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So, as mentioned in an earlier post, my auxiliary water pump was leaking. Audi wanted nearly £700 to change the pump, so I set about doing it myself.

I purchased the parts from my local Audi dealer, Bury St Edmunds Audi. This is the first time I had used them as I have only recently moved to the area. A top service was provided with any parts that were not in stock being delivered the next day, even when not ordered till 5:45.

The parts that I ordered were;

Aux water pump, 078965561, £83
Diverter valves x 2, 06A145710N, £22
Injector seals x 6, 035906149A, £2.50
Inlet manifold gaskets x 2, 078129717N, £2.80

I would also advise to get the “spider hose”, as this can become brittle, unfortunately I found out about this one too late, 078103235B, about £55.

Also worth getting a new F-hose, 078133784AJ, £11, and TBB unless you have Samco ones.

The job took me around 4 to 5 hours, cleaning parts as I went and also sheltering from the rain towards the end.

Firstly I removed the Y intake pipe, once the hoses are removed from both ends, you simply remove the 4 bolts holding it in place and lift away. It is a good idea to tape plastic bags on the pipes to prevent any dirt or stray washers falling into them.

Then I set about removing a few connectors for the injectors and other parts. I also removed the exhaust temp sensor control units from the back of the inlet manifold.

Two vacuum hoses were then disconnected.

Once they are removed you can gain access to the bolts holding the inlet manifold to the heads.

You can then lift the inlet manifold a prop it up to gain access to the aux water pump. Be careful at this stage as there will be a lot of cr#p around that can fall inside the heads. Block the holes up and then blow the dirt away with an air line, I did not have one so I used a can of air.

Removing the pump is the easy bit, just two hoses and a connector.

Re-fitting is a reversal of removal.

You may ask why I had new injector seals, I was told that these can become brittle over time and if you remove the fuel rail then you will need new injector seals. I manage to remove the head just enough whilst leaving the fuel rail in place, so I decided to leave it there (if it aint broke don’t fix it).

Cheers to all on the forum who were on hand to answer any questions before I started this job.

Removing the pump is the easy bit, just two hoses and a connector.

Re-fitting is a reversal of removal.

You may ask why I had new injector seals, I was told that these can become brittle over time and if you remove the fuel rail then you will need new injector seals. I manage to remove the head just enough whilst leaving the fuel rail in place, so I decided to leave it there (if it aint broke don’t fix it).

Cheers to all on the forum who were on hand to answer any questions before I started this job.

well done si..glad to have been a help..

I have skimmed through the write up a bit and I do have more photo's. If anyone wants to know more, PM me.

How do you know if pump is buggered?

It leaks, as can be seen in the photo's. It looks like the barrier reef.

Or were you joking?

your,ll have water dwn the back of the engine also if u look with a torch between the inlet manifold u can see if its wet in the V of the engine..and even though its leaking that doesn,t mean its not working..just leaking..

Having to change my pump now too, It is leaking.......

Time to get the torch out....

i tell ya what simon we mite think of our cars as stealth rockets but that little aux pump is a stealth pain in the arse..there will be a run on batterys now so every1,s torch is working just to check this pump out for leaks..

Could this be the reason my water level drops off from Max to below Min?