ABS cutting in at low speed

[MCB]

Two things you could try, although neither of them might work.

If you have a pressure washer you could remove the wheels and give the back of the CV joints a blast, may work if it is just dirt/grime – I presume your CV boots are all okay?

Alternatively you may be able to see in this area with the aid of a torch and mirror - bit of a long shot I’m afraid - maybe worth a try as you will soon find out.

And just a quick note, removing ABS sensors on our cars can be a complete B******d at times, they don’t always just pull out, on one of mine I thought it had been glued in took me about half an hour to get the dam thing out.

Good luck

Paul

[SimonS4MTM]

Cheers Paul

I will try to take a look at the weekend if the weather is fine, and if knowone knows a vagcom or other keep your hands clean method.

Though I doubt I will be able to visually see anything, gettin the hose in there may help.

[MCB]

Though I doubt I will be able to visually see anything

Think your right, just been trying to find a photo of that area and I think the gap between the CV joint and the upright is smaller than I had thought, basically non B****y existent so may of just spoken a load of old codgers!

[grizz]

I've fitted 4 rear cv's this month , all of them on the o/s rear !
1/ Remove the centre cap from the wheel .
2/ loosen the drive shaft nut.
3/ Jack up and remove the wheel .
4/ undo & remove the top wish bone bolt.
5/ with a soft face hammer tap the cv out of the hub , as it moves out you will see the abs ring , turn the shaft & look for any large gaps on the ring, check that it's tight on the cv .
This should take 5 mins a side max. Hope this helps .

[MCB]

Nice one Grizz a quick way to check the rears!

[MCB]

Bye the way if you have a go at this you will need 14mm Alen key socket for the drive shaft nut preferably 1/2" drive and a length of tube to go over your T Bar for extra purchase as these bolts can can be tight as you know what so best to be prepared!

[ChipHazzard]

Bye the way if you have a go at this you will need 14mm Alen key socket for the drive shaft nut preferably 1/2" drive and a length of tube to go over your T Bar for extra purchase as these bolts can can be tight as you know what so best to be prepared!

I thought thats what breaker bar's were for save's skinning the knuckles when the length of tube slide's off ............ and a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor

[MCB]

Guess you’ve been lucky then, I needed 18” Snap-On bar and a length of steel tube to free mine.

[grizz]

I normally use a 3/4 in air gun to remove them, but a torque wrench to re-torque them..

[MCB]

Probably have the car at a comfortable height on your b****y car lift as well you b****r, luxury

[Dr-Al]

DrAl

What address do you look at?

The ABS module (03), not sure what block. Go to 'Measure blocks' and scroll through them until you find it - it will be obvious as there will be 4 speeds displayed. Strangely, mine measures 1kmh at each wheel when stationary

[SimonS4MTM]

Cheers Griz

[SimonS4MTM]

Thanks DrAl, I will look at these first. I should be able to read the wheel speeds and see which one is droping out at low speeds.

Thanks for your help guys, I will report back one I have had a chance to look into it.

[littleblue]

so, to confirm; vag com will be able to point out which wheel is causing the problem rather than look at every wheel in turn manually?

[Dr-Al]

so, to confirm; vag com will be able to point out which wheel is causing the problem rather than look at every wheel in turn manually?

I had no luck with this for several reasons:

1) To talk to VAG-COM the ABS module needs to be in diagnostic mode (it will beep and you get the warning on the DIS. As soon as an ABS 'event' is triggered, it comes out of diagnostic mode).

2) To narrow down which wheel is causing the problem, you need to keep the car going in a straight line. Any turns or curves will cause the outer wheels to go faster than the inner wheels, so comparing the numbers becomes irrelevant.

3) The readings are numbered 1, 2, 3, 4. I have no idea which wheel each corresponds to.

To get this to work, I would plan to do the following:

a) Jack up the car and spin each wheel by hand to see which reading changes. This way, you solve 3) above. Please post here if you do this, it will save everyone else having to repeat it.

b) Put the car on a rolling road at about 15-20 mph and compare the readings [no braking, so ABS module stays in diagnostic mode solves 1) above, straight line solves 2) above]. If one of the wheels gives a lower or intermittant reading, then you have found the culprit. If not, you have waster the RR fee plus an hour or so of your life.

All told, it may be quicker/cheaper to do it by manual inspection unless you have free and easy access to a rolling road.