VCDS fault codes after clearing

[ChrisA]

So now that I have scanned my car, and taken it for a drive, here are the results from the rescan.

I’ve no idea where to begin to be honest.

[Mark-RS]

Most don't seem to bad.

Tyre pressures, it's likely you don't have sensors in your wheels ? Maybe they have been removed or faulty so the system appears to be switched off so the warnings do not appear on the dash.

TV Tuner ? Mine logs faults also, but has been removed as it's so dated I had no use for it. I have kept it for future sale with the car though as people like original things. Again, not much to worry about in the grand scheme of things.

Central locking could simply be a door lock fault, very common and something most will have at some point.

Gear selection/ABS brakes likely the F125 switch. Not overly hard or expensive to sort.

Only real issue you appear to have is the Control module and on that front I can't really be of any help. Shop, will likely be able to help with that one.

[ChrisA]

Thanks Mark

Tyre pressures, it's likely you don't have sensors in your wheels ? Maybe they have been removed or faulty so the system appears to be switched off so the warnings do not appear on the dash.

I think my sensors have been removed as I’ve tried setting up the TPS and had no joy.

TV Tuner ? Mine logs faults also, but has been removed as it's so dated I had no use for it. I have kept it for future sale with the car though as people like original things. Again, not much to worry about in the grand scheme of things.

No overly concerned about this at the moment as it’s not going to effect the performance of the car.

Central locking could simply be a door lock fault, very common and something most will have at some point.

This is odd as I’ve not had any issues with the doors locking or unlocking.

Gear selection/ABS brakes likely the F125 switch. Not overly hard or expensive to sort.

I’ll get this priced up. I’ve also seen the guide and will look into the possibility of undertaking this myself. Is the car ok to drive with this intermittent fault?

Only real issue you appear to have is the Control module and on that front I can't really be of any help. Shop, will likely be able to help with that one.

@Shop.

[HPsauce]

Just following on from the various comments (including mine) in your other VCDS thread as well, I'd add:
1. Pictures the right way round here, much easier to read.
2. Reasonably consistent replies from a number of people, hope that helps.
3. Try and get a scan from someone with a genuine cable to confirm the errors.

In my experience (and others I know) you can get communication errors and phantom problems from clone cables, so if you're looking at a potentially serious problem a "second opinion" is a wise precaution.

Usually F125 switch problems progress slowly and the car rarely becomes undriveable. Though limp mode can be a bit of a PITA when it occurs.
However mine did lock out totally that long ago, and that was/is a relatively new genuine F125 installed not that many years ago.
Mine was a problem in the circuit that triggers the starter inhibitor relay, bypassed for now by replacing the relay with a dummy.....

[ChrisA]

In my experience (and others I know) you can get communication errors and phantom problems from clone cables, so if you're looking at a potentially serious problem a "second opinion" is a wise precaution.

Sound advice. Thanks.

Usually F125 switch problems progress slowly and the car rarely becomes undriveable. Though limp mode can be a bit of a PITA when it occurs.
However mine did lock out totally that long ago, and that was/is a relatively new genuine F125 installed not that many years ago.
Mine was a problem in the circuit that triggers the starter inhibitor relay, bypassed for now by replacing the relay with a dummy.....

Just to confirm, would my fault on address 3 set of the EML? What are the symptoms?

[HPsauce]

No, the ABS fault (Gear recognition signal) might at worst give a temporary ABS light and/or ABS not available, but probably nothing.
It's usually a secondary symptom of a problem with the F125 switch.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Agreed - I had the same ABS error pop up when my F125 switch failed. Switch itself is cheap - and there is a DIY on replacing it in-situ. The only thing I'd recommend enhancing from the DIY is to consider dropping the rear of the subframe a bit to improve access - although that would necessitate disconnecting a few more bits (exhaust, maybe top coolant hose). It's an option though, if one the GB mount bolts is stuck - I tested access out when I was putting my motor back in. A 40mm packer under the rear subframe mount along with removing the gearbox mounts materiall improves access to that area.

Door lock errors - either microswitches failing or it's had a nearly flat battery since it was last reset in my experience.

[ChrisA]

Agreed - I had the same ABS error pop up when my F125 switch failed. Switch itself is cheap - and there is a DIY on replacing it in-situ. The only thing I'd recommend enhancing from the DIY is to consider dropping the rear of the subframe a bit to improve access - although that would necessitate disconnecting a few more bits (exhaust, maybe top coolant hose). It's an option though, if one the GB mount bolts is stuck - I tested access out when I was putting my motor back in. A 40mm packer under the rear subframe mount along with removing the gearbox mounts materiall improves access to that area.

Thanks for this extra info. I am really keen to get to know the car better and would love to do this job myself. Roughly how long would it take to complete at home off axel stands, 2-3 days?


My real concern at the moment it the other fault regarding the ECU.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... 601/001537
*I’m convinced that it’s nothing to do with the battery or alternator. Although if there’s an appropriate test to confirm this then I’ll happily get it done?
*Is there a way to check if the car has been chipped?
*How do I go about testing the ECU to see if it’s faulty?

[ChrisA]

Just an update for anyone following or looking into this issue at a later date. I stumbled across this post while frantically searching for information regarding ECU issues and resolutions. I’ll disconnect my battery tomorrow for a few days and see how it pans out when I plug it back in. Fingers crossed this works, if it does I might have to treat her to a miltex exhaust.

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=77031

[Mɐʇʇ]

For me, full engine out and back in again is 4 days - 2 each way. That's working solo and on stands rather than a lift. Can do it a bit quicker if I try harder.
So it certainly won't be longer than that. If you can leave all the driveshafts, wiring, lock carrier in position - yeah - couple of days should do it at worst. Mebbe even 1 day.
All depends on the bastard bolt - if you can get that one loose, the job should go OK. The RS has quite a few bastard bolts actually.

However - when I did my F125 - I was due a cambelt anyway, plus I had an EGT sensor error - so I just pulled it all apart. Actually had the motor sitting in the garage for maybe a month while I procastinated. And since it was back together - WooHoo. Lockdown. It's SORNed in the garage.

Thanks for this extra info. I am really keen to get to know the car better and would love to do this job myself. Roughly how long would it take to complete at home off axel stands, 2-3 days?

[Mɐʇʇ]

Has it been remapped do you know? There was a time when I knew a little about reading, and writing, maps on the ECU. I'm afraid I've forgotten most of it now - but I do remember when I did a custom map (I took the Stage 1 (locked and not downloadable) map I already had, downloaded and edited it to remove the SAI and reuploaded), I had to reset all the checksums in the map, but there was a bit of software that did it for me. It may have been WinOLS or TunerPro, I can't remember.

Hopefully battery disconnect and a little patience will solve it for you.

Just an update for anyone following or looking into this issue at a later date. I stumbled across this post while frantically searching for information regarding ECU issues and resolutions. I’ll disconnect my battery tomorrow for a few days and see how it pans out when I plug it back in. Fingers crossed this works, if it does I might have to treat her to a miltex exhaust.

viewtopic.php?f=39&t=77031

[ChrisA]

Has it been remapped do you know?
Hopefully battery disconnect and a little patience will solve it for you.

Thanks Matt. I’m under the impression it hasn’t been mapped. The previous owner, although he hadn’t had it long, told me that it was standard and although the car is fast it doesn’t feel mapped fast.

I’ll take the battery off tonight and give it the night off to see if it helps.

[steve2003rs6]

Fingers crossed for you Chris. Audi tech recently told me that disconnecting the battery resets everything.
That was when I went to him for the cluster backlighting issue.

[ChrisA]

Fingers crossed for you Chris. Audi tech recently told me that disconnecting the battery resets everything.
That was when I went to him for the cluster backlighting issue.

Cheers Steve. Thinking about it I’ve reset the ecu before. When I first picked up the car the stereo wouldn't unlock. I tracked this down to some gammy wiring. One of my “clues” that lead me to the wiring was that I had the above fault code pop up and I interpreted the “Low Voltage” to possibility be a voltage drop due to the damaged wiring. I obviously discounted the battery to put in my temporary fix and when I fired it all back up the stereo worked and the EML was off and didn’t return until recently. I thought my temp fix had solved the EML fault but it looks like it was probably just resetting the ecu. Now I’ve got to find out why I get this fault returning. I emailed MRC yesterday and they said they’d need to look at the car. I just wish I knew if she’s been mapped then I could plan for MRC to remove and replace it before going to see them.

Oh and as a side, if anyone’s interested, I also got a price for MRC to replace the F125 switch. They came as 3 hours labour and the price of the switch at £178. Very reasonable I thought and probably worth not putting myself through the pain of doing it myself.

[steve2003rs6]

Agree Chris. At that price it just isn’t worth the hassle.
Let me know how you get on.