, thankyou. That wiki makes a bit more sense now I've played with VCDS a little. Slow performance was due to a cock-up with the USB drivers, sorted now.

[Shadow6ix]

Edit... It is a copied disc, that's come with this thing I'm sure. Annoying.

[Shadow6ix]

Wow, REALLY struggling with those screws on the screen

[Shadow6ix]

Well, it's done. Could NOT get the screws on the old unit to come out. Ruined every small screw driver head that I had, they wouldn't budge. I'm guessing because they've been locked in for a few years, because the ones on the new unit came out without too much bother. So the faceplate was removed by making certain 'adjustments' to the frame to release the screen, and the rest was straightforward.

I did however just find that the unit is staying powered even with the key out of the ignition. Any ideas?

[andre3k]

^ Isn't that how OE operates. Im sure mine (standard not upgraded) can operate without a key in the ignition

[merlinus98]

...
I did however just find that the unit is staying powered even with the key out of the ignition. Any ideas?

not a specialist, but I had the same thing (unit not going on when car powered, started manually... it stops after 30mn, stopping the car, it stays on).
There was a faulty connection on the CAN bus, which has been refitted correctly: what I have understood is that the CAN bus send orders (on/off/switch a function...) to the different units (as the RNSE in our case).

PS: sorry for my bad English, I'm French !

[Shadow6ix]

Well, I wasn't aware that it could do that if that's a feature. I've been out in it to get a big old memory card and it's working normally again now, on and off with ignition. It's all good! Screen is lovely!

[Shadow6ix]

This guide was invaluable by the way, save some searching...

http://www.lamboweb.com/Repairs_Section ... _Plate.htm

[PetrolDave]

I did however just find that the unit is staying powered even with the key out of the ignition. Any ideas?

As others have said that's 100% correct, Audi head units don't have any switched power feed only permanent power and they switch themselves off based on CAN bus messages and timings.

The until stays on until either you lock the car or 30 minutes after you remove the key from the ignition.

However, when you remove the key, unless you're in a phone call the unit goes into a "black screen" mode until one of the above happens.

And because it has permanent power you can turn it on at any time when the ignition is off just by pressing and holding the on/off button - when it will stay on for 30 minutes.