Engine mount swap

4.2 V8 40v Naturally Aspirated - 339bhp
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infrasilver
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Engine mount swap

Post by infrasilver » Thu Apr 22, 2010 7:24 pm

As you can see from other posts I have been busy going through all the problems with my car the last couple of days and I am wondering if anyone has swapped the engine mounts out themselves as this is what I will be doing with mine.

I have checked the power input to the mount on both sides and they both show 3v my O/S is also showing 20 Ohms inpedence but my N/S mount is not giving me a reading at all showing that the mount is at fault.

Whilst under the car I was planning how to swap the mount and dropping the anti roll bar and N/S alloy subframe should give me access to the top fixing of the mount as long as I support the engine whilst doing this.
I have been told the way to do swap the mount though was to take the bumper off and access it from there, but with all the other parts in the way this looks a harder job than dropping the subframe.
Any suggestions?

Moosey
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RE: Engine mount swap

Post by Moosey » Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:28 pm

Infra,

Having recently changed both engine monts on a friend's B6 S4, i can tell you that it is not an easy job. The mounts are very inaccessible. You can remove the front end for better access, but you will have to remove the front bumper and radiator support. This will mean you'd have to drain the coolant and remove the air-con refridgerant. (As the AC condenser would come out with the radiator support.)

You cannot access them from above, there's no space. From below you must support the engine, remove the anti-roll bar and it's mountings (Which bolt to the chassis and suspension subframe.) as they carry the engine mounts. Even with this out the way the top nuts on the mounts are hard to reach. I used a stubby 13mm spanner, and needed a prybar for initial loosening/final tightening. I have small hands, and it was still hard for me to get access to the upper mount nuts.

It's a difficult and involved job, i have a lot of tools at my disposal and lots of experience but still found it hard. Not impossible, but don't expect to have it done in any short amount of time. I think i spent probably 2-ish hours per side, maybe more.

Mounting brackets and anti-roll bar removed:

Image

Engine mount:

Image

That pic doesn't do the lack of space justice.

-Moosey.

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infrasilver
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Post by infrasilver » Wed Apr 28, 2010 8:44 pm

I have had my hand up on top of the mount when I was testing it to access the space and it is limited as you say. Its finding space for a breaker bar that will be needed if the nut is as tight as you say that worries me.

I have the mount and just need to find the time to fit it. I have done many fiddly jobs similar to this and hope it is not too much of a pain but I'm sure with my substantial stock of tools it will get done in the 2 hours you said. I estimated it should take a couple of hours. I'm glad it's only the one I am swapping out.

Skinned knuckles will feature in this repair I think.

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chunky79
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Re: RE: Engine mount swap

Post by chunky79 » Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:43 am

Moosey wrote:Infra,

Having recently changed both engine monts on a friend's B6 S4, i can tell you that it is not an easy job. The mounts are very inaccessible. You can remove the front end for better access, but you will have to remove the front bumper and radiator support. This will mean you'd have to drain the coolant and remove the air-con refridgerant. (As the AC condenser would come out with the radiator support.)

You cannot access them from above, there's no space. From below you must support the engine, remove the anti-roll bar and it's mountings (Which bolt to the chassis and suspension subframe.) as they carry the engine mounts. Even with this out the way the top nuts on the mounts are hard to reach. I used a stubby 13mm spanner, and needed a prybar for initial loosening/final tightening. I have small hands, and it was still hard for me to get access to the upper mount nuts.

It's a difficult and involved job, i have a lot of tools at my disposal and lots of experience but still found it hard. Not impossible, but don't expect to have it done in any short amount of time. I think i spent probably 2-ish hours per side, maybe more.

Mounting brackets and anti-roll bar removed:

Image

Engine mount:

Image

That pic doesn't do the lack of space justice.

-Moosey.
superb first post :thumbs:
previous- Pug 205 gti, 306 gti, 309 gti Goodwood.
Audi S3, S4 V8 avant.
Porsche Macan Turbo.
Gone but NEVER forgotten - C5 RS6 Misano red avant.

Now - Empty garage

If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there!

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infrasilver
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Post by infrasilver » Fri May 07, 2010 7:58 pm

Finally fitted the engine mount this morning.

It wasn't as bad as I was expecting.

Dropped the antiroll bar by removing the two 16mm bolts and the four 13mm bolts. Put an jack under the engine to support it and took the subframe off on the N/S by removing the three 18mm bolts and the 13mm nut holding the base of the engine mount.
Then came the fiddly bit, removing the top 13mm nut. I offered up a few 13mm spanners and sockets and ended up using a very small ratchet and a 13mm socket and was able just to get enough leverage on it to undo it. I then dropped the engine mount out and removed the power connector. Then reversal of the removal process.

Took around an hour and a half to do the whole job and no skinned knuckles, although I should of let the engine cool down a bit more as my hand was resting on the exhaust manifold whilst undoing the top nut of the engine mount.

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