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Background

• There's no such thing as a simple job on the RS. There's just jobs you can do engine in and jobs you can't.
• This is an engine in job and therefore in RS terms, beginner level.
• The replacement pump is TRW part number JPR725. Including the rebate, this works out at about £150
• TRW are not the OE, but they make lots of OE parts so I tend to trust their quality.
• There are other even cheaper brands - I'm not familiar with them.

The symptoms

• Alternator Light coming on
• Voltmeter going down to 12 volt
• Loud whining noise from the belt as the PS pump locks up.
• Limited or intermittent power assist - heavy steering
• Make sure squeeling is not caused by the AC load - hit the ECON button. If the squeeling goes away, including on full lock, then it's likely not your PS pump. I now know this.

Preparation

• Pop the car up on the ramps, and threaten it with the new pump.
• This will inevitably cause the existing pump to shut up and run smooth as a nut.
• Do not pay attention to it. It will feck you over the moment your back is turned.

Get the lock carrier into the service position. I shan't cover the detail of it here, but the summary is:

• Remove tray
• Remove wheel shrouds
• Remove 6x bumper side bolts
• Remove 2x bumper centre bolts
• Disconnect 5x electrical connections and 1x washer hose
• Disconnect upper and lower coolant hoses - OS
• Disconnect PS hoses - lower OS
• Disconnect recirc coolant hose from solenoid and unbolt solenoid (yellow plastic thing. 2x M10 nuts). Maybe swear at the devils hose clip too.
• Undo inlet duct nuts
• Put service pins in.
• Undo 2x torx bolts holding AC pipe that runs across the bottom of the lock carrier. DO NOT disconnect the AC pipe or you'll have to recharge the system
• You also don't need to disconnect any of the oil (engine or gearbox) hoses.
• Undo Lock Carrier bolts and slide lock carrier forward.
• I timed it. This is exactly 1 hour 10 minutes work.

Removal

• Next, remove the "Charge Pipe" and the NS top intercooler hose - no.s 31 & 25.
• Don't forget the charge pipe has 4 bolts - 5mm hex key needed.

• Now loosen the 3 PS pump pullet bolts - easier while the aux belt is still attached.
• Remove the Aux belt (19mm socket or spanner on the tensioner).
• Remember to note the route of the belt.
• Getting there - you can now see the pump

• Next, remove the hoses from the pump.
• The upper hose takes a 22 mm socket and can be accessed from above with a 1/2 ratchet and extension
• The lower hose is a 24 mm socket and needs a UJ on the socket and then the extension.
• You can also access the lower hose from the top, after removing the 22mm banjo bolt and tieing the house out the way. Up to you.
• Tie both hoses out of the way.

• 3 more bolts to go. WooHoo.
• Slacken off the 2 bolts on the front of the PS housing

• Finally, undo the bastard bolt (green). This is hidden right down at the back of the PS pump.

• The ONLY tool that works here is a 13mm ratchet spanner. If you don't have one, go and buy a set from halfords now. They are brilliant.

• It's out!

Installation

• Installation is basically the reverse of removal.
• Loosely install the front bolts on the pump first, then install the rear one. Even with the ratchet, this is one click at a time, so requires patience.
• Don't forget to refill and bleed the cooling system and refill the PS reservoir with CHF-11S.
• You probably forgot to note the aux belt route. Here's a reminder:

First Start

• Fire up the motor and promptly turn the wheel full lock each way
• Car is still up on axle stands at this point - wheels in air. Also shrouds, tray and bumper not back on yet in case you have a leak that needs tweaking
• Turn off the motor.
• Allow the foam in the PS tank to settle and refill.
• Fire up again - it'll probably foam up again as you turn lock to lock and top up the PS tank.
• If it gets too foamy, just turn the motor off and have a cup of coffee to let it settle - it only takes a few minutes.
• Once done, congratulate yourself on saving a few hundred pounds of labour - the whole job can be done for just over £150

Great tutorial. We had this discussion about tools, special and otherwise. You can never have enough.

Amazing How To. Many thanks!

Great write up / pics Matt.
Well done.

Nice. Might be worth clarifying that the front wheels need to be in the air when you turn lock to lock. It's implied, but probably best to specify.

Done.

Rad, thanks so much for sharing your DIY!

Hi all, I just wanted to add a little but to this awesome DIY.

#1 regarding the bastard 13mm bolt at the rear of the pump, there isnt much room between the head of the bolt and the engine block. I bought a set of ratchet spanners, but lo the 13mm spanner couldn't fit over the head of the bolt due to the block interference.
You can use a std 13mm spanner, flat by flat, alternating the ring end and the open end.

#2 I split the pump to see what I could see. Can't see anything, not sure what to look for. Anyway pump whine and/or failure could be the vanes, or vane housing being worn, or the orifices that push the vanes against the housing, possibly worn and no longer applying enough pressure to the vanes to hold them at clearance - or however these things work. Lastly perhaps the oddly shaped internal seal could be bleeding pressure to the wrong part of the pump.

I will take the worn pump to a specialist to see what they think as I'm curious if these can be repaired, if so I'll repair the worn pump and keep it.

What brand ratchets did you get? Mine are Halfords Pro.

Mɐʇʇ wrote: ↑

Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:32 am

What brand ratchets did you get? Mine are Halfords Pro.

Supercheap Auto - an automotive chain here in Australasia. Not the best quality but the ring is just a smidge too thick.

Some great techs on here. Oh how I wish I had your skills and patience.
Lost loads of spanner’s I have pelted when ripping my hand to shreds cos the spanner slipped off.
And I have a collection of golf clubs that are in half after playing a crap shot.
As I say just wish I was blessed with patience.

Update: finished putting the 2nd hand pump in yesterday. Went through the bleeding procedure as per ELSA, but due to the late hour and the fact that the car is pointing the wrong way (garage is under the house) I stopped after 2 cycles of lock to lock with engine on, with a few minutes of settling between
Fluid was foaming and pump loud. I'm not holding out hope for this pump, despite the seller adamant that it was quiet before removal. Anyway I'll keep trying to bleed the pump, but I spotted a seal kit that looks like it'll work in our pumps.

Gates 348424

I spotted the kit (BMW part) while watching an e32 restoration on YouTube, M359 restorations, great channel. The Gates part number is the alternative to BMW genuine.

I'll order it in case this 2nd hand pump is cactus, rebuild my old one (wasn't this loud) and see. Yes I could buy a new one but the masochist in me wants to see of a seal kit will fix the noise.

Earlier in year the only pump I could find was GENERAL RICAMBI Power steering pump through autodoc.
Was cheap (currently £118) and works, but is noisy and I wouldn't recommed this brand.
Would like to get my original ZF pump rebuilt, can anyone recommend a company to do this in UK?

I couldn't find a ZF one, but I did get a TRW remanufactured one : https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2199904
It was fine.

Mɐʇʇ wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 31, 2021 1:37 pm

I couldn't find a ZF one, but I did get a TRW remanufactured one : https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/2199904
It was fine.

Matt, thanks unfortunately at the time wasn't able to get anything else.
Wondered if I could get my own old one remanufactured in UK.
Sending anything to EU is not worth the hassle, so I didn't bother send it back to autodoc.
Inferior parts often are a false economy, on this occasion I didn't haver a choice. It works but squeaks, at least until the Millteck drowns it out!

Or where can I get the kit for DIY?