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Changed stereo. It's wired according to instructions and it's forgetting the settings so each time I go back to the car it's lost them and it's back into demo mode.

I have a feeling the old one started being weird in this regard as bluetooth stopped reconnecting when I got back in the car.

Now I wonder whether the difference is down to whether the car is locked or unlocked when it's left? I generally leave it unlocked but with the window slightly down as the battery conditioner is plugged in as it could be weeks or months between uses.

I'm assuming I can leave it locked instead? It's inside a garage so it's unlikely the alarm will be set off by movement unless a really fat moth flies in the window.

I think I started leaving it unlocked as the key was a bit stupid so I thought it was better to have it unlocked and accessible.

Any thoughts on whether this might be the reason for the odd behaviour?

Don't think it's anything to do with the car being locked or not.

The OE stereo is wired to permanent 12V and is switched on when another circuit goes live via the ignition switch. The permanent 12V going to the RNS-D is the red/yellow wire from the 20A fuse.

How have you wired your new stereo? If it's to the X relief line then it'll go off with the ignition.

It's wired up according to the instructions. It only goes off when the key is taken out if you have been using the car not when ignition is only turned off. It comes on when turning the ignition to on.

It's another Kenwood so it's been wired in the same to how the old unit was.

There's definitely something odd going on.

Are there any control modules that can go stupid and make this sort of thing happen?

You would see that behaviour if the power was wired to the X relief circuit, too.

Can you post the instructions here?

The pdf manual has the installation instructions right at the end. The original ones are god knows where. They were basically the same but had the mention of VAG being the other way round.

https://manual.kenwood.com/en_contents/ ... oad/101419

Looks like it uses a standard ISO connector for power. Was that the one that was used for the previous head unit?

I would remove the head unit and test to see if A4 is getting permanant 12V and A7 is getting 12V when the ignition is on/key in.

From what I can see, on the RNS-D ISO connector the ACC is going to pin 4 whereas on the Kenwood pin 4 is expecting permanent 12V.

Shoppinit wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 08, 2023 3:04 pm

Looks like it uses a standard ISO connector for power. Was that the one that was used for the previous head unit?

I would remove the head unit and test to see if A4 is getting permanant 12V and A7 is getting 12V when the ignition is on/key in.

From what I can see, on the RNS-D ISO connector the ACC is going to pin 4 whereas on the Kenwood pin 4 is expecting permanent 12V.

It is the same block as far as I remember. It was put in months ago and then I never used the car since the day it was installed until this week.

I'll get the pins checked. Thanks. That information helps a lot. It may be a few weeks as I will need the grown up to help that helped with the install as I'm a muppet with anything like this

Could be that the old stereo stored settings in flash memory but this one doesn’t. Just an idea.

I will contact Kenwood support as well. They have been helpful in the past.

It doesn't mention the issue in the troubleshooting section either.

I remember people have had issues with the RNS-D when water infiltration had caused corrosion on a connector under the carpet. That caused the RNS-D to go into SAFE mode.

This:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=134413&p=934451#p934451

Shoppinit wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 09, 2023 9:15 am

I remember people have had issues with the RNS-D when water infiltration had caused corrosion on a connector under the carpet. That caused the RNS-D to go into SAFE mode.

It's garaged so unlikely but it's another thing to add to the list.

Aarrggghh. Possibly fixed it. What a maul. It was correct at the stereo end as it were but was swapped further up and I don't think we tested whether settings stuck after the courtesy lights go out which of course is when the switched live goes off.

The wires are hard to follow as they split off into two clumps. Hoping this fixes it as the alternative problem of the connector under the seat I don't want to think about.

Sounds like you’re on the way to sorting it out.

Checked it today. It's not back in demo mode which is another step in the right direction