2003 RS6 Build thread

4.2 V8 40v biturbo - 450 bhp
4.2 V8 40v biturbo - 480 bhp (plus)
benh999
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by benh999 » Sat Mar 02, 2019 9:12 pm

jolio1994 wrote:
Sat Mar 02, 2019 6:07 am
Got the 4.2 and trans separated tonight. F*ck that's not fun. Hopefully the 01e and adapter plate are a little easier to install lol.
Why was it so hard?

I’m curious?

jolio1994
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by jolio1994 » Sun Mar 03, 2019 1:54 am

Not sure. I think my back was just in a lot of pain so it didn't help. I had to loosen both the driverside and passenger side turbo to flex them away from the 2 bell housing bolts that were behind them. B*tch is heavy too. Anybody know the weight?

Yes, I have it resting on some sketchy 2x4 that aren't even screwed together as well as a spare intercooler I had from the 2.7 Lmao

Image20190301_235033 by Joel Francisco

And... went ahead and replaced all the seals and the Bufkin Pipe in the oil cooler today. Installed it, well tried to... The oil lines bottomed out on the 2x4 I was using to support the engine and bam-o. Broke it right off. It's literally the bolt farthest away from the oil and coolant o-ring so I think it'll be fine without it. That said, I'm going to JB weld it back on and try again tomorrow. Thoughts?

Image20190302_182942 by Joel Francisco
Image20190302_183017 by Joel Francisco, on Flickr
Image20190302_190425 by Joel Francisco
Image20190302_190432 by Joel Francisco

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Shoppinit
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by Shoppinit » Sun Mar 03, 2019 9:09 am

That’s distressing. I think a new part will give peace of mind. <beep> happens.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
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jolio1994
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by jolio1994 » Sun Mar 03, 2019 9:20 pm

The P/N is the same as the other 4.2's IIRC, the only think being different is the "K" at the end of it... so yay me there haha. I'm having my buddy weld it back on, he said no problem. I'll drop it off next week when I goto deliver my 2.7t to him as well as pick up the downpipes he modified for me.

Lets just take a moment to appreciate how clean the engine block is for 88,500 miles on it! [drool]

Image20190303_141842 by Joel Francisco
Image20190303_141924 by Joel Francisco

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41D2v_Kinro&t

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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by jolio1994 » Fri Mar 08, 2019 5:30 pm

Well, I'm at a loss here guys. I used a 12 point (yes, the correct size) and the flywheel bolts simply stripped. Whichever mechanic worked on this last really torqued the sh*t out of these things... I had some standard ez outs (5/8 and 11/16) but it seemed to be in between them. So I went to Home Depot, then Lowes, then Harbor Freight, and was finally able to pick up some Metric Ez Outs. The sockets walls are too thick to fit in between the 10 bolt pattern, yay me.

I've literally used a 3ft breaker bar with a 5ft cheater bar while using the crank lock pin to keep it from rotating and I know for a fact they crank lock pin is going to break before these come out...

So, what do I do? Like I said, I'm at a complete loss. Even tried drilling one of them out to try and fit a T50 bit in there and it stripped immediately. Don't want to heat them in fear of damaging the main rear seal... cutting the heads off with a grinder seem like the only viable option (Well, that and putting the autotrajic transmission back on) <- NO!

Image20190308_110009 by Joel Francisco

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Shoppinit
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by Shoppinit » Fri Mar 08, 2019 6:12 pm

That kind of <beep> is absolutely what I hate the most about this kind of job. I don't envy you this one.

You could try tig/mig welding a large nut on top of the bolt and using a standard socket with a long breaker bar. I've had good results that way. You might have to weld a bar across another couple of bolts to counter-torque.

Nothing looks corroded. Like you said, just been overtightened. I wonder if they used thread lock. Might be worth putting a lot of heat in locally with a gas torch (or maybe the welder again) but not so much that it cooks the seal.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by bam_bam » Fri Mar 08, 2019 8:25 pm

They say Audis are well screwed together...
No matter where you go, there you are.

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chunky79
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by chunky79 » Fri Mar 08, 2019 8:37 pm

Shoppinit wrote:
Fri Mar 08, 2019 6:12 pm
You could try tig/mig welding a large nut on top of the bolt and using a.........
Impact gun, the shock from the gun should undo them along with the heat from welding.
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jolio1994
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by jolio1994 » Fri Mar 08, 2019 9:02 pm

I checked the pricing of the crankshaft, used ones go for $360 so I knew I was good before I attempted lmao.

Grinded off the heads and used my ez out (3/8) to remove the studs. Sketchyyyyyy

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Jayjay101
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by Jayjay101 » Sat Mar 09, 2019 10:01 am

What size is the bolt?as I’ve got to change the rear main seal on mine soon-When I’ve had the same problem with bolts like this I’ve found that the heat from welding a new bolt on top seams to help get them out-the rear main seal doesn’t cost much so I wouldn’t worry about cooking it


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simonpoulton
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by simonpoulton » Sat Mar 09, 2019 9:59 pm

Weird - did the RMS on mine and no problem getting those out with the crank pin in and a breaker bar. I think I used a spline bit though rather than a 12 point (fairly sure they are slightly different)
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Rune Holen
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by Rune Holen » Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:22 pm

Hi

Nice Project!! I put the same gearbox (01e) with the same engine (bcy) in a 94' Audi 80 competition a few years ago. Without damage anything in the engine room. I will follow this Project:)
Now that you have removed the ''flywheel'' just remember to remove the ''cap'' that are knocked in the end of the crank. I do not know what this adapter plate are, that was mention here?
(sorry for my bad Norwegian/English)…

Good Luck :D
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bam_bam
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by bam_bam » Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:40 pm

Rune Holen wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:22 pm
Hi

Nice Project!! I put the same gearbox (01e) with the same engine (bcy) in a 94' Audi 80 competition a few years ago. Without damage anything in the engine room. I will follow this Project:)
Now that you have removed the ''flywheel'' just remember to remove the ''cap'' that are knocked in the end of the crank. I do not know what this adapter plate are, that was mention here?
(sorry for my bad Norwegian/English)…

Good Luck :D
Fcuk off! MOAR of this car, NEOW!
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by Ajc » Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:30 pm

bam_bam wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:40 pm
Rune Holen wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:22 pm
Hi

Nice Project!! I put the same gearbox (01e) with the same engine (bcy) in a 94' Audi 80 competition a few years ago. Without damage anything in the engine room. I will follow this Project:)
Now that you have removed the ''flywheel'' just remember to remove the ''cap'' that are knocked in the end of the crank. I do not know what this adapter plate are, that was mention here?
(sorry for my bad Norwegian/English)…

Good Luck :D
Fcuk off! MOAR of this car, NEOW!
This is Bam's way of saying " He likes your car and would like too know more about it "
Cheers Al

04 c5 rs6 , Ebony Black, Bare shell repaint , Milltek's, PSS9's,Hotchkis Arb's,Gutted precats, hybrid turbos, Bosch 044 ,And an annoying EML light

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RSKiwi
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Re: 2003 RS6 Build thread

Post by RSKiwi » Wed Mar 13, 2019 10:13 pm

bam_bam wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:40 pm
Rune Holen wrote:
Wed Mar 13, 2019 1:22 pm
Hi

Nice Project!! I put the same gearbox (01e) with the same engine (bcy) in a 94' Audi 80 competition a few years ago. Without damage anything in the engine room. I will follow this Project:)
Now that you have removed the ''flywheel'' just remember to remove the ''cap'' that are knocked in the end of the crank. I do not know what this adapter plate are, that was mention here?
(sorry for my bad Norwegian/English)…

Good Luck :D
Fcuk off! MOAR of this car, NEOW!
What he (sort of) said!!!

Love those wheels :boots:
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