SJ-RS4 wrote:OK thanks SJS, I have just signed up
But on the note of Audi (or even VAG paint) I have heard that it is not the strongest paint on the market, and that it can swirl/scratch easier, not sure if this is true or not!
EDIT: check this out
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... php?t=6361 its a beading compition, these guys are obsesed (but i would ove a result like that!!)

Audi/VAG paint is some of the hardest on the market and the top clear coat lacquer is supposedly scratch resistant, although it will still swirl and scratch if you take it to a Polish car wash!
The only real polish to deal with Audi/Vag paint is Menzerna PO85RD3.02, although some of the new 3M range will work as well with only a small variation in speed to obtain perfect results.
If you go one to Detailing World, you could easily spend a fortune in search of perfection!!!
You could ask 10 different people and you'll get different answers on how best to clean your car.
A lot of it also depends on how bad it is in the first place.
If I'm doing a full detail, I will spend between 10 and 15 hours on a car minimum (up to 40 hours if it's in readiness for a show)
First off for me, I soak the car in an Orange pre wash, then I stick the kettle on and make a brew whilst the pre wash lifts the dirt up. Then I go round the car and add Bilberry wheel cleaner to all four wheels, drink some of my tea, then using a brush to agitate the dirt and brake dust on each wheel. I then hose off using a hot pressure washer. I then soak the car in a shampoo, drink some more tea, then blast off with a hot pressure washer.
This method for me will have removed about 98% of the dirt. If there are tar spots around the lower half then a give them a blast with Tardis (Autosmarts tar and glue remover). After a few minutes the tar spots will have dissolved and can be rinsed off.
After that, I then dry the car using drying towels.
It is impertive if you have a swirl free car that you make sure the car is 100% clean before you do this else you can drag any remaining dirt across the paint and inflict scratches (which causes swirling).
If the car has not been detailed before, then I clay the entire surface.
If you've not used clay bar on a car before then you won't know just how much of a difference this can make to the cars paint. The feel of the piant before can feel rough, but afterwards, it will feel like glass!
After that, if she needs a deswirl/polish, I crack open the Menzerna PO85RD3.02 and go over the car (rotary over metail and UDM over plastic bumpers and thinner areas).
After the polish has broken down, then I buff off with a nice clean microfibre.
After this stage, I get out a pre wax cleaner such as Dodo Juice Lime Prime. This contains micro abrasives and I use this on a soft pad via UDM to give a superb finish to the paint in readiness for wax.
Then it's down to the wax stage.
Chosing the right wax for me depends on the colour of the car.
For darker coloured cars (blue/black), then I'd personally chose Dodo Juice Purple Haze.
Yes, all this may seem obsessive, but I like my cars to look good!!
Here's a few recent cars that I've done.
my RS2
and my Audi 80CD which took best of show at ADI 2007 (pre 88 class)
my Audi 100
