The Revolution Guinea Pig

[PJC]

Can I volunteer to be the Sarf of England one too.

[Revolution]

no problem.......

just dont forget your passport next time you come up.... and i will lend you my translation book:D

[stu]

yepper
and warm it up as fast as possible without abusing it...

That's beginning to make sense to me Arthur. Have you got an established/accepted way of doing this? What's a good balance?

I only ask this as I think (if anything) I might be warming up my car too slow: driving around in 30-50 speed limits in fairly sedate fashion, using 5th and 6th preferentially and almost never going over 4k until 70 degrees. Only the full range 80C+.

I get my engine up the 8k several times a journey so I know I'm doing that bit right.

Am I killing my car with kindness?

[PJC]

no problem.......

just dont forget your passport next time you come up.... and i will lend you my translation book:D

I have a Geordie mate so no worries about the translation.

[adsgreen]

yepper
and warm it up as fast as possible without abusing it...

That's beginning to make sense to me Arthur. Have you got an established/accepted way of doing this? What's a good balance?

I only ask this as I think (if anything) I might be warming up my car too slow: driving around in 30-50 speed limits in fairly sedate fashion, using 5th and 6th preferentially and almost never going over 4k until 70 degrees. Only the full range 80C+.

I get my engine up the 8k several times a journey so I know I'm doing that bit right.

Am I killing my car with kindness?

Keep it above 2k rpm but below 4k is my general guide.
I treat engine warming phase as if I was running in a new car. So whilst you don't want manic revs with a cold engine you also don't want too low so that you end up loading the engine which isn't great at the best of times but esp when oil isn't offering as much protection.

God reason why sw0090 revs the car up to 1800 for 30 secs.

[ArthurPE]

yepper
and warm it up as fast as possible without abusing it...

That's beginning to make sense to me Arthur. Have you got an established/accepted way of doing this? What's a good balance?

I only ask this as I think (if anything) I might be warming up my car too slow: driving around in 30-50 speed limits in fairly sedate fashion, using 5th and 6th preferentially and almost never going over 4k until 70 degrees. Only the full range 80C+.

I get my engine up the 8k several times a journey so I know I'm doing that bit right.

Am I killing my car with kindness?

I run mine very 'soft' only for a minute or two...then run it >2500 and <6000 (Audi says 7000 is OK), under light load/very slow and partial throttle, and not for sustained times in the upper range...
I use all the gears and run slowly from shift up to 6000...and have no issues holding 3000-3500 in lower gears, just avoid lugging the engine (torque output < required load)
warming up the oil with a modern synthetic is not a huge issue as it was with conventional
in fact I could drive across town to work...10-15 minutes and 5 miles
or on the highway, 10-12 minutes and 10 miles, I use the highway becasue the engine warms up faster, and goes into closed loop, better fine tuning of fuel delivery
in fact going the 10 miles vs the 5 only uses a bit more fuel since the MPG is almost twice as good!
I think a lot of deposits happen in the first minutes of operation upon cold start...over fueled and the residue accumulates on the valves
I think the recent SW changes try to alleviate this by better fuel metering (hence less smoke/fumes at start-up, as noticed by many)

[2manytoys]

I would have liked to see a clean engine with original manifold dyno'ed then the PP IM and dyno'ed. I can't understand why you PP an IM and leave the carbon there. I'd say the PP in this case didn't do anything (because of the carbon) and the variation is the slightly colder air temps and higher pressure.

Did you log timing or anything else during your Dyno runs?

[P_G]

The Dastek road factors for temperature and pressure variations so the results are down to the PP because as you will see, ramp rate, speed, gearing, fuel and most other factors were consistent. On the road it also has more mid range torque which was evident last Sunday. But in the grand scheme of things running against a number of other RS4's on that day the difference 10 or 20bhp is going to make is negligible compared to driver ability.

Given the car was already doing 400PS at 85,000 miles it was my decision to do the PP first because 20PS (5%) is neither here nor there and looking at the carbon content when it was open the consensus was it wasn't that bad. I'd be quite happy to leave the car as is now however if I have the money I may have it cleaned purely for the purposes of showing what gains there could be by doing this alone (albeit there will be a factor in that result as a consequence of the port / polish) because for those who still believe carbon is the main issue it isn't , it is the way these engines are warmed up everytim they are used, frequency of use and importantly how it is used.

For those carbon build up doom mongers my car should be according to them on a scrap heap now or with a new engine but the pictures say it all and yet it still runs 400PS and now with a port polish 412.5PS. So even if the rolling road was 100% accurate I now have 7bhp (1.69%) less than what I should which I probably have lost through a non res- cat back according to certain RS4 owners. £800-1000 every 12 months to clean carbon to maintain 1.69% for me makes no sense whatsoever. If you have the money and inclination to do that then sincerely best of luck to you.

[ArthurPE]

+1

my position has been carbon ~2% in an otherwise properly running engine
a passenger, 500' altitude, 6C temp delta, fuel, etc. each have more impact
the advantages of DI far outweigh the disadvantages
a 4000 lb, awd with high losses, wide tires, mediocre aero, 400+ HP, high gearing 4.11 final drive, etc., gets 24 mpg on the highway and 19 avg town/highway

....because for those who still believe carbon is the main issue it isn't , it is the way these engines are warmed up everytim they are used, frequency of use and importantly how it is used.

For those carbon build up doom mongers my car should be according to them on a scrap heap now or with a new engine but the pictures say it all and yet it still runs 400PS and now with a port polish 412.5PS. So even if the rolling road was 100% accurate I now have 7bhp (1.69%) less than what I should which I probably have lost through a non res- cat back according to certain RS4 owners. £800-1000 every 12 months to clean carbon to maintain 1.69% for me makes no sense whatsoever. If you have the money and inclination to do that then sincerely best of luck to you.