Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

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Classik
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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Classik » Fri Nov 09, 2018 11:07 am

Update : new measurements this morning. Short term phasing is between - 0.5 and +0.5 at idle on both bankd, and hoovers around - 20 under load. Both banks are tightly correlated meaning the difference between the 2 banks is always less than 2 degrees at most.
Long term phasing (group measurement 93) is even worse now: - 2°kw on bank 1, - 6°kw on bank 2 🤔

Could the position sensors be blamed for this?
RS6 C5 Avant 2003 Daytona Grey
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Shoppinit
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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Shoppinit » Fri Nov 09, 2018 12:15 pm

Déphaseur bloqué, innit.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Classik » Fri Nov 09, 2018 12:32 pm

Much more clear now! 😉
The mechanical parts of the tensioner have been checked, meaning it can move and the spring has been compared ok against the other tensioner.
RS6 C5 Avant 2003 Daytona Grey
Loba 650 turbos - Wagner IC - 200 cells cats - Milltek cat-back - Hotchkis bars - Bilstein B16 - MTM Wheels - oem coolant cap

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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by bam_bam » Fri Nov 09, 2018 1:29 pm

Shoppinit wrote:
Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:22 am
...Might be a seized dephaser.
Sage.
No matter where you go, there you are.

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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Mɐʇʇ » Fri Nov 09, 2018 1:57 pm

Or hallucinogenic drugs
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"

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Shoppinit
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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Shoppinit » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:00 pm

Nutmeg. If taken in sufficient quantities it’s a hallucinogen.

Sage not so much.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by bam_bam » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:02 pm

Shoppinit wrote:
Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:00 pm
Nutmeg. If taken in sufficient quantities it’s a hallucinogen.
Yep, I took a whole bunch of it in prison, I've never been the same.
No matter where you go, there you are.

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Shoppinit
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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Shoppinit » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:04 pm

Suppository stylee?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Mr Footlong
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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Mr Footlong » Fri Nov 09, 2018 4:00 pm

Shoppinit wrote:
Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:04 pm
Suppository stylee?
As if there is any other way?
Current:

"Brutus"- C5 RS6 Avant - MRC stage 2 - Milltek non-res + 100 cell cats - Wagner ICs - PSS9 - H&R ARBs - OZ Superturismo LM - C6 Custom brakes - HD RNS-E - Various other bits - 555PS/832Nm

Gone:
"Taz"- C7 RS6 - MRC stage 2 - Milltek non-res + 100 cell cats, uprated fuel pumps, race plugs, 745PS/1095Nm
12' Cayenne Turbo, B7 RS4, S3, Cupra R, XJR, EVO VII, STI8,5,2&WRX, 106 GTI&XSI, other crap.

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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Shoppinit » Wed Nov 14, 2018 12:21 pm

So there is another option for these dephasers. There is a US company that makes replacements for about £300 each. I think I'd be happier with these replacement units than with a random ebay vendor.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/

Rockauto has one of them but not the other. Maybe they can get it for you. Never used Summit but believe they do pre-paid duty and shipping like Rockauto do.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Shoppinit » Tue Nov 27, 2018 5:22 pm

Classik wrote:
Fri Nov 09, 2018 12:32 pm
Much more clear now! 😉
The mechanical parts of the tensioner have been checked, meaning it can move and the spring has been compared ok against the other tensioner.
You made any progress on this?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

Classik
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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Classik » Tue Nov 27, 2018 6:26 pm

Thanks for the follow up ! Actually not much progress on this front as such, but 1/I can confirm the short term phasing is at 0°at engine idle, and that both banks measure in a hankerchief under load which, to my my understanding, means the cam tensionners do their job properly (am I correct?) and 2/for the long term measurements my mechanics suspects he may have fasten one of those tensioning rolley a bit too much. Hall sensors could also be checked, I had to change them on my previous car (Atmos S6 C5) after strange phase readings. This will be checked again when I'll visit him again to mount my new wheels! ;)

Meanwhile am I wrong to assume I'm safe? A friend sent me this extract from Elsa stating I'm still within specs (-6...+6), admittedely by a very close margin.

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RS6 C5 Avant 2003 Daytona Grey
Loba 650 turbos - Wagner IC - 200 cells cats - Milltek cat-back - Hotchkis bars - Bilstein B16 - MTM Wheels - oem coolant cap

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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Shoppinit » Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:45 pm

You're right on the acceptable limit. You're safe, but haven't got optimal timing. Maybe some small power loss?
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

Classik
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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Classik » Tue Nov 27, 2018 7:55 pm

This will be fixed foe sure, thanks for the advice, nevertheless it's good to know I won't break anything till then!
RS6 C5 Avant 2003 Daytona Grey
Loba 650 turbos - Wagner IC - 200 cells cats - Milltek cat-back - Hotchkis bars - Bilstein B16 - MTM Wheels - oem coolant cap

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Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide

Post by Mɐʇʇ » Tue Nov 19, 2019 9:37 am

Just a quick addendum to Nobby's original post where he references the availability of aftermarket tensioners. Reviews/feedback on the aftermarket ones seems to be few and far between - however the 2 reviews I've found on ebay ones say avoid. So if you can't just replace the pads and need the full tensioner, go OEM would be my current view.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"

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