This isn't true.
First up, the OEM cylinder is TRW part number PMN213 and comes in at about 55 quid from autodoc (I've posted that before). Or, if you insist on buying the same part from Audi, it's part number 4B3611021 and a bargainous 350 quid.
To remove:
- Drain the system of fluid.
- Undo and move the master cyl pipes out of the way. I didnt' completely remove them, I just unbolted the master cyl end and loosened the ABS unit end to give me a bit of movement to get them out of the master cylinder. This took a bit of flexing, but I didn't need to bend them.
- Then remove the reservoir - just undo the horizontal bolt that holds it in place and pull really quite hard. (7,6)
- Next undo the buts holding the master cylinder in place (4) and crack the master cylinder off the servo. Looking good.
- Now, in the manual you have to scrabble around under the dashboard to disconnect the brake pedal and generally fanny about a bit.
- Instead, remove bolts (5) and crack the servo off the bulkhead.
- With the servo free to move, you have just enough movement to on it to get the master cylinder clear of the engine bay bulkhead and pull it out.
Bleeding the system - A6's seem to have a bad rap, but I had no issues at all, subject to the following (as per other thread today):
- I use the Laser Brake Bleeder, part number 4832. Screwfix seem to be the cheapest at the moment, oddly.
- I pressurised it up to 35psi and kept the pressure over 30 at all times.
- I cycled the ABS unit via VCDS, even though the book says it's not necessary
- I found quite a lot of fluid was required to ensure that no more bubbles came out. I forget how much, but I certainly put a couple of litres through it, maybe even 4.
- As it happens, I didn't pre-fill the master cylinder as some people recommend. Maybe it would have bled a little quicker if I had.
