Camshaft Timing
Re: Camshaft Timing
Have have an X-ray machine at work for looking at the inside of integrated circuits, multyi layer circuit boards ext. Also check the balls on BGAs to make sure there are no shorts. Some of the BGAs have over 2000 balls.
Can be focused at different depths and will do a 3d image. Once I get the I will post the images.
Can be focused at different depths and will do a 3d image. Once I get the I will post the images.
Re: Camshaft Timing
Noice. Looking forward to seeing that!
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Camshaft Timing
Completely off-topic but does anyone know if 14.85V is too much for an alternator to generate? Explanation: my Volvo shat itself with "over voltage" error warning and all the control modules on the car failed - windows, ABS, AWD, elec windows, everything. I was able to limp home and disconnect the alternator charging circuit (to prevent further damage) and tested it at 14.85V. Seems slightly too high to me, but not so high that it would cause electrical problems.
I was able to clear all the codes and get everything working again except for the AC and a DTC saying the car can't communicate with the alternator.
Now, Volvo have been taking lessons from whoever designed the RS6 when it comes to making things inaccessible, unnecessarily complicated and expensive, so I'd like to be sure the alternator is defective. I've got a horrible feeling it's the ECU though.
I was able to clear all the codes and get everything working again except for the AC and a DTC saying the car can't communicate with the alternator.
Now, Volvo have been taking lessons from whoever designed the RS6 when it comes to making things inaccessible, unnecessarily complicated and expensive, so I'd like to be sure the alternator is defective. I've got a horrible feeling it's the ECU though.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Camshaft Timing
It's seems a little high but not by much. 13.8 to 4.5 is around normal from memory. I don't think 14.85 would cause your problems though.
- IchBautAuto
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Re: Camshaft Timing
It does seem on the ragged edge of high but peak voltage aside, is the problem software limiting the voltage accepted in the system. Probably a good reason to have the checks in place and is the voltage regulator a part of or separate to the alternator?
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:
Re: Camshaft Timing
I once had a failed alternator putting out too much charge. The headlights were noticeably too bright though! I thought it was an upgrade, until the ballast resistor burnt out and I learnt my error.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Camshaft Timing
The alternator is regulated externally by the ECU via LIN bus. I suspect this is what has fried. Maybe it's sporadically putting out voltage spikes. Seems like an unusual failure mode to me, but I'm no expert on alternators. I'm going to have to get a scope on the LIN bus to see if there is a coherent signal.
Think I'll replace the alternator through precaution. I'm going to get the it from Rockauto. Seems like the USA is the only place I can get bits for this car without going through the dealer. Dealer wants over 600 quid for the alternator. Rockauto: 300 delivered, duty paid. The cats came from Rockauto, too. Volvo wanted 1200 quid for them. Got them for 300 from Rockauto.
Think I'll replace the alternator through precaution. I'm going to get the it from Rockauto. Seems like the USA is the only place I can get bits for this car without going through the dealer. Dealer wants over 600 quid for the alternator. Rockauto: 300 delivered, duty paid. The cats came from Rockauto, too. Volvo wanted 1200 quid for them. Got them for 300 from Rockauto.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Camshaft Timing
Might have a go at repairing the ECU myself. It looks like there's an IC that can fail. Doesn't look too hard to unsolder:
The part that fails (red circle) is, apparently - I haven't opened my ECU yet, a NXP TJA1020 LIN bus controller. Can be replaced with a beefier TJA1021/10.
All this according to *one* forum post, though.
Do you reckon the eeprom (yellow circle) contains all the immobiliser info for the ECU? I wonder if I could transfer it to a second hand ECU. Any thoughts?
The part that fails (red circle) is, apparently - I haven't opened my ECU yet, a NXP TJA1020 LIN bus controller. Can be replaced with a beefier TJA1021/10.
All this according to *one* forum post, though.
Do you reckon the eeprom (yellow circle) contains all the immobiliser info for the ECU? I wonder if I could transfer it to a second hand ECU. Any thoughts?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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