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Does anyone know of a link to a guide on replacing the EGT sensors? I understand it's possible without taking the engine out - would like a guide on what does need removal etc to make it a success.

And if not a full guide - has anyone done it? A few bullet points at least would be handy. e.g. Does the front end need to come off? Looms disconnected? Driveshafts & Prop shafts etc....
Really don't want to have to take the whole motor out again.......

Thank you.

I would guess it a very similar thing to changing the upper lambdas Matt. After all they are right next to each other. Think you'll have too remove the front panel , prop off , box,lambda amd egt wiring if it's as tightly zip tied as mine . Exhaust and down pipes off then lower the rear end down to gain access.

Down pipes off? Well that's a long shot for going any where near perfect. Probably easier to rip engine out.

There was a guy on RS6.com that did it on axle stands. Dropped the subframe and engine a lot and gutted his downpipes. Seemed like a lot of hard work without a ramp, but he did it.

Also, if your EGTs are throwing codes, it just possible that you might be able to reflow the electronics at the top of the engine bay. There are some accounts of this being successful. I suspect they are full of potting compound though.

eg.:

http://audisrs.com/viewtopic.php?t=35804&start=0

https://theconstructivemoose.wordpress. ... or-repair/

Just for reference, here is a pic of them in situ (engine out). I've marked the sensors and the points where mine were cable tied.
They are easy to undo (not like the turbo bolts) but they have a long rigid bit for the initial part of the cable so not sure how hard it will be to manoeuvre out.

Also, as shop said, could be the electronics up top that have gone. The sensor itself is fairly simple in construction and so might be worth trying to splice a new top end first before spending hours on pulling the actual sensors.

Thank you all.

Yeh, I know what & where it all goes having taken my engine & box out 2x before (Once for box, 2nd for turbos). I have an almost identical pic of my box & motor on the garage floor. It's just a question of working out the easiest way to do it. On stands too, I don't have a lift.

I don't think downpipes need to come off - although even if they needed to, I'd expect all the fasteners to come apart easily having only been together for a couple of years and I replaced em all with new & lots of nickel grease. (Too hot for copper, don't ya know!)

I plan to try re-soldering the sensor boxes first, but have got a pair of brand new sensors in the stores in case they're needed. Oh, and a 2nd spare used set...
(I've actually got quite a lot of spares on the shelf now - I figure it's not too long before spare parts start to become quite hard to get....although perhaps to prove me wrong, the manufacturing date on the new EGTs is 2013).

Yeah I took your advice on the Nickel grease so hopefully next time I have the engine out it should come to bits quite easily. I was thinking of spanner room more than anything , with the downpipes on you may struggle to get past them and the bulkhead heat protection .

Looks like we've both got the same Clarke engine hoist too.
I also use the clarke load balancer bar - it's a pretty good fit on the engine with just short chains on it.

You can buy new improved circuit boards from a guy in Poland. I have a pair but haven't found a sensible way of getting the potting out of the case (I have the newer type EGT sensors) I'm tempted to try and get some original ones and change the circuit boards and fit them. The new Audi ones I had fitted by Grizz lasted 8000 miles I'm not impressed.

Just remembered it was SID Motorsport.pl for the new improved circuit boards.

Thanks bilko.