Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
1-4 is on the left as you stand looking at the car from the front.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Ah. So 1-4 is the RHS? Or starboard in nautical terms. 
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Yup.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
OK. I'm like you, I can't abide know something isn't "just right".
However, I'm also going to make myself a guinea pig and give the Vaico one a go. I can pop it in and fire the motor up and take all the measurements to validate if everything is good before I have the car fully together. If not, then it's not the end of the world to switch to OEM.
However, I'm also going to make myself a guinea pig and give the Vaico one a go. I can pop it in and fire the motor up and take all the measurements to validate if everything is good before I have the car fully together. If not, then it's not the end of the world to switch to OEM.
Last edited by Mɐʇʇ on Wed Nov 20, 2019 11:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Noice.Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Bit of a pain having to pull the cambelt and camshafts out if I have to - my sphincter always quivers a bit in case I drop em. Anyway hopefully the Vaico one is good and gives me the right numbers in VCDS - in which case we can make it rs246 recommended. 
I have a list of a number of o-rings and sealing washers that I buy independently from Audi too. In some cases, Audi are cheap, but in many, I buy a pack of 10 for the same price as 1 from Audi, for an equal or higher spec part - which is kinda my goal for most things. As good quality as OEM or better, for the same money (if better) or less (if the same).
I have noticed that the blauparts shoe (from the US) has slightly different dimensions to the replacement shoes that Nobby originally linked to.
With the blauparts shoe, my cam timing was still a little off (only just in spec) - and it was defo the adjuster - the cambelt and primary adjustment was 100% perfect - even after 5 years when I took it off recently.
I have a list of a number of o-rings and sealing washers that I buy independently from Audi too. In some cases, Audi are cheap, but in many, I buy a pack of 10 for the same price as 1 from Audi, for an equal or higher spec part - which is kinda my goal for most things. As good quality as OEM or better, for the same money (if better) or less (if the same).
I have noticed that the blauparts shoe (from the US) has slightly different dimensions to the replacement shoes that Nobby originally linked to.
With the blauparts shoe, my cam timing was still a little off (only just in spec) - and it was defo the adjuster - the cambelt and primary adjustment was 100% perfect - even after 5 years when I took it off recently.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
An interim update.
The shoes linked to in Nobby's original post are good - they appear to restore the geometry of the cams to a 0/0 position
The blauparts shoes - avoid. Now I've compared, they are slightly smaller shoe. In a neutral position you end up with the inlet cam a few degrees out. 0 ex/5 in or thereabouts. Not great.
The Vaico tensioner - also looks spot on, cams look 0/0 as well - so looking good so far. Quality of the part also looks fine - quality looks as good as OEM and *does* have the inlet gauze and little valve behind it, just like OEM ones do and unlike the cheap chinese ones. In fact, quality looked good enough and the casting itself looks virtually identical except for the logo, I could well believe they came out of the same factory
The shoes linked to in Nobby's original post are good - they appear to restore the geometry of the cams to a 0/0 position
The blauparts shoes - avoid. Now I've compared, they are slightly smaller shoe. In a neutral position you end up with the inlet cam a few degrees out. 0 ex/5 in or thereabouts. Not great.
The Vaico tensioner - also looks spot on, cams look 0/0 as well - so looking good so far. Quality of the part also looks fine - quality looks as good as OEM and *does* have the inlet gauze and little valve behind it, just like OEM ones do and unlike the cheap chinese ones. In fact, quality looked good enough and the casting itself looks virtually identical except for the logo, I could well believe they came out of the same factory
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Nice.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Oh, I've also replaced the chains. With my digital calipers I couldn't detect any wear between old and new. So 90K miles and the chains are were still OK.
However, while it was apart, I didn't know if my inlet cam timing could be off due to chain wear (no reference to check against), so replaced them as a matter of course too.
However, while it was apart, I didn't know if my inlet cam timing could be off due to chain wear (no reference to check against), so replaced them as a matter of course too.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
I guess with the chains, the issue is the fatigue in the links, so I reckon it was a good precaution changing them. If one snaps, then it's major headache time.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Audi vs Vaico.
Solenoid part no & logos are identical. Except one is datestamped 2018, the other 2003.
The valve body casting - have the same 087 & 109 in the casting. Cast lines and machined faces are identical. There some minor very differences - but looks good to me.
Solenoid part no & logos are identical. Except one is datestamped 2018, the other 2003.
The valve body casting - have the same 087 & 109 in the casting. Cast lines and machined faces are identical. There some minor very differences - but looks good to me.
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"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Excellent news.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Jay - what did you paint the plastic intake ducts with and has it stayed on OK?
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
Hi, I have some questions on this. I have the engine out for a manual swap, and was swapping the tensioner shoes at the same time. Right side was no problem, left side not so much. Removed the tensioner, and when released the tool it was stuck.
Ordered a new Vaico unit, and it came with the locking tool on it. I installed the new tensioner and when all was done I released the tool, and it looks like the new tensioner is allso stuck
Its not adding much tension to the chain. Now question is, will this tension up with oilpressure? Or must it be released some kind of way? Or is it broken?
Thanks, and sorry if the english is crap
Ordered a new Vaico unit, and it came with the locking tool on it. I installed the new tensioner and when all was done I released the tool, and it looks like the new tensioner is allso stuck
Its not adding much tension to the chain. Now question is, will this tension up with oilpressure? Or must it be released some kind of way? Or is it broken?
Thanks, and sorry if the english is crap
Re: Cam chain tensioners/pads removal and replacement guide
The piston end (lower on that pic) just wiggle it a bit and pull it out a bit and maybe lube the piston & cylinder up a bit with some oil. And don't overtighten the tool.
a. You can break the tool
b. Worse, you don't want to break the adjuster.
So just lube up and wind it back on gently until you feel a slight increase in pressure. I don't recall mine sticking, but I don't recall paying particular attention to it either.
It fills with oil under pressure when you fire the motor up anyway - so am sure would be fine - but better safe than sorry to just make sure it's free.
The chain noise you sometimes hear on startup on these is as the adjuster piston & cylinder build pressure.
a. You can break the tool
b. Worse, you don't want to break the adjuster.
So just lube up and wind it back on gently until you feel a slight increase in pressure. I don't recall mine sticking, but I don't recall paying particular attention to it either.
It fills with oil under pressure when you fire the motor up anyway - so am sure would be fine - but better safe than sorry to just make sure it's free.
The chain noise you sometimes hear on startup on these is as the adjuster piston & cylinder build pressure.
"not a professional engineer, mechanic and mechanist"
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