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Hi does anybody here have experience with replacing both valve cover gaskets on the C5 RS6 cars or videos also etc? Thanks so much in advance

The right hand cover is pretty easy to do. ( looking from the front of the car)

The left hand one is much harder, there is the water pipe to contend with plus the shape of the cover over the chain tensioner makes it a right pita to get off.

Not impossible, but takes some work.

Yeah, the water pipe has a bolt under the valve cover, remove it and move the pipe carefully out if the way enough to get the cover off. On same side it helps to remove the fuel line along with the fuel rail (first pictures, last one is with the fuel rail partially loosened ). Combi valve as well, but it’s a pain to put back. I cut a Allen wrench to fit in there…

Hello thanks for the info and pictures, is there any videos here of how do you this or any video showing it being done etc?

shipsmaster wrote: ↑

Tue May 06, 2025 1:03 pm

Hello thanks for the info and pictures, is there any videos here of how do you this or any video showing it being done etc?

Lad from the "Not economically Viable" YT channel did it. I wouldn't use it as a reference, but it gives an idea.

https://youtu.be/7q7beKU7x8A?si=PXvnCr27rfnLD5Rh&t=2116

There’s quite a few how to videos on line.
Google “how to change rocker cover gaskets on a 2003 Audi rs6 c5.”

I had both my rocker cover gaskets done a few months ago.
I am still kicking myself, as I missed the opportunity to review and inspect my cam chains and tensioners.

I am trying to convince myself that the garage would have checked them. If they had found anything that wasn’t right they would have informed me.
Must remember to ask them when the car is in this Thursday.

I am currently in the process of doing this myself, a couple quick questions, the bolt for the water pipe, does anyone have a picture of where its at? I have tried searching the web and can not find any good information on it. Do you have to put the car in service mode to reach it? Also, kind of a dumb question, but after removing the 4 bolts holding the fuel rail in and disconnecting the pipes, do it just pull out with the injectors attached? I feel like its really stuck in there any dont feel like breaking anything....yet

You can loosen the back 2 bolts holding the fuel rail enough to have some play, but to answer your question yes, there are 3 Allen bolts plus one ground nut/bolts setups to remove if you want to remove the entire fuel rail. The service manual calls for new rubber seals if you remove the injectors. I would definitely blow some compressed air before you remove the rail and clean all the injectors/seals/seat holes really well (I used a sound wave machine for cleaning jewelry to clean the injectors) after you remove them. Or you can use a small brush (old toothbrush) with clean gasoline (petrol in U.K. I believe) to clean everything . Also use engine oil on the injector seals prior to re-install for ease and per service manual
Anyway here’s a picture of the bolt… engine is removed, no exhaust manifold and other bits in the way (just for picture reference, and no need to put car is service mode for valve covers I don’t think as I did a full service with timing belt so the end was off but come to think of it maybe you can get away without).

oh perfect, thank you.

Has anyone had luck just replacing the solenoid on the timing chain tensioner instead of replacing the whole assembly?
My chain guides seem pretty good, but the solenoid itself seems to be shot. Not measuring any OHMS. So I would like to avoid removing camshafts if possible.

There is a video online of "superron" doing this to his on car.

I think it's this one.
https://youtu.be/GqklfIIfzz0?si=kyXlb9pv9VmKkdc7