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RE: Re: RE: Only 255whp - I have a problem.
please give us details and results of the acceleration tests after they are performed...
it's interesting that's how the factory gauges performance/power
it's interesting that's how the factory gauges performance/power
RE: Re: RE: Only 255whp - I have a problem.
Question about the engine braking thing (I have just picked up my car after having a new short engine fitted and am in the 1000mile break-in period):
Surely engine braking is worse in a lower gear? In 6th there would be less engine braking than in 3rd or 4th? Otherwise what would be the point of changing down a gear to aid braking? If engine braking is bad at break-in, I need to completely re-think the way I drive. I try to use brakes as little as possible and always heal'n'toe down-change and rev-match.
I have heard often, and often use, mixed engine revs as being the best break-in procedure for new engines. Not pampering the engine, but not thrashing it either, and making sure all fluids are at full temp before extending above 4000rpm. Unfortunately I wasn't responsable for the break-in of this cars original engine. I just want to make sure it is a good as possible this time around!!
Surely engine braking is worse in a lower gear? In 6th there would be less engine braking than in 3rd or 4th? Otherwise what would be the point of changing down a gear to aid braking? If engine braking is bad at break-in, I need to completely re-think the way I drive. I try to use brakes as little as possible and always heal'n'toe down-change and rev-match.
I have heard often, and often use, mixed engine revs as being the best break-in procedure for new engines. Not pampering the engine, but not thrashing it either, and making sure all fluids are at full temp before extending above 4000rpm. Unfortunately I wasn't responsable for the break-in of this cars original engine. I just want to make sure it is a good as possible this time around!!
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My guess is that there is some confusion in this thread about engine "break in" procedures, engine "braking" and engine "breaking" (as in "breaking the engine")!
I also suggest that if your oil reached 140C and is a 5w-30 its absolutely shot and you need to change it out straight away.
Sounds like a pretty daft procedure to me...
Do Audi know that your oil temps reached that maximum? Out of interest, what do they have to say about that?
My latest oil analysis, after ~4000 miles in the car, revealed that the flashpoint was down to 220F (100C)! That is normal operating temperature for my car!
The oil showed a significant reduction in viscosity compared to the previous sample with only one track day in the interval. During that track day the oil reached 125C.
FWIW.
I also suggest that if your oil reached 140C and is a 5w-30 its absolutely shot and you need to change it out straight away.
Sounds like a pretty daft procedure to me...
Do Audi know that your oil temps reached that maximum? Out of interest, what do they have to say about that?
My latest oil analysis, after ~4000 miles in the car, revealed that the flashpoint was down to 220F (100C)! That is normal operating temperature for my car!
The oil showed a significant reduction in viscosity compared to the previous sample with only one track day in the interval. During that track day the oil reached 125C.
FWIW.
58 C6 RS6 Stage 2+
58 C6 A6 Allroad 2.7 TDi
Previous:
2000 B5 S4 MRC 550 Saloon
2007 B7 RS4 Saloon
1994 S2 Coupe
58 C6 A6 Allroad 2.7 TDi
Previous:
2000 B5 S4 MRC 550 Saloon
2007 B7 RS4 Saloon
1994 S2 Coupe
- PetrolDave
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I saw the 140C figure and took a deep breath.SR71 wrote:I also suggest that if your oil reached 140C and is a 5w-30 its absolutely shot and you need to change it out straight away.
The highest I've ever seen in road use is 115C.
At 140C I've have thought many of the volatiles in the oil would have evaporated and it would no longer have the correct viscosity and/or detergent content.
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Last edited by matthew.lewis2 on Tue Jul 16, 2013 3:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
UAE CARS
2009 Toyota Landcruiser - White -4.7 V8 VXR (SOLD)
2014 Mercedes ML500 - 4.7 V8 Twin Turbo (SOLD)
2008 Audi RS4 - Sprint Blue (SOLD)
2002 Range Rover 4.6 V8 HSE (SOLD)
2007 Golf R32 - Black (SOLD)
2005 Lincoln Navigator - White (SOLD)
UK Cars
2015 Landrover Defender 110 Heritage (SOLD)
2014 Audi RS4 - Sepang Blue (STOLEN)
2003 EP3 Civic Type R - K-Pro Remapped (SOLD)
2004 Golf GT TDi 140 - Superchipped to 189bhp (SOLD)
2003 Audi A2 1.4 Tdi
2009 Toyota Landcruiser - White -4.7 V8 VXR (SOLD)
2014 Mercedes ML500 - 4.7 V8 Twin Turbo (SOLD)
2008 Audi RS4 - Sprint Blue (SOLD)
2002 Range Rover 4.6 V8 HSE (SOLD)
2007 Golf R32 - Black (SOLD)
2005 Lincoln Navigator - White (SOLD)
UK Cars
2015 Landrover Defender 110 Heritage (SOLD)
2014 Audi RS4 - Sepang Blue (STOLEN)
2003 EP3 Civic Type R - K-Pro Remapped (SOLD)
2004 Golf GT TDi 140 - Superchipped to 189bhp (SOLD)
2003 Audi A2 1.4 Tdi
While we appreciate you feeding back the info Matthew, the above sounds bananas.
The car is limited to 7000rpm (check the DIS) until the oil reaches 60C so how the hell can anyone get a RR result beyond that then?
Like Arthur says, the acceleration tests will be interesting to hear about.
The car is limited to 7000rpm (check the DIS) until the oil reaches 60C so how the hell can anyone get a RR result beyond that then?
Like Arthur says, the acceleration tests will be interesting to hear about.
58 C6 RS6 Stage 2+
58 C6 A6 Allroad 2.7 TDi
Previous:
2000 B5 S4 MRC 550 Saloon
2007 B7 RS4 Saloon
1994 S2 Coupe
58 C6 A6 Allroad 2.7 TDi
Previous:
2000 B5 S4 MRC 550 Saloon
2007 B7 RS4 Saloon
1994 S2 Coupe
- PetrolDave
- Cruising
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- Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:28 am
- Location: Southampton, Hampshire UK
I'm beginning to really doubt if they know what they are talking about...matthew.lewis2 wrote:Comments noted guys. I have already spoken to the guys concerned. I have the all clear to continue.
The oil temp doesn't appear on the DIS until it reaches 60C, until then you get a message that the rev limit is 7000rpm. So how do you know when the oil temp is 55C to start the run?matthew.lewis2 wrote:One thing to mention, there are certain parameters that Audi have to consider a power run (RR) correct. One of these is oil temps. The oil temp when doing a power run should be no more than 60c, and the power run should start when oil temp is at 55c.
IMHO holding the revs between 6000-7000rpm for 10 minutes is almost guaranteed to take the oil temp well over 60C, probably even over 100C.
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You're bl00dy right! I'd forgotten that it was limited at those RPM's.SR71 wrote:While we appreciate you feeding back the info Matthew, the above sounds bananas.
The car is limited to 7000rpm (check the DIS) until the oil reaches 60C so how the hell can anyone get a RR result beyond that then?
Like Arthur says, the acceleration tests will be interesting to hear about.
Let's see what Wednesday brings and I will report back further. I only seem to be muddying the water at the moment.
263whp.. Oh no!
Hi Guys,
My RS4 just put down 263whp (196wkw) flat from about 6400-7900rpm. What the!?!?! Could this be an Intake Flap problem? (no fault codes) See below graph.

Thanks, Mal.
My RS4 just put down 263whp (196wkw) flat from about 6400-7900rpm. What the!?!?! Could this be an Intake Flap problem? (no fault codes) See below graph.

Thanks, Mal.
RE: 263whp.. Oh no!
It could be the effect but the common cause for this sort of thing seems to be vaccum related. Have you disconnected the exhaust valves?
MacRS should be able to give a good view of things to check
MacRS should be able to give a good view of things to check
RE: 263whp.. Oh no!
Yes, but they are plugged with a screw and also have a clamp around it. It shouldn't be leaking but I'm going to check tomorrow. If it was leaking would this throw up an error (I don't have any errors, VAGCOM'ed straight after the run)
Thanks, Mal.
Thanks, Mal.
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