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Under tray dimensions

Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 12:34 am
by Ecxoes
Well on my mission to revolutionise rs6 ownership I've been looking into a alternative under tray, I don't know if this cropped up before I never looked! (Just being honest)
I've never had a under tray and don't intend buying a genuine one so I'm going to make one from fiberglass,carbon fibre or stainless steel plate with machined vents and pockets for hoses etc......

Thoughts and contributions welcome and if anyone has a pattern with dimensions and fixings that would be great.
Think that's the last in a long list of stuff I've sorted out. Need some enjoyment from this car now.

Recon gearbox tc timing belt water pump thermostat spark plugs rocker gaskets bufkin water pipe lambda probes aux belt tyres n75 valve vac pipes bumper repair and respray decat oil cooler mods brake light switch fuel filter and a remap once I get to the bottom of my boosting fault!

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 12:35 pm
by bam_bam
Add a gurney flap a la Sportec undertray mod.

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 3:06 am
by seaneb
^^I did this earlier In the year. The amount of extra heat being expelled from the engine bay as a result was surprising (and I was expecting there to be quite a lot). Less heat in engine bay = less heat soak.

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 11:28 am
by Mɐʇʇ
I'm interested in this. Strikes me that making glassfibre mould might be quite labour intensive, but necessary to make it nice.
Have you considered using NS4 aluminium sheet? I've used it for panelling quite a lot and it's good to work with. You could bond NACA ducts, vents etc to it using sikaflex (and probably some mechanical fasteners too).

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 12:20 pm
by bam_bam
THIS.
MattYorke wrote:Have you considered using NS4 aluminium sheet? I've used it for panelling quite a lot and it's good to work with. You could bond NACA ducts, vents etc to it using sikaflex (and probably some mechanical fasteners too).
Make it happen.

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 6:34 pm
by Ecxoes
I don't have a pattern to work from, anyone have dimensions or a drawing?
I was leaning more towards the fibreglass route i don't think the moulding would be that difficult, once i have a pattern the mold can be made simply with a clay form, that way the air ducts ect can be allowed for and simply cut out after.

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 7:38 pm
by Mɐʇʇ
I've done a little glassfibre work. It is possible and you could make a lovely job of it, but I wouldn't recommend it if you are anything approaching a beginner at GRP.

You could make some substantial compromises on the surface finish and focus on strength & integrity as it's a hidden component - but I think you'd be surprised at how much effort it is to do a nice job. I've attached a couple of things I've done in GRP recently - a bucket seat shell, off an existing, good quality mould, and lots of bulkheads and formers in the powerboat I'm building. That bucket seat - I built 4 - the first 2 being rubbish ones that I had to throw out. And it looked like an easy shape! :)

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 7:44 pm
by bam_bam
THIS.
bam_bam wrote:THIS.
MattYorke wrote:Have you considered using NS4 aluminium sheet? I've used it for panelling quite a lot and it's good to work with. You could bond NACA ducts, vents etc to it using sikaflex (and probably some mechanical fasteners too).
Make it happen.

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:00 pm
by Mɐʇʇ
Do you promise to increase the font size next?

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:43 pm
by bam_bam
Nah, I'm outta puff. That's all I've got.

Re: Under tray dimensions

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:50 pm
by mavada
Ecxoes wrote:I don't have a pattern to work from, anyone have dimensions or a drawing?
I was leaning more towards the fibreglass route i don't think the moulding would be that difficult, once i have a pattern the mold can be made simply with a clay form, that way the air ducts ect can be allowed for and simply cut out after.
Sorry no, only pic(s)