- There's no such thing as a simple job on the RS. There's just jobs you can do engine in and jobs you can't.
- This is an engine in job and therefore in RS terms, beginner level.
- The replacement pump is TRW part number JPR725. Including the rebate, this works out at about £150
- TRW are not the OE, but they make lots of OE parts so I tend to trust their quality.
- There are other even cheaper brands - I'm not familiar with them.
- Alternator Light coming on
- Voltmeter going down to 12 volt
- Loud whining noise from the belt as the PS pump locks up.
- Limited or intermittent power assist - heavy steering
- Make sure squeeling is not caused by the AC load - hit the ECON button. If the squeeling goes away, including on full lock, then it's likely not your PS pump. I now know this.
- Pop the car up on the ramps, and threaten it with the new pump.
- This will inevitably cause the existing pump to shut up and run smooth as a nut.
- Do not pay attention to it. It will feck you over the moment your back is turned.
- Remove tray
- Remove wheel shrouds
- Remove 6x bumper side bolts
- Remove 2x bumper centre bolts
- Disconnect 5x electrical connections and 1x washer hose
- Disconnect upper and lower coolant hoses - OS
- Disconnect PS hoses - lower OS
- Disconnect recirc coolant hose from solenoid and unbolt solenoid (yellow plastic thing. 2x M10 nuts). Maybe swear at the devils hose clip too.
- Undo inlet duct nuts
- Put service pins in.
- Undo 2x torx bolts holding AC pipe that runs across the bottom of the lock carrier. DO NOT disconnect the AC pipe or you'll have to recharge the system
- You also don't need to disconnect any of the oil (engine or gearbox) hoses.
- Undo Lock Carrier bolts and slide lock carrier forward.
- I timed it. This is exactly 1 hour 10 minutes work.
Removal
- Next, remove the "Charge Pipe" and the NS top intercooler hose - no.s 31 & 25.
- Don't forget the charge pipe has 4 bolts - 5mm hex key needed.
- Now loosen the 3 PS pump pullet bolts - easier while the aux belt is still attached.
- Remove the Aux belt (19mm socket or spanner on the tensioner).
- Remember to note the route of the belt.
- Getting there - you can now see the pump
- Next, remove the hoses from the pump.
- The upper hose takes a 22 mm socket and can be accessed from above with a 1/2 ratchet and extension
- The lower hose is a 24 mm socket and needs a UJ on the socket and then the extension.
- You can also access the lower hose from the top, after removing the 22mm banjo bolt and tieing the house out the way. Up to you.
- Tie both hoses out of the way.
- 3 more bolts to go. WooHoo.
- Slacken off the 2 bolts on the front of the PS housing
- Finally, undo the bastard bolt (green). This is hidden right down at the back of the PS pump.
- The ONLY tool that works here is a 13mm ratchet spanner. If you don't have one, go and buy a set from halfords now. They are brilliant.
- It's out!
- Installation is basically the reverse of removal.
- Loosely install the front bolts on the pump first, then install the rear one. Even with the ratchet, this is one click at a time, so requires patience.
- Don't forget to refill and bleed the cooling system and refill the PS reservoir with CHF-11S.
- You probably forgot to note the aux belt route. Here's a reminder:
- Fire up the motor and promptly turn the wheel full lock each way
- Car is still up on axle stands at this point - wheels in air. Also shrouds, tray and bumper not back on yet in case you have a leak that needs tweaking
- Turn off the motor.
- Allow the foam in the PS tank to settle and refill.
- Fire up again - it'll probably foam up again as you turn lock to lock and top up the PS tank.
- If it gets too foamy, just turn the motor off and have a cup of coffee to let it settle - it only takes a few minutes.
- Once done, congratulate yourself on saving a few hundred pounds of labour - the whole job can be done for just over £150