DIY - How to save your oil cooler

[Shoppinit]

Classik, what makes you think it's Setrab that makes the OE one?

[Mɐʇʇ]

I can confirm this is correct - I have been doing that for the last couple of months.

I'd wager that the middle of a pandemic is a great time to learn to TIG weld....

[Mɐʇʇ]

Classik, what makes you think it's Setrab that makes the OE one?

[Shoppinit]

In that case, maybe contact their distributor in France?

Goodridge France
Damazia Bellut
Tel: +33 (1) 64 38 44 44

or UK

Serck Motorsport
Graham Smith
Tel: +44 (0)208 813 7470

Get it from the horse's mouth?

[Mɐʇʇ]

Edited - found the photo I took of the Sticker in 2014.

[Shoppinit]

I bet they are expensive because they are specific to the RS6 and just a low volume run. Maybe if you buy a batch from the distributor they'll be a better price. I'd be up for a spare one if the price is correct.

Also, can anyone remember offhand if the oil comes out the same side as it goes in? Or does it go across and out?

[Mɐʇʇ]

Both oils are across and out the other side.

However, it's also a myth (IMVHO) that the engine oil warms the trans oil - only point they touch is where're they in contact on adjacent sides of the end caps - which is tiny.
So if I needed a new cooler - and TIG welding a new union (in a standard AN size) wasn't an option - I'd probably just go with seperate standard shape coolers. There's plenty of space and they're well hidden from view - although I appreciate it's not then OEM shape & size.

It's also a somewhat tricky repair since you don't want to get swarf inside the cooler - @Classik I am sure a local place should be able to weld a new end on for you though. Just make sure you flush the cooler very very very thoroughly after.

[Shoppinit]

That's exactly where I was going with that question.

[sweegie]

However, it's also a myth (IMVHO) that the engine oil warms the trans oil - only point they touch is where're they in contact on adjacent sides of the end caps - which is tiny

Yep, and would be unneeded too, as the ATF is heated by the engine coolant instead....

[Shoppinit]

I would look at using separate rads if I have to replace my oil cooler. Only a third of the rad is used for ATF cooling. The other 2 thirds are for cooling the oil so I'd probably get a bigger oil cooler than ATF cooler.

I'd be slightly concerned about over-cooling the ATF since the box doesn't like that. I don't think there's a thermostat on the ATF so I guess its temperature is more or less regulated by the heat exchange in the coolant rad. I guess it'd be a suck and see approach.

[Mɐʇʇ]

@Classik. Send Mr Footlong a PM. He had a spare cooler with all the hoses still attached - and therefore it should be recoverable.
I was chatting with him about having it to refurb exactly as above ^^ - but we didn't quite come to an agreement - so he might still have it. This would solve your problem.

And at the risk of repeating myself.......any used cooler....flush, flush, & flush it again. And then again.

[Mɐʇʇ]

@Shopp : Agreed.

I've actually just taken the oil stat off my boat motor. On the last run, was getting higher oil temps than I was happy with - still just about OK, but a bit high. So have removed that stat and put a blanking plate in (the stat casting is still there). That has a large oil->water cooler, so I don't believe for a second that the issue is cooling capacity.

By the same token however, I have the oil temp sender right in the sump, where the oil is it's absolute hottest. So maybe all was OK all along.
Another case of suck it and see - probably find the oil runs right at 3C or whatever the sea temp is in the middle of summer, now.

I would look at using separate rads if I have to replace my oil cooler. Only a third of the rad is used for ATF cooling. The other 2 thirds are for cooling the oil so I'd probably get a bigger oil cooler than ATF cooler.

I'd be slightly concerned about over-cooling the ATF since the box doesn't like that. I don't think there's a thermostat on the ATF so I guess its temperature is more or less regulated by the heat exchange in the coolant rad. I guess it'd be a suck and see approach.

[Classik]

Thanks for the suggestions & recommandations folks, I'll try to educate myself on the TIG welding front, but it would probably lead to buying very specialized tools that will be used only once (we've already had this discussion, haven't we? ).

@Shopp: I just called the French Setrab distributor: nice person, he'll be looking into this for us (I've mentioned others could be interested), but he suspects Setrab keeps these specific coolers for the 'official' Audi OEM distributors. More later.
Also I'd be happy to change cfor another dual cooler setup, but seems like the connectors and all that would need to be adapted, not quite an easy job, at least for me.

@Matt: just sent a PM to Mr Footlong, let's see what he's got for me, thanks for the suggestion.

[Mɐʇʇ]

The engine oil connectors are easy - just the same connector I linkyed at the beginning for the hose.
I haven't looked at the ATF unions - but I feel sure connectors would be possible off the shelf.

Also I'd be happy to change cfor another dual cooler setup, but seems like the connectors and all that would need to be adapted, not quite an easy job, at least for me.

[Classik]

Hey Matt & all,
I've found a cooler sold with all surrounding pipes and the secondary oil cooler for what seems a decent price, see pictures below (still waiting for more pictures, in particular the front of the cooler).

The vendor says it didn't show any leaks but knowing the threads could be easily damaged, he decided not to unmount the pipes and to sell the whole lot instead.

What do you guys think, shall I take the opportunity, and what's the price you'd be ready to pay for the parts?