Safe to start
Safe to start
Hi guys
As some of you know my RS has been laid up for a few months (maybe 4) waiting for the new suspension to arrive. I’ve just been told that Bilstein have pushed the date back another month so now not expected until end of May.
My car is up on axel stands without the front coilovers fitted.
Would it be safe to start the car in the position? I’m worried that even in park there might be some rotation of the drive as it’s not under load.
As some of you know my RS has been laid up for a few months (maybe 4) waiting for the new suspension to arrive. I’ve just been told that Bilstein have pushed the date back another month so now not expected until end of May.
My car is up on axel stands without the front coilovers fitted.
Would it be safe to start the car in the position? I’m worried that even in park there might be some rotation of the drive as it’s not under load.
Re: Safe to start
Will be fine to start mate I’ve done it loads of times in fact both times I’ve pulled the engine I always let it sit and idle like that for an hour just to see if there’s any problems or leaks-I would pull the fuel pump and ignition fuses and let the oil pressure build before starting if it’s been sat that long as the chains might eat the padsChrisA wrote:Hi guys
As some of you know my RS has been laid up for a few months (maybe 4) waiting for the new suspension to arrive. I’ve just been told that Bilstein have pushed the date back another month so now not expected until end of May.
My car is up on axel stands without the front coilovers fitted.
Would it be safe to start the car in the position? I’m worried that even in park there might be some rotation of the drive as it’s not under load.
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c5 rs6 owner thats been known to cut the wrong wire.............
Re: Safe to start
^what he said
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Safe to start
Thanks guys. So it’s not a problem that the coilovers aren’t attached.
Where will I find the ignition fuses?
Where will I find the ignition fuses?
Re: Safe to start
In the fuse box on the side of the dash when you open the driver’s door. Fuse 29 IIRC.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Safe to start
Maybe an option to start after months of not running with the fuse bypass method, to have the oilpressure and oil on top of engine and other parts without a layer of oil due to not running, ok?
Mine hasnt been runnihhg for half a year me thinks, but i cant get at the fusebox because of a narrow garage. Maybe i can pull the car outside to get to it and pull the fuse before starting.
Or is there another method besides the fusebox?
With the kindest regards.
Mine hasnt been runnihhg for half a year me thinks, but i cant get at the fusebox because of a narrow garage. Maybe i can pull the car outside to get to it and pull the fuse before starting.
Or is there another method besides the fusebox?
With the kindest regards.
Last edited by mavada on Sat Apr 30, 2022 6:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If you can't go to the track, bring the track to you.
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Re: Safe to start
Where you been hiding, Mav?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Safe to start
Yes, life can be a bitch at times....
If you can't go to the track, bring the track to you.
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Re: Safe to start
You could disconnect the fuel pump under the rear bench seat.
Or disconnect all the injectors.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Safe to start
Thanks Ben, i think its easier to pull the 6 outside and have the fuse method installed after that
If you can't go to the track, bring the track to you.
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Mugello Blue C5 RS6 Avant
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU
MTM Bimoto wheels 9,5 x 19 ET 30 LK 5x112 with 275/30/19 tyres
MTM exhaust system cat back 4-pipe with throttle valves in 2 pipes, control
Yellow Koni's
Porsche 959, gone but not forgotten.
Fight ALS disease https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGFDWTC8B8g
Re: Safe to start
I'm absolutely not convinced by this pulling the fuse and cranking on the starter motor thing. Does anyone have lab evidence to back this up?
Why do I dispute it?
"Gear" Oil pumps are not constant displacement. They need to run with a bit of speed to both flow a good amount of oil and hold some pressure
That not all lubrication in the engine is provided by the pump. The pistons & cylinders are lubed by "splash" from the crank. Older V8's get the cam lubed like this too.
The the low oil pressure of cranking doesn't really get much oil flowing into all the nooks and crannies
That it's not actual oil pressure holding the big ends off the crank (think about it, 60psi is nothing compared the the reciprocating loads on a big end!) anyway.
That you need a lot more speed than that to pump up a lifter - you've trying to create a cyclic load on the lifters to encourage them to pump - not enough tappety tap to get them to pump up at cranking speed anyway
So I've always taken a view that rather than crank for 30s until the light goes out, just fire the motor up to a fast idle as quickly as possible.
On a big block V8 with flat tappets (old school), this is especially critical - if you wind a new build over on the starter too long, I can guarantee you'll knacker the lifters and the cam. 100% guaranteed.
Why do I dispute it?
"Gear" Oil pumps are not constant displacement. They need to run with a bit of speed to both flow a good amount of oil and hold some pressure
That not all lubrication in the engine is provided by the pump. The pistons & cylinders are lubed by "splash" from the crank. Older V8's get the cam lubed like this too.
The the low oil pressure of cranking doesn't really get much oil flowing into all the nooks and crannies
That it's not actual oil pressure holding the big ends off the crank (think about it, 60psi is nothing compared the the reciprocating loads on a big end!) anyway.
That you need a lot more speed than that to pump up a lifter - you've trying to create a cyclic load on the lifters to encourage them to pump - not enough tappety tap to get them to pump up at cranking speed anyway
So I've always taken a view that rather than crank for 30s until the light goes out, just fire the motor up to a fast idle as quickly as possible.
On a big block V8 with flat tappets (old school), this is especially critical - if you wind a new build over on the starter too long, I can guarantee you'll knacker the lifters and the cam. 100% guaranteed.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Safe to start
It’s recommended in the Aston Martin user manual apparently. Good enough for me.
https://aston1936.com/2018/12/14/how-to ... n-db9/amp/
https://aston1936.files.wordpress.com/2 ... cedure.pdf
https://aston1936.com/2018/12/14/how-to ... n-db9/amp/
https://aston1936.files.wordpress.com/2 ... cedure.pdf
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Safe to start
Yeah, but don't they have a dry sump setup, or something similarly non-conventional? You can't just fill it with oil and check the dipstick, IIRC?
Has it just become an urban myth that's never been tested?
On the flip side - guaranteeing to wipe out a cam lobe if you crank a big block on the starter (I know people that have done it) gives me direct evidence to the contrary. Surely one of those mags have actually done some proper analysis?
Has it just become an urban myth that's never been tested?
On the flip side - guaranteeing to wipe out a cam lobe if you crank a big block on the starter (I know people that have done it) gives me direct evidence to the contrary. Surely one of those mags have actually done some proper analysis?
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Safe to start
The DB7 has a wet sump and the procedure in the user manual is the same.
What happens if your big block has a problem that prevents it from firing up? Does it lunch itself every time you try to turn it over? I just don't see it.
I am totally relaxed about turning the engine over on the starter motor. Let's hope I'm not wrong.
What happens if your big block has a problem that prevents it from firing up? Does it lunch itself every time you try to turn it over? I just don't see it.
I am totally relaxed about turning the engine over on the starter motor. Let's hope I'm not wrong.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Safe to start
Mine personally, no, I fitted hydraulic roller lifters.
But yeah, first start after build on a traditional big block is quite nerve wracking because if you don't get it fired up and up to 2K RPM AQAFP, you're guaranteed to lose a lobe. So minor carburation or ignition issue and you're immediately in the <beep>. Needs a combo of the cyclic loads on the tappets to get them to spin, combined with lots of oil flinging off the crank at the cam, for the first 30 minutes or so.
But yeah, first start after build on a traditional big block is quite nerve wracking because if you don't get it fired up and up to 2K RPM AQAFP, you're guaranteed to lose a lobe. So minor carburation or ignition issue and you're immediately in the <beep>. Needs a combo of the cyclic loads on the tappets to get them to spin, combined with lots of oil flinging off the crank at the cam, for the first 30 minutes or so.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
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