MAF life pole

[buzzard]

my first MAF lasted about 40K but my second seems like its on the way at 63K

interested to know average age

[AdamS4]

I've only had the car for 2 weeks and i've just replace my 1st one which got to 84k....

[DavidT]

Yes, mine got to 65k before the readings started to fall off.

[Blue_Thunder]

Think we need another option for >40k.

Might also be worth posting what sort of filter people have been using to see how much truth their is in "oiled filters cause MAF's to die early".

[S4TAN]

"oiled filters cause MAF's to die early".

Good call Scot - I've used K&N, Green, and now running an ITG (best by far!) - all oiled, none of them have killed a MAF - the only way I killed a MAF was by being a total tool and cleaning the element directly with a cotton-bud soaked in IPA [don't try this at home kids - your MAF will die!] - best way to clean the element is in a bag of IPA and give it a good "slooshing" then leave to soak for 1/2 hour ...

[MCB]

The original MAF died at approx 60K.

[GrahamS4]

My MAF was faulty at 29K, but ~ 7/8 years old.

[ChipHazzard]

I had my maf changed last yearat approx 85k, I dont know if it was the original maf or not, I have done approx 10k since then

[C-24]

My MAF is not working properly (it's peak reading is about 180g/s instead of 250g/s) and the car is in limp mode when MAF is plugged in.
When I plug the MAF out, the car runs fantastic performance, but the dashboard shows the ABS and ESP symbols, does that mean that they do not work while the MAF is plugged out ?

Also, is it useful to have a bad-working MAF (ie : lower turbo pressure = better turbo reliability ?) and can I use my car without it with no problem ? Should I replaced it with a new one ?

Thanks a lot.

[ChipHazzard]

C-24,

IIRC If the maf is bad then it cause's the car to run lean which means increased temp's which in turn burns out the EGT & possibly lamda sensor's, also higher temps could potentially fry the turbo's

In short get a new MAF

[C-24]

Ok but when I unplug the MAF everything seems to be alright, but I noticed huge temperature when I was driving in Slovenia and in Croatia where extern temperature was 40degree Celcius. The car never had more than 90degree, and here with very high extern temperature it gets 100degree, even 115degree once. And Oil temp is about 120degree or 125 when really hot.
A new MAF may resolve this ?

PS : with or without the MAF the motor and oil temps are rising.

[ChipHazzard]

The car reverts to a default fuel mapping when you unplug the MAF. I'm sure someone else will be along properly to advise accordingly or correct me if I'm wrong

[C-24]

You are right, when unplugged, the chip acts on its own (as it was mapped). But is it bad ?

edit : I mean, why don't we all unplugg our MAF to be sure the car runs full power then ?

[S4TAN]

Without the MAF working I don't think the car can adapt to the variables and just runs as if a set amount of air was coming in - so you may not get the full potential of the conditions.... or something

[C-24]

Ok, gotta put a new one. I like the bad-working MAF I've got right now, because when the technical control (visit for car) want to test the car, they can't push it so hard, they are little f###ers.