RS4 suspension on S4
RS4 suspension on S4
I know some of you have RS4 suspension on your S4s so can anyone tell me how much of an improvement in body roll this gives. Ideally I would like to fit an H&R coilover kit but I am looking at some used RS4 and its a lot cheaper. Is the RS4 much of an upgrade? Will it lower the ride at all?
Cheers.
Cheers.
B5 S4
B8.5 S4
B8.5 S4
RE: RS4 suspension on S4
20mm lower than the S4 from what I recall, yes it is better. No match for H&R stuff though. If just body roll try fitting just the ARB kit.
99 Ming Saloon, Tanoga S/S, De-cat APR D/Ps, Miltek catback, Forge DVs, RS4 suspension, K04s, I/Cs, MAF, Clutch, injectors, oil cooler, airbox, Y pipe, spark plugs, front brakes, Vast EFK, Walbro fuel pump, MRC custom tune, 18" B7 RS4 reps, Kumho tyres
- mikeyquattro
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RE: RS4 suspension on S4
Ive got RS4 suspension inc arb's. Miles better than standard, but as KayGee says, You get what you pay for! I picked mine up from ebay for £50 so it was well worth it!
Tomorrow is another day
RE: RS4 suspension on S4
Thanks for the reply Mikey have you any tips on fitting the RS4 suspension? KayGee, I would also like the car lower so I am pleased to here that the RS4 should take it down 20mm, again any tips when fitting?
Thanks in advance Danian.
Thanks in advance Danian.
B5 S4
B8.5 S4
B8.5 S4
RE: RS4 suspension on S4
Do a search in this forum, I think there is lots of info about it.
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@ fish try the classifieds cos mik is selling his avant with a job lot of mods already done...mite just be your kettle of err...fish.
GARTH ROAD MOT CENTRE LTD
Unit 2 1-7 Amenity Way Garth rd Morden Surrey SM4 4AX
Exhausts,Clutches,Diagnostics,Tyres,Servicing and Air Conditioning
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020 83353032
Unit 2 1-7 Amenity Way Garth rd Morden Surrey SM4 4AX
Exhausts,Clutches,Diagnostics,Tyres,Servicing and Air Conditioning
Opening soon is our new motorcycle Mot bay
020 83353032
When I did a search on RS4 suspension what I read was not really very possitive. Seemed the rear sits up high (cause of the avant weight) adn the front is lower. It is an improvement yes, but not a great amount - rather get NEW coilovers than OLD RS4 suspension for half the price.
Turns out the higher rear could actually suit my car, but still - I would much rather spend money on coilovers & get them at the height I want then get them corner weighted!
If a set came up dirt cheap - that is different!
Turns out the higher rear could actually suit my car, but still - I would much rather spend money on coilovers & get them at the height I want then get them corner weighted!
If a set came up dirt cheap - that is different!
Facelift Imola S4 | Cust K04's, Tubular Manifolds, 3" DPs->2.75" Catback | FMIC | PSS9 Coilovers + ARB's | Brembo 8-Pots | SS + DTS | 5??HP/475lbs/ft | 3.06S FATS on S4 Box
Sold: A4 (B5) 2.8 Quattro | Ivory Pearl
Melted: Corrado - IHI 1.8t: 343BHP
Sold: A4 (B5) 2.8 Quattro | Ivory Pearl
Melted: Corrado - IHI 1.8t: 343BHP
- SimonS4MTM
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1/4 - a 1/3 of the cost of coilovers? Assuming they were "low milers" ;o)
Facelift Imola S4 | Cust K04's, Tubular Manifolds, 3" DPs->2.75" Catback | FMIC | PSS9 Coilovers + ARB's | Brembo 8-Pots | SS + DTS | 5??HP/475lbs/ft | 3.06S FATS on S4 Box
Sold: A4 (B5) 2.8 Quattro | Ivory Pearl
Melted: Corrado - IHI 1.8t: 343BHP
Sold: A4 (B5) 2.8 Quattro | Ivory Pearl
Melted: Corrado - IHI 1.8t: 343BHP
Just fitted a set of used RS4 suspension to my S4 avant. The ride height is now perfect, at least for me. Dropped the front about 10mm and the rear stayed about the same, it's nice and level now. Ride is spot on, much better controlled but not harsh, you can definetly tell its stiff and you do feel the road more. For me and the local roads I think anything stiffer would start crashing and bouncing around. If i was buying new I'd get Koni's, I had them on my VR6 and being adjustable for damping was really useful. My mate has an HandR coilover kit on his later golf and that is just plain awful on our roads, probably great on a track but the compression damping is far too stiff and is bone jarring. I paid £120- for complete set and took about 6 hours too fit myself due to a seized bolt. Mines a road car, no track days, used for towing at the weekends and so far this set-up seems grat value for money.
Main prblem is getting the upper pinch bolt out. If that comes out the rest is easy. I think there is a guide over on Audi world somewhere with pictures. You'll need spring compressors, socket set, 16/17/18/19mm spanners, allen keys,a decent jack and axle stand for safety,or use a wheel under the car in case the jack should fail. Also handy to have WD40 or equivalent and a tub of grease for the bolts and spring compressor threads.. Basic job for front is jack up, remove wheel, undo 3x16mm bolts that secure top assebly to car(from above). Under the pinch bolt, knock out and release the two ball joints. Undo lower shock bolt and complete assembly is removed with a bit of jiggery pokery. Undo the top two 13mm nuts and you have a shock assembly. Compress sping,hold damper rod with allen key in top and us a ring spanner to undo the top nut. Thats it all apart. reverse procedure with the new bits and job done.
Rears, jack up , wheel off, undo 19mm link arm and knock out bolt, four bolts on the top mount and one bottom shock mount. Use a long bit off wood etc too push lower assembly down out of way, twist shock and assembly and remove. Use spring compressors then just remove the top single bolt. Put new spring over new damper then compress. Shove up into assembly. Wack in the bolt and your ready to slap it back on car. The rears took me about an hour each form start too finish. Apolgies if I missed anything but have'nt got a lot of time at the mo.
The other thing I noticed different to the old set-up is less bump steer. The wheel used to have a tendency to want to self steer as the suspension moved over undulating bumps, this is much reduced and the steering far more neutral. Hope this helps.
Rears, jack up , wheel off, undo 19mm link arm and knock out bolt, four bolts on the top mount and one bottom shock mount. Use a long bit off wood etc too push lower assembly down out of way, twist shock and assembly and remove. Use spring compressors then just remove the top single bolt. Put new spring over new damper then compress. Shove up into assembly. Wack in the bolt and your ready to slap it back on car. The rears took me about an hour each form start too finish. Apolgies if I missed anything but have'nt got a lot of time at the mo.
The other thing I noticed different to the old set-up is less bump steer. The wheel used to have a tendency to want to self steer as the suspension moved over undulating bumps, this is much reduced and the steering far more neutral. Hope this helps.
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