Hotter rear wheel.

[srichards]

The passenger side rear wheel seems to be hotter than all the others. It's already been in for the brakes to be checked and the dubious brake pipes replaced. Still this wheel seems hotter than the others. The longer the car is used for the hotter it is. I did notice before the brakes were looked at there was a bit of grabbing, sticking and sort of dragging feeling when using the car so that has all gone but the heat seems to remain.

I've stopped using the handbrake when I leave it parked in the garage as I think it had been sticking on a bit. I left it parked with it off and a short journey didn't show the hot wheel syndrome. A longer one did though. The brake warning amber light also came on when the car was first used but then went off a bit later. I haven't seen that warning again.

Is it possible it's either just an RS thing that you get one suspiciously hot rear wheel or that wheel bearing is maybe starting to fail? Brakes have been checked so it shouldn't be them.

[Shoppinit]

Sounds like a sticky rear caliper. Despite it being checked.

I personally would put a new one on there. They're pretty cheap.

[srichards]

It does. Annoying it's not showing up as iffy when it's checked though.

[Ajc]

Could it possibly be a wheel bearing at fault? .

[Shoppinit]

I can't picture a wheel bearing worn enough to cause a wheel to warm up without being so noisy as to be unmissable.

Have you checked the temp of the disk after a drive? I've got a pyrometer which is more accurate (and less painful) than the touch test.

[Ajc]

It's a long shot I know and more likely too be a binding rear caliper .

[Shoppinit]

Could be something rubbing there, though. Not sure what. If you could be bothered (and I certainly couldn't) you could remove the drive shaft and try to spin the wheel to detect any friction.

[srichards]

I've got a pointy laser thermometer so I can at least check all parts of the wheel and brakes. I've only done the hand a few inches away from the wheel test which shows a noticeable difference between the two rears.

I won't be removing a drive shaft any time soon!

[G pat]

I've got a similar problem at the moment, although i know its a sticky calliper from when i changed the rear pads as the piston was hard to push back into the calliper and the dust seal was a bit torn. A new non exchange calliper is about £130 on tinternet. Its usefully sitting in the garage until i get a chance to fit it.
Another tell tail sign is more brake dust on the sticky side.

[srichards]

Good point. I'll check for extra brake dust on that side.

Autodoc seem to have a long list of brake callipers.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/bra ... s6-quattro

TRW brand seem to be the most expensive so I'm assuming they are the ones that are needed?

[G pat]

Yeah, that's what i bought and from the same company. Good service and they often have bigger discounts. Oh, and it will come from Germany.

[Richard J]

I bought mine from GSF only cost about £60 and came in a TRW box so I assume was genuine.

[Jultsu]

Most callipers on that list don't fit. A well known problem with Autodoc, every time you search for something rare-ish you get these random parts that aren't even for the same car. You need one with a 43mm piston, and the only one is the TRW.

[srichards]

Most callipers on that list don't fit. A well known problem with Autodoc, every time you search for something rare-ish you get these random parts that aren't even for the same car. You need one with a 43mm piston, and the only one is the TRW.

Same with GSF. They had single piston front callipers only listed

I'll get my garage to do the ordering I think. Not worth the risk of ending up with the wrong one.

[Ben_r1]

I had a binding n/s/r brake calipers, turned out to be the handbrake cable going to the caliper.