DIY - How to save your oil cooler

[Mɐʇʇ]

Price is always tricky. What I’d pay might be lower than you since my threshold before I go “fuggit, I’ll make my own” is relatively low

[Human Joist]

By way of an update to this. Mine let go the other day after a previous budge job failed. So I’ve ordered all the bits described in this thread to replace the areas that are at issue

You can see in the pic the bodge that failed

[Mɐʇʇ]

My mk1 version of this repair is now 6 years in, nearly. and holding up just fine. Do take note of my comment re. Teflon though. The Teflon hose is nice.

To remove the OS cooler hose from the cooler, break out the dremel and take it slow and steady. You want to save as much of the cooler thread as you can - the more you save, the more lives you have in store for future jobs.

Lucky it’s that hose and not the NS hose. The NS one is doable, but basically a right bugger and as long as OEM is available, defo the way to go for that one.

[Human Joist]

The pic is upside down it’s the NS one that is the bodge. He then cut the hard line half way across the front of the cooler as pictured and put a flex hose over that. That’s actually a decent fit As he then out a couple of weld lumps and three jubilee clips so it’s going no where. The rest of the hard line is in good order so will keep that and re do the flex line back to the junction.

Then follow your guide for the OS using this kit and the other few bits so allow me to build it. Basically will be flex hose replacement apart from hardline on both ends for the OS joint. It’s in good order and will be wax oiled to protect it.

I used the dremel idea and got the nut off perfectly without issue

[Mɐʇʇ]

I like the black nylon braided hose. Been using a bit myself, it looks very smart

[Human Joist]

Should help keep it a bit factory looking after the repair and don’t want it visible though the grill where it overlaps the hard line

[Human Joist]

Well that went horribly wrong. The 45 degree joints blew apart as I started the car. Looks like the parts were under par for quality. I will have to replace them with bits from torques as per original post. Only went with what I did as I wanted the black lines to look more factory. That will teach me a lesson oil flew out upon start up

[Mɐʇʇ]

Just to add a note. I can see from other forums that some people go with AN-8 hoses.
I’m sure that is OK, but then AN-10 sizing matches OE hose bore. If you want the extra space of a thinner hose with the same bore as OEM, go with Teflon. Teflon hose is excellent!

To go with Teflon, replace the 2 hose ends and hose from the original post with these 45 degree end fittings:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172957761220

And 1M of this hose:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362145770960

Plus this seperator (it's slightly smaller to fit the teflon):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/362145644313

[Human Joist]

Those look better than the ones I initially got. I settled with these custom made at Pirtek with proper joints for £66 all in

[Human Joist]

In conclusion to this thread no thought I would just post to say the pirtek stuff fitted really well and has a factory quality to it. One week since fitted and it’s all running smooth.

Or it was till I put this post on

[Siph3r]

Did it start leaking again? Any idea what caused it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Human Joist]

Just to report al good. It’s tucked away for the winter but started yesterday and runs fine with no issues. This seems the best way forward from what I explored

[RS6Rottweiler]

I bought a new cooler form Audi but no hoses available so will have to make them all, does anyone know what AN10 fitting will go direct onto the cooler rather than use the female adaptor or is the adaptor the only solution? Also what size is the the upper fittings that go to the gearbox and what fitting will go direct onto the cooler or do I have to use the female adaptor solution? I think this pipe is smaller so will be AN8, can anyone confirm? Anyone got the Torqyes part numbers.

I would appreciate any help you guys can give me as I need to get the car back on the road as soon as if possible?

[Mɐʇʇ]

I haven't found a fitting that goes straight on to the cooler. Partially because the usual repair includes recovering the thread on the cooler a bit which the sleeve assists with, but either way, it's gonna take some hunting.

I reckon this might get you started : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193072842430
But really, you need an M22 Female => AN-10 direct adaptor, especially for the Near Side (LHS) since it's a pretty tight turn. I must've grabbed one of the last new pipes I guess since they were available in october 2019 - but my backup plan for the LHS was just going to have to be to machine a M22 90 degree adaptor which I would have then threaded to take an AN-10 adaptor on top for the hose. Aggro, but I think it would have worked.

Otherwise, maybe https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/torquesuk can rustle you something up.
If not, I think https://www.thinkauto.com/ could make you something
Might also be worth a call to merlin motorsport https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/

[Classik]

Glad you succeeded to find a new cooler from Audi, when I asked (like 4 months ago), none were available in France nor at the main warehouse in Germany.

As far as fittings are concerned, you already know the upper ones (gearbox oil circuit) and the lower ones (engine oil circuit) do not have the same size. In my experience, the gearbox hoses are not causing any issues, and except if yours are totally worn out you're good to keep them as is, at least that's what I did. I suppose you could find decent second hand ones on fleabay if it weren't the case.

Main problem is for the engine oil circuit, and I must say I didn't find a better option than the female-female M22x1.5 adapter on both sides. Maybe you'll be more lucky, but I didn't find a connector that would fit directly into the cooler (M22x1.5 plus the inner ball shaped hose). The beginning of this thread will give you all details regarding the left side of the cooler (driver side in the UK).
For the right side (passenger side in the UK), the goal was to be able to twist around the gearbox hose whilst avoiding too much extension towards the carbon fiber air duct of the intercoolers (hence the use of a banjo bolt to achieve that).

My solution was therefore to build the following :
- F-F M22x1.5 brass adapter
- A banjo connector M22x1.5 to AN10 (https://www.ebay.fr/itm/361968279618)
- An AN10 extension (https://www.efisolutions.com.au/an-extension-an10-black)
- An AN10-AN10 90deg adapter (https://www.ebay.fr/itm/150484763081)
- Braided hose to oil box upstream



For reference, see page 24 & 25 on this document : http://audirssix.com/images/PDF_Documen ... RS%206.pdf

Disclaimer : of course, double-check carefully before buying blindly from my list above, references & sizes may have changed since I bought the parts...