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Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 1:22 pm
by bam_bam
So I pulled the wheels off on the weekend and noticed the front off-side had a healthy spray of 'something'. Upon further investigation I noticed the CV boot had split. It mustn't have been long ago as the grease coating the barrel on the wheel and the rest of the arch still looked green, besides, I didn't noticed it two weeks ago when I had the wheel off. No biggy I thought.
However, when putting the wheel back on, I managed to strip the thread on the McGuard locking bolt* (it seems impossible as I use wheel hangers). It now just spins freely but I can't get it out. It's my fault, I hung the wheel and then the first bolt I grabbed was the McGuard. It didn't go in straight but I gave it a couple of turns anyways (yep, a genius move on my behalf). I didn't think anything of it until I'd tightened everything else and circled back to tighten the McGuard. It didn't get any tighter, it just sat there and spun while looking back at me, mocking me with that silent "told you so" that a battle-axe wife uses to stare down a hen-pecked husband. I'm going to try again after the car has sat for 24hrs and everything is nice and cold, I can’t think of any other way at the moment, it's on there pretty solid.
So... multi-part question:
How long would a CV boot replacement take?
Is it worth doing both sides?
Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.
* Please note that the bolt thread is knackered, not the locking 'face'. I use the McGuard SL model with the hardened free spinning protection ring... and yes, I know the locking bolt should be the first to come off and last to go on.
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 1:51 pm
by Golfather
It won't help your situation but McGuard bolts are <beep> !
OEM locking bolts FTW....
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:08 pm
by PhilT
golfather wrote:It won't help your situation but McGuard bolts are <beep> !
OEM locking bolts FTW....
Couldn't agree more
bam_bam wrote:Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.
Book the car in for the CV boots on both sides and make it someone else's problem to get the bolt out

Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:10 pm
by bam_bam
I can't use OEM. These have been fine until now and this was user error. I could've just as easy threaded the OEM the way I did it, just stupid really. Besides, the OEM aren't secure. You can just smash a socket onto them, no need for a key.
These McGuard's are the SL version with a free spinning hardened face. I've not had a problem with key, it still works fine. I may question the bolt shaft material though, I need to see what it's has done once/if it's off.
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:22 pm
by Shoppinit
PhilT wrote:golfather wrote:It won't help your situation but McGuard bolts are <beep> !
OEM locking bolts FTW....
Couldn't agree more
bam_bam wrote:Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.
Book the car in for the CV boots on both sides and make it someone else's problem to get the bolt out

You can get locking wheel nut remover tools for about £8. Look on ebay or google.
I also almost get stuck with McGuard bolts. Luckily I managed to get the bolts out before its heared. They went straight back to the shop for a refund. Not fit for purpose.
DO both CV boots. They tend to go at the same time. It's not a difficult job, or particularly expensive. If they've just started leaking then you should be OK.
I discovered mine like this:

Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 2:29 pm
by Golfather
OEM C5 locking bolts are not the only ones available to use on your car.
You could try bolts from other ranges such as the C6, which have a totally different, and much better design of locking head.
The problem with the McGuards may not be their security design, its the soft metal that they use which lets them down. They tend to shear/cross thread far too easily. Get rid and go OEM !
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:00 pm
by bam_bam
Can't use the C6. I need a 60º conical seat of a certain length.
Just spoke to someone
here, if the thread is stripped it should be easy to press off. I suspect the C6 discs will be holding this bolt in place as they drop down (no center ring). I just need to line everything up then pick the car up, turn it on its side and shake it loose. Easy.
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:25 pm
by scottishv8owner
The McGard bolts are a problem waiting to happen. Just been through this trama with my Volvo You'll need to find a garage that has a specialised kit like this one
http://www.lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/
The bolts with the rim that spins cannot be taken out with thw cheapo removal tools that come from Halfords or ebay, it needs the full monty kit.
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 6:45 pm
by bam_bam
scottishv8owner wrote:The McGard bolts are a problem waiting to happen. Just been through this trama with my Volvo You'll need to find a garage that has a specialised kit like this one
http://www.lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/
The bolts with the rim that spins cannot be taken out with thw cheapo removal tools that come from Halfords or ebay, it needs the full monty kit.
Nah, I just spoke to those guys as per my prevous post. Even that kit won't help a threaded bolt.
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 7:02 pm
by Golfather
You might end up having to chisel it off or get it drilled out. Take it to a garage.... and hope they don't fek the rim

Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 8:58 pm
by chunky79
Cv boot should take just over an hour. Took me just over3 due to me not being able to get to joint off and having to use a puller. Grizz said the cv joint should be knocked off easily with a copper hide hammer and Mikeyquattro has done one using the same method.
dunc
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:01 am
by Billiemapped
Hmmmm I had to have the nearside CV boot replaced due to it being split picked up while being serviced last week, is this a common fault or fast becoming one

Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:09 am
by bam_bam
Yeah, it's pretty common. It got me thinking too. Why not make these boots out of silicone, would that not stop them failing like this?
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:14 am
by philroach
Shoppinit wrote:PhilT wrote:golfather wrote:It won't help your situation but McGuard bolts are <beep> !
OEM locking bolts FTW....
Couldn't agree more
bam_bam wrote:Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.
Book the car in for the CV boots on both sides and make it someone else's problem to get the bolt out

You can get locking wheel nut remover tools for about £8. Look on ebay or google.
I also almost get stuck with McGuard bolts. Luckily I managed to get the bolts out before its heared. They went straight back to the shop for a refund. Not fit for purpose.
DO both CV boots. They tend to go at the same time. It's not a difficult job, or particularly expensive. If they've just started leaking then you should be OK.
I discovered mine like this:

what is the part ( the arm ? ) you have circled in red , seems to be clipped very loosely at the bottom on my car , can move clip with finger ??
Re: Boots n' bolts
Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:36 am
by bam_bam
I think that's the headlight auto level. I'm sure
Shop will be along soon to answer your Q.