Brake pipes corroded

[Crazylarry]

Recently had a minor service done at the stealers and a long list of other items that need 'urgently' fixing was brought to my attention. Amongst them was 'Brake pipes corroded signs of brake fluid leak'. For the pleasure of rectifying this they asked over £1400. Has anyone else had their pipes fixed and did it cost anywhere near this much?? Cheers.

[ahoooga]

find a local 1 man band type garage, probably cost £50-250, depending.

[audi_driver79]

I'm having mine done at my specialist this year. Am expecting a big bill with the usual other stuff..

[Gripper1]

Had most my brake pipes replaced as they were showing signs of corrosion. Was around £250 from what I remember, it's an easy job for a decent mechanic.

[Ajc]

Buy a half decent flaring tool and do it yourself if your handy with the spanners . If your not however then I wouldn't recommend touching the braking system. It's one of those things you really need to work for time every time.
Chances are the steel origial sections won't be available any longer ,so it'll no doubt be made up off the roll using copper where ever you go .so as suggested above ,Find a reputable independent mech and pay much less than the stealers

[Shoppinit]

Hmmm. Stealers... corroded brake pipes are a favourite.

Have you looked at them yourself?

[Mɐʇʇ]

I've not bought new brake pipes in the last 20 years. Always just make my own. Costs almost nothing and they usually fit a damn site better!

[simonpoulton]

I have done the front ones. Right firstly, the actual proper pipes from Audi cost peanuts, which is really surprising and were still available 1 year ago. Guessing they are probably universal to the A6 platform hence why so cheap.

The main challenge is the drivers side one (UK). The pipe run goes right the way through the chamber where the steering rack goes. Due to the shape of the pipe, I couldn't see a way of getting the old one out (unless cut) but more importantly getting the new one in, without removing the steering rack.

The steering rack has a bolt that allegedly can only be got too with a huge amount of labour, so needed another option.

I ended up changing the passenger side (UK) one with the proper part, and fixing the drivers side one with a length as described by AJC. Passed MOT and is not leaking. Someone suggested heat shrink as well to get that black OEM look for the pipe.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Just make sure it's not a halfords or laser 2943 one (or similar) - they're really <beep>.

Buy a half decent flaring tool and do it yourself if your handy with the spanners .

[Ajc]

Or the Clarke version . I know what you mean Matt, I've tried the cheap and cheerful versions . Great if your only gonna use it the once . Any more than that the double flare die gets chewed up.

[Mɐʇʇ]

The ones I noted above (and the clarke one you note) - I actually found them dangerous. I couldn't get a single decent flare out of them.
My one is similar to this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Pipe-Fl ... 2548.l4275
Takes a little finesse, but always been happy with the results.

[Ajc]

They seem to wear out very quickly. I've had a few of the Sealey, Draper and Clarke ones . All were dogturd . Is that the vice mounted version Matt? I ended up biting the bullet and buying a snap on hydraulic version .

[Mɐʇʇ]

My one fits nicely in a vice - that's how I always do it. The ones I linked to above are a little different, but the principal is the same.
Actually - found a pic online of the exact tool I have. I dunno what brand it is, I bought it in Les Smith in the early-mid 90's I think.

With just a little care, reliably able to produce a decent flare. Always been tempted with one of the hydraulic ones, but I just don't do it regularly enough to justify the £.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Oh! There we go - google image search. It's Motaproducts 'Easyflare'.

[Nobby]

Hmmmm..... I've got a Clarke one. Good quality Automec copper brakes pipes and never had a problem.......

I'm no pro though!