should this make me wary as long as they have history ?
Is there anything known as weaknesses at these sort of miles ?
I've seen a couple of lower mileage cars at Fontains and Croft motors but not keen on the colour
Price is interesting too
S4 Avant, should I be afraid of high-ish milers ?
S4 Avant, should I be afraid of high-ish milers ?
Still looking for the 'right' S4 avant, it strikes me that a large percentage of the cars offered for sale are in the 70k+ mileage group ( obviously due to their age )
should this make me wary as long as they have history ?
Is there anything known as weaknesses at these sort of miles ?
I've seen a couple of lower mileage cars at Fontains and Croft motors but not keen on the colour
Price is interesting too
should this make me wary as long as they have history ?
Is there anything known as weaknesses at these sort of miles ?
I've seen a couple of lower mileage cars at Fontains and Croft motors but not keen on the colour
Price is interesting too
-
SimonS4MTM
- Top Gear
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- Location: Norfolk
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If you are looking at high milers you should only buy one if it has had the cam-belt changed as that is due at around 80,000 miles and is an expensive business. Generally the change should be done before 80k so any car that has around that mileage and hasnt had that done yet I would avoid unless the price and condition of the car makes it worthwhile for you to buy it and get the cambelt changed yourself.
JonS
2000 Ming Blue Avant, Tanoga Short Shift, Revo, RS4 gearbox (not by choice), RS4 Wheels, Eibach Springs, Forge DVs = Happy Days
2000 Ming Blue Avant, Tanoga Short Shift, Revo, RS4 gearbox (not by choice), RS4 Wheels, Eibach Springs, Forge DVs = Happy Days
My advice is to either keep looking for a lower mileage one, or alternatively to get a bargain high-miler and expect to pay so money on it. Some of the older cars have problems with the manifold (heatshield) and turbos. Also as Jonno says, items like the cam belt should have been changed. It is not always possible to be sure that the work has been done.
If you get a 40,000 car, then you still cannot be certain that it has been properly looked after and has another 40,000 before major problems occur. However if you buy a 80,000 car and get it cheap, then you won't mind so much when the major work needs to be done. This also has the advantage that you can get some better parts fitted rather than OEM - but of course that's another path...
If you get a 40,000 car, then you still cannot be certain that it has been properly looked after and has another 40,000 before major problems occur. However if you buy a 80,000 car and get it cheap, then you won't mind so much when the major work needs to be done. This also has the advantage that you can get some better parts fitted rather than OEM - but of course that's another path...
2001 Silver S4 Avant
AmD remap, APR R1 DVs, APR bipipe, Full Miltek exhaust
H&R coilovers, AWE DTS, Porsche front brakes, Short-shifter, 18" RS4 replicas
Defi-HUD boost gauge / turbo-timer (with afterrun pump modification), Phatbox
AmD remap, APR R1 DVs, APR bipipe, Full Miltek exhaust
H&R coilovers, AWE DTS, Porsche front brakes, Short-shifter, 18" RS4 replicas
Defi-HUD boost gauge / turbo-timer (with afterrun pump modification), Phatbox
I bought a high-miler (80k) 2 years ago now and haven't looked back since. Anyone stating a car with 40k is better than a car with 80k is talking cr@p - it's very much down to the individual car. A low mileage car that has been used primarily in urban areas would show more wear in the steering components, will probably have more body damage (minor parking incidents) and is likely to have had more stop-starts with consequential engine and turbo wear problems. Compare this to an 80k car which has spent most of its life on the motorway. In my experience, once you get past 40k miles, you will need to start thinking about replacing the suspension on our cars anyway. Make sure the cambelt has been replaced and get some proof of it.
My advice would be to find a car for sale by a private owner, talk to them about what problems they have had with the car i.e. turbos, brakes - see if they know what the common problems are on the S4. Get a specialist to check it over, rather than the RAC and get an aftermarket warranty if you want peace of mind.
Our cars are built to last - everyone goes on about the turbos being prone to fail, but all turbos have a limited life, the trouble with the S4 (and RS4) is that they are a b1tch to change ;-(
Finally, AFAIK, the heatshield problem was limited to pre-facelift models, so if you get a mid-99 onwards, then you shouldn't have any problems here.
Hope this helps.
My advice would be to find a car for sale by a private owner, talk to them about what problems they have had with the car i.e. turbos, brakes - see if they know what the common problems are on the S4. Get a specialist to check it over, rather than the RAC and get an aftermarket warranty if you want peace of mind.
Our cars are built to last - everyone goes on about the turbos being prone to fail, but all turbos have a limited life, the trouble with the S4 (and RS4) is that they are a b1tch to change ;-(
Finally, AFAIK, the heatshield problem was limited to pre-facelift models, so if you get a mid-99 onwards, then you shouldn't have any problems here.
Hope this helps.
Nige,
fair point, I suppose you can only state that a low miler is better than a high miler if the use, service & TLC has been the same so you're comparing eggs with eggs
when you say get a specialist to check it over rather than the RAC etc, are you talking Audi main dealer or independant garage that specialises in these things ? ( coz being new here I know of none )
fair point, I suppose you can only state that a low miler is better than a high miler if the use, service & TLC has been the same so you're comparing eggs with eggs
when you say get a specialist to check it over rather than the RAC etc, are you talking Audi main dealer or independant garage that specialises in these things ? ( coz being new here I know of none )
Definately not a Stealer, I would recommend someone like AMD, QST, Star Performance - they know their way around our cars. The difficult thing is to get the car you're about to buy to them for a check-over.
Understand where you're coming from ref. like for like, but the point is that buying a car from a dealer is sometimes more risky than buying privately. Yes, I know you get peace of mind from an Audi warranty, but this can be purchased separately. Its nice to know who owned it last, you can get a good idea of how they treated it by meeting/talking to them. Plus the money you save from the dealer mark-up will pay for the warranty and a few mods
Nige.
Understand where you're coming from ref. like for like, but the point is that buying a car from a dealer is sometimes more risky than buying privately. Yes, I know you get peace of mind from an Audi warranty, but this can be purchased separately. Its nice to know who owned it last, you can get a good idea of how they treated it by meeting/talking to them. Plus the money you save from the dealer mark-up will pay for the warranty and a few mods
Nige.
Hi,
heres what I found out looking for mine.
1. Do you want a std car or a tuned one?
Std then get a low miles Std one. Must be serviced at 10K, no exceptions or warranty will be voided.
2. Audi specialist inspection + full HPI (www.hpicheck.com) including mileage check is money well spent.
3. RAC inspection includes HPI and "warranty" and valuation. IMHO go with 2.
4. Most tuning invalidates the Audi warranty, although some Audi dealers have approved tuning options, at a premium naturally.
5. Known faults seem to affect low, medium and high mileage cars equally. TBB (split) is the most often seen issue along with DV (split).
6. Large BHP figures requires large bank accounts.
7. High miles, well maintained is no problem. A well maintained car will have full receipts, service history etc..
8. If you want a tuned one probably better off buying a tuned one, make sure it's all documented including wheel HP figures not adjusted ones.
9. Audi customer services will check car history for you FOC.
10. Blown turbo's and gearboxes are big money.
11. Fantastic car fast comfortable and very stealthy.
12. Audi warranty isn't cheap. Expect 500-800 per annum depending on age mileage.
13. Take your time, took me 5 months to find what I was looking for. You have a head start though as I found this forum after buying my car.
14. Try to get a local meet. If possible try to get a few owners to take you out in their cars.
heres what I found out looking for mine.
1. Do you want a std car or a tuned one?
Std then get a low miles Std one. Must be serviced at 10K, no exceptions or warranty will be voided.
2. Audi specialist inspection + full HPI (www.hpicheck.com) including mileage check is money well spent.
3. RAC inspection includes HPI and "warranty" and valuation. IMHO go with 2.
4. Most tuning invalidates the Audi warranty, although some Audi dealers have approved tuning options, at a premium naturally.
5. Known faults seem to affect low, medium and high mileage cars equally. TBB (split) is the most often seen issue along with DV (split).
6. Large BHP figures requires large bank accounts.
7. High miles, well maintained is no problem. A well maintained car will have full receipts, service history etc..
8. If you want a tuned one probably better off buying a tuned one, make sure it's all documented including wheel HP figures not adjusted ones.
9. Audi customer services will check car history for you FOC.
10. Blown turbo's and gearboxes are big money.
11. Fantastic car fast comfortable and very stealthy.
12. Audi warranty isn't cheap. Expect 500-800 per annum depending on age mileage.
13. Take your time, took me 5 months to find what I was looking for. You have a head start though as I found this forum after buying my car.
14. Try to get a local meet. If possible try to get a few owners to take you out in their cars.
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