Boots n' bolts
Boots n' bolts
So I pulled the wheels off on the weekend and noticed the front off-side had a healthy spray of 'something'. Upon further investigation I noticed the CV boot had split. It mustn't have been long ago as the grease coating the barrel on the wheel and the rest of the arch still looked green, besides, I didn't noticed it two weeks ago when I had the wheel off. No biggy I thought.
However, when putting the wheel back on, I managed to strip the thread on the McGuard locking bolt* (it seems impossible as I use wheel hangers). It now just spins freely but I can't get it out. It's my fault, I hung the wheel and then the first bolt I grabbed was the McGuard. It didn't go in straight but I gave it a couple of turns anyways (yep, a genius move on my behalf). I didn't think anything of it until I'd tightened everything else and circled back to tighten the McGuard. It didn't get any tighter, it just sat there and spun while looking back at me, mocking me with that silent "told you so" that a battle-axe wife uses to stare down a hen-pecked husband. I'm going to try again after the car has sat for 24hrs and everything is nice and cold, I can’t think of any other way at the moment, it's on there pretty solid.
So... multi-part question:
How long would a CV boot replacement take?
Is it worth doing both sides?
Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.
* Please note that the bolt thread is knackered, not the locking 'face'. I use the McGuard SL model with the hardened free spinning protection ring... and yes, I know the locking bolt should be the first to come off and last to go on.
However, when putting the wheel back on, I managed to strip the thread on the McGuard locking bolt* (it seems impossible as I use wheel hangers). It now just spins freely but I can't get it out. It's my fault, I hung the wheel and then the first bolt I grabbed was the McGuard. It didn't go in straight but I gave it a couple of turns anyways (yep, a genius move on my behalf). I didn't think anything of it until I'd tightened everything else and circled back to tighten the McGuard. It didn't get any tighter, it just sat there and spun while looking back at me, mocking me with that silent "told you so" that a battle-axe wife uses to stare down a hen-pecked husband. I'm going to try again after the car has sat for 24hrs and everything is nice and cold, I can’t think of any other way at the moment, it's on there pretty solid.
So... multi-part question:
How long would a CV boot replacement take?
Is it worth doing both sides?
Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.
* Please note that the bolt thread is knackered, not the locking 'face'. I use the McGuard SL model with the hardened free spinning protection ring... and yes, I know the locking bolt should be the first to come off and last to go on.
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Re: Boots n' bolts
It won't help your situation but McGuard bolts are <beep> !
OEM locking bolts FTW....
OEM locking bolts FTW....
Re: Boots n' bolts
Couldn't agree moregolfather wrote:It won't help your situation but McGuard bolts are <beep> !
OEM locking bolts FTW....

Book the car in for the CV boots on both sides and make it someone else's problem to get the bolt outbam_bam wrote:Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.

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Re: Boots n' bolts
I can't use OEM. These have been fine until now and this was user error. I could've just as easy threaded the OEM the way I did it, just stupid really. Besides, the OEM aren't secure. You can just smash a socket onto them, no need for a key.
These McGuard's are the SL version with a free spinning hardened face. I've not had a problem with key, it still works fine. I may question the bolt shaft material though, I need to see what it's has done once/if it's off.
These McGuard's are the SL version with a free spinning hardened face. I've not had a problem with key, it still works fine. I may question the bolt shaft material though, I need to see what it's has done once/if it's off.
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Re: Boots n' bolts
You can get locking wheel nut remover tools for about £8. Look on ebay or google.PhilT wrote:Couldn't agree moregolfather wrote:It won't help your situation but McGuard bolts are <beep> !
OEM locking bolts FTW....
Book the car in for the CV boots on both sides and make it someone else's problem to get the bolt outbam_bam wrote:Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.
I also almost get stuck with McGuard bolts. Luckily I managed to get the bolts out before its heared. They went straight back to the shop for a refund. Not fit for purpose.
DO both CV boots. They tend to go at the same time. It's not a difficult job, or particularly expensive. If they've just started leaking then you should be OK.
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Re: Boots n' bolts
OEM C5 locking bolts are not the only ones available to use on your car.
You could try bolts from other ranges such as the C6, which have a totally different, and much better design of locking head.
The problem with the McGuards may not be their security design, its the soft metal that they use which lets them down. They tend to shear/cross thread far too easily. Get rid and go OEM !
You could try bolts from other ranges such as the C6, which have a totally different, and much better design of locking head.
The problem with the McGuards may not be their security design, its the soft metal that they use which lets them down. They tend to shear/cross thread far too easily. Get rid and go OEM !
Re: Boots n' bolts
Can't use the C6. I need a 60º conical seat of a certain length.
Just spoke to someone here, if the thread is stripped it should be easy to press off. I suspect the C6 discs will be holding this bolt in place as they drop down (no center ring). I just need to line everything up then pick the car up, turn it on its side and shake it loose. Easy.
Just spoke to someone here, if the thread is stripped it should be easy to press off. I suspect the C6 discs will be holding this bolt in place as they drop down (no center ring). I just need to line everything up then pick the car up, turn it on its side and shake it loose. Easy.
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Re: Boots n' bolts
The McGard bolts are a problem waiting to happen. Just been through this trama with my Volvo You'll need to find a garage that has a specialised kit like this one
http://www.lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/
The bolts with the rim that spins cannot be taken out with thw cheapo removal tools that come from Halfords or ebay, it needs the full monty kit.
http://www.lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/
The bolts with the rim that spins cannot be taken out with thw cheapo removal tools that come from Halfords or ebay, it needs the full monty kit.
Re: Boots n' bolts
Nah, I just spoke to those guys as per my prevous post. Even that kit won't help a threaded bolt.scottishv8owner wrote:The McGard bolts are a problem waiting to happen. Just been through this trama with my Volvo You'll need to find a garage that has a specialised kit like this one
http://www.lockingwheelnutremover.co.uk/
The bolts with the rim that spins cannot be taken out with thw cheapo removal tools that come from Halfords or ebay, it needs the full monty kit.
No matter where you go, there you are.
Re: Boots n' bolts
You might end up having to chisel it off or get it drilled out. Take it to a garage.... and hope they don't fek the rim 

Re: Boots n' bolts
Cv boot should take just over an hour. Took me just over3 due to me not being able to get to joint off and having to use a puller. Grizz said the cv joint should be knocked off easily with a copper hide hammer and Mikeyquattro has done one using the same method.
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Re: Boots n' bolts
Hmmmm I had to have the nearside CV boot replaced due to it being split picked up while being serviced last week, is this a common fault or fast becoming one 

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Re: Boots n' bolts
Yeah, it's pretty common. It got me thinking too. Why not make these boots out of silicone, would that not stop them failing like this?
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Re: Boots n' bolts
what is the part ( the arm ? ) you have circled in red , seems to be clipped very loosely at the bottom on my car , can move clip with finger ??Shoppinit wrote:You can get locking wheel nut remover tools for about £8. Look on ebay or google.PhilT wrote:Couldn't agree moregolfather wrote:It won't help your situation but McGuard bolts are <beep> !
OEM locking bolts FTW....
Book the car in for the CV boots on both sides and make it someone else's problem to get the bolt outbam_bam wrote:Any other thoughts on how to get this McGuard bolt out? I think it'll be very hard to replace a CV boot without removing the wheel.
I also almost get stuck with McGuard bolts. Luckily I managed to get the bolts out before its heared. They went straight back to the shop for a refund. Not fit for purpose.
DO both CV boots. They tend to go at the same time. It's not a difficult job, or particularly expensive. If they've just started leaking then you should be OK.
I discovered mine like this:
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Used to have : C5 Daytona Avant , silver leather , carbon inserts ; RNSE, TV in motion, Bluetooth , well filled SD card slots ; PSS9's ; Hotchkiss ARB's ; Miltek cat back res ; Wagner intercoolers ; Phaeton brake ducts ; forge DV's ;
Re: Boots n' bolts
I think that's the headlight auto level. I'm sure Shop will be along soon to answer your Q.
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