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Hi,

I'm off to see my first RS6 on Saturday (I've posted details of the car here: http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=96695).

Other than browsing some of these forums over the last few years, I don't really know what to look for. Other than the obvious stuff like service history etc what is the top 5 things I should check? I'm assuing the DRC would be number 1?! Any other common faults or things worth checking?

It's probably worth looking at the buyers guide...

http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15229

Read this
http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15229

Panda, there's a bit of an echo in here!!!

I know I was slower than you posting it!

Nice one - cheers. I had already had a quick look at that (but many months ago!), its a cracking guide actually.

So, in terms of what to check, as a most likely to fail / most costly to fix I'm going with:

1. DRC (DRC fixed with H+R coilovers on this one)
2. Gearbox
3. Cam belt (needs done soon)
4. Brakes (changed recently - need to check what was used)
5. Tyres (changed recently - need to check what was used)

Interestingly, that last RS6 I looked at in Edinburgh failed on 1. 4. & 5. and that was before the test drive!

What is a lock-up clutch?

In laymans terms the lock up clutch is there to save fuel and hard to spot if it goes AWOL...on testing the gearbox during the test drive where you will notice if there is a problem is between 1st and 2nd under heavy load (flooring it)...if there is a problem you will feel like you've been kicked it the back when it slams into second...I don't think it's as noticable between 3rd to 4th and 5th...you're best friend will be a Vagcom if you can get one and the seller is happy for you to plug it in to the diagnostics port...it can reveal more than anything if the cars got a problem.

Scotland wrote:Nice one - cheers. I had already had a quick look at that (but many months ago!), its a cracking guide actually.

So, in terms of what to check, as a most likely to fail / most costly to fix I'm going with:

1. DRC (DRC fixed with H+R coilovers on this one)
2. Gearbox
3. Cam belt (needs done soon)
4. Brakes (changed recently - need to check what was used)
5. Tyres (changed recently - need to check what was used)

Interestingly, that last RS6 I looked at in Edinburgh failed on 1. 4. & 5. and that was before the test drive!

What is a lock-up clutch?

1. This is good, although the H+R coil overs are quite hard i believe.
2. Mentioned in my other post.
3. Can be DIY'd but is a lot of work. Like most things RS6, budget a grand and be thankful of change
4. I am bloody fussy about brakes on a 2 ton missile that both my wife and I zoom along in. You can get cheap CHEAP pads for these cars that are branded my a top end manufacturer (Pagid) that uses low end friction material that i wouldn't grace a shopping wagon with, let alone one of these puppies. OEM are a very capable Pagid compound and very good. EBC yellow seem to be another ok choice at around 200 quid a set. BEWARE OF BARGINS!
5. Each to their own here! Almost causes as many arguments as brakes

The lock up clutch you speak of is part of the auto box torque converter. Sparing you the fluid dynamics and black magic of automatic gearboxes, the lock up clutch basically ensures that the gearbox and engine are locked together mechanically. THey are prone to failure on the RS6 and necessitate a very very very large bill to fix. Vagcom / vcds scan will tell you if its buggered....

Scotland wrote: What is a lock-up clutch?

Where is that written? It must be different terminology, I've not heard it before.
It sounds like an unwanted prison-style reach-around performed by a larger man on a smaller man.

These are seriouslt sophisticated and complex machines, so apart from the obvious mechanical issues that have already been mentioned, there are lots of electrical things that can go wrong. Easiest way is to plug in a Vagcom and check for error codes, but as a general fault guide:

- Tyre pressure sensors fail
- MAFS can fail
- Rear wash wipe and rear washer failure
- Check all interior switches and functions
- Check intercoolers as these fail frequently and are £1000 plus labour to replace
- Check steering for signs of rattling or clonking (worn suspension arm bushes, ball joints, steering rack bolts, tie rod ends or ARBS)
- Check interior door panels and switches for peeling rubber coating
- Check aircon and climate work

Mart.

Anything can go wrong with any car. Find one that looks like it looks well looked after. Forum cars are best, but I don't think anyone is selling at the mo. Make sure you keep some back for repairs - a lot of people shift cars when they think something expensive is about to go bang.

gearbox! any sign off a violent kick back walk away!! no one told me this when i bought mine have a look on YouTube for rs6 acceleration it should be smooth all the way round the rev range

But not too smooth. There's one on YouTube with a properly slipping box. It's the one with the MTM exhaust.