Positioning of the MAF's - HELP needed

[Human Joist]

Be careful, don't get the bantam size egg rings, this is an RS6 after all. The Jersey Giant is too big. Maybe a Plymouth Rock.

[Gregstv]

I think the non stick ones will give better air flow

[IchBautAuto]

I was only able to take them from the drawer on the basis that "she" doesn't use them and they have been there since JC was a lad. Non stick egg rings are a huge step up, you may have to go buy your own.

[IchBautAuto]

Progress report. A friend has generously offered to use his 3D printer to knock up a set to try. This is the work in progress.

The upper spacer that goes in the airbox. It is printed:

The lower that sits between the MAF and the airbox. The 3D drawing to be printed:

Moving on from this, it seems that the options are endless. You could print a MAF housing 15mm longer, or cut the MAF housing immediately above the flange and print an 15mm longer extension that would bolt to the existing flange and so on. You cold make an alloy MAF housing like those available for the RS4. All will do the same job. Personally, I cannot see any value in keeping the arrangement of the MAF secured to the airbox. Any of these options will prolong the life of the MAF plugs and cables. The magic of 3D printing.

All that said, the trial using 4 ply silicone hose and "those" egg rings is actually a solid solution and totally functional. Problem solved for the price of a pint. It even looks quite acceptable.

[Human Joist]

Once you have this all finalised are you looking to set a group buy for this mate ?

[Classik]

Once you have this all finalised are you looking to set a group buy for this mate ?

+1

[IchBautAuto]

Once you have this all finalised are you looking to set a group buy for this mate ?

Done nothing yet. Here are the prototypes for a trial fit, they're in the (slow) mail to me atm.

As said in an earlier post, the options are endless, from this concept of two spacers per MAF through to printing a longer MAF body complete or in between by cutting the upper MAF body off above the flange and printing a 17mm longer section with thicker flange so that the option to keep the MAF bolted to the air box is retained for those who wish to do so.

Being the bunch of individuals that we are, not all will agree with the same solution so it's a bit premature to set on any of the above options.

The situation right now is that a friend offered to print up my initial solution. Firstly he has done a prototype and I try that and he refines the print file if required before printing off a second set, and we get to do the finishing process to smooth things over. He is some 1000 Km away from me and post is slow so progress is likewise.

I can ask him if he is interested in printing some up, I have absolutely no idea of the cost or even if he is able with his proper job, but I can ask. Alternatively most people could knock up a print file using 3D software for the design of their choice and get it printed locally. I've thrown my ideas into the public domain and they are there for the taking. This was my first attempt at using 3D since 2009 when I was using google Sketchup (as it was then).

[IchBautAuto]

OK, this is to wrap up the thread. I have just received the final printed items to space the MAF on the RS6. Very easy to install and it covers two options, to maintain the MAF bolted to the airbox (standard and entails removing the MAF with the airbox as per factory) or to have the airbox firmly located on top of the MAF but not attached (much easier airbox removal and less chance of MAF wiring damage).

As stated in previous posts there are a number of other options so this is not the only solution but it does totally resolve the "from factory" problem that I and others have had with the spacing of the MAF to the airbox.

For those who are not too technically challenged, this is a DIY option if you have a 3D printer and use high temp filament. Even more low tech is the silicon hose and egg ring solution but it does work perfectly.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Can we rev ChrisA up to organise a group buy on them from a UK company? I really like this enhancement for the cars, it's up there with the Bufkin Pipe and should, IMVHO, be the standard "right way" of doing it.

[IchBautAuto]

Been chatting to the great bloke who did this for me. Quite a few issues that should be obvious had to be overcome, like slight shrinkage of the printed product as it cools, which escaped me when I was dimensioning the drawings. I have the .stl drawings which are ready to print and are sized to accommodate the size reduction as the printed piece cools. The finished products are an easy fit and they can be further customised to add any extra sealing medium that may be desired by individual owners, or used as is.

There is a substantial outlay for the right printer to handle the right heat tolerant filament so the diy home cheapie isn't likely to cut the mustard. If someone wants to manage the UK aspects I can provide the print files. I'd hope that it would be a community support initiative and the costs were just cost recovery but in the end that'll be something for the forum to agree on.

Alternatively, 3D drawings are a piece of ... so any design that tickles your fancy can be developed with ease.

[Classik]

Looks good, thanks for the update/report. I don't have access to a 3D printer, but some companies offer the service with many options regarding the material (including silicon). Are you OK with sharing the 3D files (STP format)? Thanks!

[IchBautAuto]

I can pass on the files, they are in .STL format which is as I understand, the industry standard. Past that I'm a huge novice in 3D printing and relied totally on the friend who did all the work in printing the outcome. I've learnt a lot and very tempted to jump on a printer but sadly I foresee it being a case of doing it because you can rather than a pressing need.

[Classik]

That would be great, thanks!

[Shoppinit]

How hot do you reckon it'll get? Glass transition temp of ABS is about 100 degrees. Below that and it should be stable. It's fairly easy to print, too.

What's the airbox made out of? Can almost see it in your photo?

You can print PEEK, too, but it requires a very hot extruder and print bed. Most printers can't manage it. Maybe some of the commercial services could print PEEK for you. Parts like that wouldn't cost too much to get printed.

Those parts would be fairly easy to CNC machine from ally, too, so not too expensive.

[IchBautAuto]

Welcome back, you've caused no end of confusion in your absence.

Good question, I'd rather not guess, I'll put a thermocouple in that area and check the temp. The spacers are printed at 65% fill, at this moment that's all I know. The guy has an engineering business and a twin head printer with hepa filter etc to cater for the noxious gasses from the various fillers. Other details haven't really been chatted about, I'd be on the backfoot commenting. He has 5 Audi, inc B7 RS4 and a WR ur so he's on top of all the little things like engine bay temp ranges etc.

Standard airbox, PE perhaps.

As an ex fitter and turner as a youth I would have automatically gravitated to machining, just that I got an offer to try new technology so why not. The trial using silicon hose and the "egg rings" is working perfectly so as a practical alternative, there is no reason to go past that.