On my quest to tidy up the underside of the car I came across, what was kindly identified by Shop, the DCR coupling (25) that was attached to a bracket I want to get powder coated (13/14). Coupling 25 is rather rusty so it’s my intention to remove that coupling and line (10&11) back to the next coupling (26), as I imagine it would be impossible to replace 25 without cutting lines 10&11 up anyway.
https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+rs6+r ... 16-616030/
So my question is does this sound sensible/achievable and where would I find coupling no 26 or would replacing 25 be a better solution? I don’t really want to leave 25 in place as I’m not sure what the consequences of 25 failing could be (and it looks awful).
DCR pipework
Re: DCR pipework
The system could well still be under pressure. Those couplings contain valves that allow you to remove a shock without depressurising the system.
If I wanted to replace just that valve, then I would start by making a visit to some places that specialise in hydraulics. Like flexible hoses for mini-diggers and the like. Or contact a company like this to see if they can recognise it:
https://www.htsspares.com/catalogue/hos ... -couplings
I believe KYB manufactures the DRC system.
If I wanted to replace just that valve, then I would start by making a visit to some places that specialise in hydraulics. Like flexible hoses for mini-diggers and the like. Or contact a company like this to see if they can recognise it:
https://www.htsspares.com/catalogue/hos ... -couplings
I believe KYB manufactures the DRC system.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: DCR pipework
Or depressurise (extremely carefully, of course), cut the pipe, cap it and worry about it the day you decide to put the DRC back on.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: DCR pipework
Great, thanks.
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Re: DCR pipework
Did not know this was possible! I'll have to look into that now. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!Shoppinit wrote:The system could well still be under pressure. Those couplings contain valves that allow you to remove a shock without depressurising the system.
If I wanted to replace just that valve, then I would start by making a visit to some places that specialise in hydraulics. Like flexible hoses for mini-diggers and the like. Or contact a company like this to see if they can recognise it:
https://www.htsspares.com/catalogue/hos ... -couplings
I believe KYB manufactures the DRC system.
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