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DIY Solutions
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IchBautAuto
- 4th Gear
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:23 pm
- Location: Australia
DIY Solutions
As mentioned in a previous post, the securing arrangement for the rear of the front CF engine cover included a piece of silicone tube to tighten up the mount. No idea if that was OE or a PO solution.
I used some heatshrink in layers to build up the peg diameter and the CF cover just slips on. Works for me.
The female part of the 1/4 turn clips were missing. Started to make up a replacement using sheet metal nuts. Perfect size. Will post up the final solution when completed.
I did find that the front CF engine cover wouldn't sit properly at the front anyway as the DV vacuum hose was protruding above the clip bar.
I've fixed this by ordering a set of GFB DV's T9301. I'm already using these in the RS4 so keep it in the family. The vacuum fitting is horizontal rather than vertical so the cover will snug down to where it is supposed to sit.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:
Re: DIY Solutions
Nice. Looks like the DV hoses are oversized, hence the poor fitting.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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IchBautAuto
- 4th Gear
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:23 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: DIY Solutions
By oversized, you mean too long? Agreed but the replacement DV that are fitted place the vacuum hoses a little too high anyway so to get them below the engine cover mounting plate they stood the chance of getting kinked. A bit of a sequence of events that didn't seem to gel properly.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:
Re: DIY Solutions
I mean they look like silicon hoses to relace the OE vac hoses. Those have a much bigger outside diameter (and much bigger bend radius). I wonder if that's what broke your clip nut in the first place.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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IchBautAuto
- 4th Gear
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:23 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: DIY Solutions
Correct, they are silicone hoses. Certainly possible the hoses did some damage to the original clips. Once I get the GFB's, I'll be able to find out what brand (if any) a PO fitted. Been there more than 6 years I believe. Can't see anything even with a mirror to indicate their origin. I'm assuming that as he spent a small fortune on Milltek and Wagners, He would not have put in some Chinese copy DV.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:
Re: DIY Solutions
Rule 1 on the Unimog
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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Weiß-sechs
- 5th Gear
- Posts: 1193
- Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2013 3:49 pm
- Location: Everywhere & nowhere baby, that's where I'm at...
Re: DIY Solutions
^^^^^what he said 
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IchBautAuto
- 4th Gear
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:23 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: DIY Solutions
Made up the missing front CF engine panel clips. Easy enough, if I still had access to a lathe then it would look a lot more professional but hand tools only for this one.
A few 1/4 - 3/8 BSP gas fittings, two 3/8 bsp male-male joiners, two 1/4 bsp lock nuts plus the pressed metal nuts that I slotted previously.
All the parts needed modifying, basically shortened and then screwed together and assembled in the bracket. This is the detail.
Finished product ready to be re-installed. Test run worked perfectly.
These won't be going anywhere, a bit of loctite and set for life.
A few 1/4 - 3/8 BSP gas fittings, two 3/8 bsp male-male joiners, two 1/4 bsp lock nuts plus the pressed metal nuts that I slotted previously.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:
Re: DIY Solutions
Satisfying.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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IchBautAuto
- 4th Gear
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:23 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: DIY Solutions
First World problem but found this ( CTEK Comfort Indicator Panel Charge Status Lights MXS10 MXS5.0 MXS7.0 56-380) which I'll set into the side panel in the boot so that I can pop in a charger whenever the cars lying idle for a few days or more. So much more "convenient " than lifting up the battery compartment panel if there is stuff in the boot.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:
Re: DIY Solutions
Yeah, I've got an extension for the CTEK which goes from the battery under the back seat and that I can flop out of the rear door to keep mine on charge.
I like this charge indicator thing, though. Might have to get some.
I like this charge indicator thing, though. Might have to get some.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
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IchBautAuto
- 4th Gear
- Posts: 618
- Joined: Thu Feb 20, 2014 11:23 pm
- Location: Australia
Re: DIY Solutions
I'm currently running the extension that came with the charger. Works fine of course but clearing out the boot, hoping that the floor panel hook will hold the panel up and all the other useless excuses make it look like a really useful item. I'm beginning to wonder if I have a parasitic load or the gradual discharge is just part of owning this car. I can leave my A4 for months and the battery is still 12.4v+. The RS4 not so long, the allroad a bit less again and the RS6 less than 4 weeks to get from fully charged to just under 12v. Might just be the curse of a fully optioned and slightly newer car.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:
Re: DIY Solutions
I find that mine discharges quite quickly, too. On one memorable occasion, the battery depleted itself in an underground carpark with the car backed up against the wall. 
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: DIY Solutions
I can get a month on mine without a top up, but you can hear it cranks a bit more laboriously. Had the battery disconnected since October and was quite pleased it had lost hardly any charge when I plugged it back in. Battery is at least 5 years old now, so it's doing ok.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
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