Very well spec'd black saloon with ceramics. Ad says ss+ but looks quite high on the rearRS4KILLA wrote:http://www.autoprestigehouse.autoweb1.co.uk/
try these lads have loads of b7 rs4
Buying A New RS4
Audi rs6 c6 avant - hopefully coming soon
Audi A3 black edition
E9x 330 msport convertible - going soon
Defender 110 utility
RS4 Avant - gone
Audi A3 black edition
E9x 330 msport convertible - going soon
Defender 110 utility
RS4 Avant - gone
If only it was an Avant & 10k milesmarcr wrote:Very well spec'd black saloon with ceramics. Ad says ss+ but looks quite high on the rearRS4KILLA wrote:http://www.autoprestigehouse.autoweb1.co.uk/
try these lads have loads of b7 rs4
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This is my first post so a big hello to everyone (and sorry Zed for hijacking your post!)
I'm pretty much in the same boat as Zed, looking for a saloon, preferably around the £30k mark with lowish miles (20-30k anyway) as this will inevitably be a car I hold on to for a good 3 years or so (family proofing it really as only have a 3dr Golf GT Sport at present).
For the money I want to spend, I'm probably looking at an 06 or 56 (maybe an 07) so will no doubt be out of warranty (except DRC issues right?). If I buy from a dealer, I'll get a year's warranty I understand but what's the deal if I buy from another dealer i.e. can I buy an Audi warranty direct or does it have to be seamless after the initial 3 year warranty, I'm getting myself a bit confused! What I do know is that the Audi warranty is very expensive and like someone else has already mentioned on another post, it's probably best just to 'self insure' isn't it?
I'm hoping the end of March will be a good time to buy just as the registrations change... any further advice would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
I'm pretty much in the same boat as Zed, looking for a saloon, preferably around the £30k mark with lowish miles (20-30k anyway) as this will inevitably be a car I hold on to for a good 3 years or so (family proofing it really as only have a 3dr Golf GT Sport at present).
For the money I want to spend, I'm probably looking at an 06 or 56 (maybe an 07) so will no doubt be out of warranty (except DRC issues right?). If I buy from a dealer, I'll get a year's warranty I understand but what's the deal if I buy from another dealer i.e. can I buy an Audi warranty direct or does it have to be seamless after the initial 3 year warranty, I'm getting myself a bit confused! What I do know is that the Audi warranty is very expensive and like someone else has already mentioned on another post, it's probably best just to 'self insure' isn't it?
I'm hoping the end of March will be a good time to buy just as the registrations change... any further advice would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
AFAIK, the extended warranty has to be purchased prior to the manufacturers warranty expiring, otherwise the car would require a multipoint inspectiom at your cost & rectification of any fault before the new warranty can be purchased.brissleboy wrote:
but what's the deal if I buy from another dealer i.e. can I buy an Audi warranty direct or does it have to be seamless after the initial 3 year warranty, I'm getting myself a bit confused! !
Cheers!
No doubt the experts will correct me if I have got it wrong.
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Buy Fu*k all from them mate, i have had to have the oil cooler, radiator, and a few other small things replaced because i trusted them as a performance garage, trading standards involved at the minute and they have refused to return my clls e mails and recorded letters, you get a useless 3 month warranty which is not worth a fu*k.RS4KILLA wrote:http://www.autoprestigehouse.autoweb1.co.uk/
try these lads have loads of b7 rs4
Mac
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Uh and if you do phone them ask about if the have sorted out the problems with my car yellow RS4, maybe prick thir consience a bit, they are just turning cars over mate without proper checks. no customer service whatsoever.
The car is amazing now after i have everything sorted and it just added £1800 to the price thats all, just be carefull.
Mac
The car is amazing now after i have everything sorted and it just added £1800 to the price thats all, just be carefull.
Mac
Whatever you do, I'd think long and hard about whether you really want a car with ceramics...
Its great to talk about but a disaster if anything happens to them.
IMHO, the even the steel items are the best thing on the car, although be prepared for a bit of "back end squirming" under really heavy braking from high speed...
A multipoint inspection will set you back ~£200.
FWIW.
Its great to talk about but a disaster if anything happens to them.
IMHO, the even the steel items are the best thing on the car, although be prepared for a bit of "back end squirming" under really heavy braking from high speed...
A multipoint inspection will set you back ~£200.
FWIW.
58 C6 RS6 Stage 2+
58 C6 A6 Allroad 2.7 TDi
Previous:
2000 B5 S4 MRC 550 Saloon
2007 B7 RS4 Saloon
1994 S2 Coupe
58 C6 A6 Allroad 2.7 TDi
Previous:
2000 B5 S4 MRC 550 Saloon
2007 B7 RS4 Saloon
1994 S2 Coupe
brissleboy wrote:This is my first post so a big hello to everyone (and sorry Zed for hijacking your post!)
I'm pretty much in the same boat as Zed, looking for a saloon, preferably around the £30k mark with lowish miles (20-30k anyway) as this will inevitably be a car I hold on to for a good 3 years or so (family proofing it really as only have a 3dr Golf GT Sport at present).
For the money I want to spend, I'm probably looking at an 06 or 56 (maybe an 07) so will no doubt be out of warranty (except DRC issues right?). If I buy from a dealer, I'll get a year's warranty I understand but what's the deal if I buy from another dealer i.e. can I buy an Audi warranty direct or does it have to be seamless after the initial 3 year warranty, I'm getting myself a bit confused! What I do know is that the Audi warranty is very expensive and like someone else has already mentioned on another post, it's probably best just to 'self insure' isn't it?
I'm hoping the end of March will be a good time to buy just as the registrations change... any further advice would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
http://pistonheads.com/sales/1517239.htm
No affiliation
- northernpar
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- Location: Aberdeenshire, UK
I'm with MarkMark on this. Buy before end of March and haggle hard to get a good price reduction/extras as they will be trying to make quota before quarter/year end.
The best advice I was ever given was to do your research on what is available on the market (private and trade) and what prices are being asked for mileage/spec, from this you will know what a reasonable price is. This is your most useful tool in haggling with a dealer/independant. When you have seen the car you want make it clear to the salesman that you have the finances and will do the deal today if agreement can be reached. Once the dealer smells a sale he will be desperate to part you from your cash to meet his quota and will be very open to suggestion. Dont' be afraid to offer a price lower than what they want, this is where your research comes into play. You willhave better knowledge of the actual market than any Parker's or Glass's guide can provide. Remember that cash comes in 2 forms; money off and extras added. Sometimes it's easier to get extras than cash off as the dealer has more flexibility.
But....the most important thing to do but also one of the hardest is to walk away from the deal. Make your offer (cost plus extras) if they don't accept then leave them your phone number and tell them to get in touch if they change their mind. Also tell them not to hang about as you have other dealers to visit and other cars to see (you can prove this from your research material). Odds are that if your offer is reasonable you will get a call in the next day or so either accepting or offering a compromise. The fact that they call back indicates that they are willing to dela at your offer so hold firm. There are risks with walking away as another buyer could step in and be prepared to pay more but always remember there are other cars out there on the market. If they do deal then pay a deposit immediately and get the receipt to quote the car reg and date. I got gazzumped with a car that Audi Aberdeen were trying to get from Stoke Audi. Audi Aberdeen took my deposit without having the Stoke car secured and Stoke got a better offer over the weekend. However, as I had paid a deposit this constituted a contract of sale so Aberdeen had to find me an identical or better car for the same price. I ended up with a newer, lower mileage, better specced motor plus a new set of front discs/pads and a powdercoat refurb on the wheels.
Although I know all of this I still get the "I want it now!" urge which means that I probably could haggle even better deals but when it comes down to it I just can't be arsed with the effort!
The best advice I was ever given was to do your research on what is available on the market (private and trade) and what prices are being asked for mileage/spec, from this you will know what a reasonable price is. This is your most useful tool in haggling with a dealer/independant. When you have seen the car you want make it clear to the salesman that you have the finances and will do the deal today if agreement can be reached. Once the dealer smells a sale he will be desperate to part you from your cash to meet his quota and will be very open to suggestion. Dont' be afraid to offer a price lower than what they want, this is where your research comes into play. You willhave better knowledge of the actual market than any Parker's or Glass's guide can provide. Remember that cash comes in 2 forms; money off and extras added. Sometimes it's easier to get extras than cash off as the dealer has more flexibility.
But....the most important thing to do but also one of the hardest is to walk away from the deal. Make your offer (cost plus extras) if they don't accept then leave them your phone number and tell them to get in touch if they change their mind. Also tell them not to hang about as you have other dealers to visit and other cars to see (you can prove this from your research material). Odds are that if your offer is reasonable you will get a call in the next day or so either accepting or offering a compromise. The fact that they call back indicates that they are willing to dela at your offer so hold firm. There are risks with walking away as another buyer could step in and be prepared to pay more but always remember there are other cars out there on the market. If they do deal then pay a deposit immediately and get the receipt to quote the car reg and date. I got gazzumped with a car that Audi Aberdeen were trying to get from Stoke Audi. Audi Aberdeen took my deposit without having the Stoke car secured and Stoke got a better offer over the weekend. However, as I had paid a deposit this constituted a contract of sale so Aberdeen had to find me an identical or better car for the same price. I ended up with a newer, lower mileage, better specced motor plus a new set of front discs/pads and a powdercoat refurb on the wheels.
Although I know all of this I still get the "I want it now!" urge which means that I probably could haggle even better deals but when it comes down to it I just can't be arsed with the effort!
- northernpar
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- Location: Aberdeenshire, UK
Always pitch the lowest, after all if it's on the market for that price then theoretically you could buy it even if it is elsewhere in the country. Just make sure that you are comparing trade prices with similar warranty terms and franchised dealer versus independant. I bought from a main dealer for the main reason of having full warranty support in the full knowledge that the car would cost more than an independant. Not too big an issue if the car still has original manufacturer warranty but for most of the cars on the market this will have either run out or only have a few months left.
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