DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

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Weiß-sechs
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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Weiß-sechs » Mon Nov 12, 2018 4:50 pm

Agreed on the H&R's. Same story as mine.
What springs are you running with the Koni's?

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Gripper1 » Mon Nov 12, 2018 7:32 pm

Standard springs, which took quite a time to source!

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Classik » Mon Nov 12, 2018 9:51 pm

Amazing job! Just out of interest, does the DRC need some preventive maintenance, like changing the fluid every xxx kms or yyy years?
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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Shoppinit » Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:08 pm

Just change the shocks and reservoirs every 10000 miles. And the pipes. Between services you can get it recharged. Other than that, no.
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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Classik » Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:29 pm

Shoppinit wrote:
Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:08 pm
Just change the shocks and reservoirs every 10000 miles. And the pipes. Between services you can get it recharged. Other than that, no.
Thanks! I suppose you meant every 100000 miles..
RS6 C5 Avant 2003 Daytona Grey
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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Shoppinit » Mon Nov 12, 2018 11:20 pm

Classik wrote:
Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:29 pm
Shoppinit wrote:
Mon Nov 12, 2018 10:08 pm
Just change the shocks and reservoirs every 10000 miles. And the pipes. Between services you can get it recharged. Other than that, no.
Thanks! I suppose you meant every 100000 miles..
I'll try it again: Just change the shocks and reservoirs every 10000 miles. And the pipes. Between services you can get it recharged.

Other than that, no. Image

It's all in the timing.

Image
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Classik » Wed Nov 14, 2018 12:22 pm

Ha, must be a langage thing and I must have missed the joke, but I'm more than surprised about the 10,000 miles life span of those shocks..
RS6 C5 Avant 2003 Daytona Grey
Loba 650 turbos - Wagner IC - 200 cells cats - Milltek cat-back - Hotchkis bars - Bilstein B16 - MTM Wheels - oem coolant cap

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Mɐʇʇ » Wed Nov 14, 2018 12:32 pm

Yeah, it does seem a bit on the high side.
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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Shoppinit » Wed Nov 14, 2018 12:35 pm

:biggrin3:
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Smartguy » Tue Aug 18, 2020 3:44 pm

Hello guys, I am new to the RS6 scene but have a C5 A6 2.7T highly modified. I do run circuit tracks with the A6 and I have seen the light and time to step up. Being that I plan to use the car for its abilities, I would like to keep the DRC and make it right. What I don't understand is when the tool is installed inline as you have it, how does the system stay pressurized when removing the tool?
I have ordered the Bentley manual for the car and have every intention of making this set up.
I am 100% staying with DRC, I have a good coil over set in my A6 and I believe the DRC will be far superior.
Thanks in advance,
Troy

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by IchBautAuto » Wed Aug 19, 2020 3:14 am

Please accept this in the spirit it is given, but I cannot understand why you would even consider the DRC system for a track car, let alone a road car. There are a lot of intelligent systems in use by pro racers, most cost way way more than an RS6 is worth today. So unless you have won the lottery or had a huge bequest, you are really limited to coil over options if you expect to achieve anything. The RS6 is the last choice for track work that I could think of.

You'll know that for every track, all the variations from wet / dry and tyre choices, that you need to adjust the spring rate, ride height, compression and rebound damping for each outing, plus ARB settings etc. That is just not available with DRC. My car has had two sets of DRC fitted in 100,000 Km and the second set was knackered at that mileage, so less than 50,000 Km of road use per set and for some of that the car wouldn't have been track safe anyway.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Smartguy » Wed Aug 19, 2020 1:59 pm

Absolutely I take that as advice. As stated, I'm new to the RS6 scene. Could you give me some of the options of intelligent suspension systems please? The bulk of what I have found are Bilstein and KW but they seem to be adjustable static systems. I can change the dampening and whatnot out side of the car but its not active. Really eh, wouldn't choose the RS6 for that, I love my A6 for the all around use I have but see time and again how the RS is way better. There's something about these cars I love, partly the "just a sedan" look, the ability to drive 4 seasons, being able to drive to the track, on the track and home again, and fuel economy. Beat the car and it gets 250kms on a tank, be nice to it get 700kms on a tank.
I really appreciate any advice and thoughts you have.

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by IchBautAuto » Thu Aug 20, 2020 12:22 am

You'll have a wealth of knowledge all through this forum. Many better than mine. My view, based on some years of track work in lots of different cars, plus I have both an RS6 and a RS4 for comparison, which is relevant to this discussion.

My RS6 is on Bilstein suspension but otherwise standard ARB and arms. Upgraded intercoolers and exhaust and has the plus model secondary radiators etc. Fantastic car, as a Bahnstormer. Really love it but wouldn't bother putting it near the track. Too heavy, excessive polar moment etc. It just wasn't designed or built for that. All that said, of course you could put one on the track. Champion racing in the US did just that but frankly they are in a different league both financially and their tech support. I've seen some on the track with private owners and you can drive anything on the track, even a tractor, but it's a chore. I doubt that many get ultimate satisfaction wrestling a plough steering car around, changing the suspension arms every few meetings etc.

The RS4 is head and shoulders above the RS6 for the track in my view. Easily the same HP and manual, smaller body, lighter. My RS4 is about 500HP, and with upgraded suspension, adj suspension arms etc. Back to back it is immediately obvious that the difference is significant. All said though, even the RS4 is not a great track car. Sure is a lot of fun though.

You'd be better using your 2.7 if you must run the A6 body. You can easily get 500 - 600 HP from that motor, manual gearbox and a lot less front weight. By all means buy an RS6. Great car but this forum will outline some of the penance you may pay for ownership. It isn't all plain sailing. Track it, feel free, it'd be your car. End of the day it's your choice and best wishes if that is your preference. A few weeks of solid reading on here will answer many of your questions and give you a more rounded view of how owners see this car.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by Smartguy » Sun Aug 23, 2020 1:06 am

I have found with my A6 that it sure is a big car for the track. Mine is stage 3+ and converted to 01E 6 speed manual, lots of fun. I wish I could find the B5 RS4 over here, they weren't sold here in Canada so we apparently have to go for the S4. But I do like my boat. Being that it is primarily Daily Driver but go to a road course track when I can, I'm sacrificing nimbleness for day to day big sedan roominess. I'm a bit crazy. I dyno'd a couple weeks back and my 2.7T is 375hp 408ft/lb at the wheels but the tune is a bit off, need a 3 bar map and an oil cooler. I have stolen the brakes from the RS6 for now and they are SOOO much better than the A6 brakes. So at this point the A6 is my main squeeze but the RS6 is going to be a project and do it up right.

So maybe the question is more, which suspension system is best for track/road for the RS6? I don't mind spending the money and doing it right, if I get 100,000kms from the stock suspension, I'm ok with that as it will take me a long time to get 100k because I only drive 15,000 or so a year. Plus it won't be winter driven. That being said, if the KW suspension is offering better performance I'll go that way. I have found that a lot of the RS6 stuff is hard to find and expensive, but that sound :D and here we only got 86 of them and I have one. A big part of what makes me really want to go at the RS6 is my A6. I love how it drives and feels and as I have taken a couple things from the RS to use for the track, I have really found myself amazed at the difference and I can't help but question, how will the whole car in correct working order feel compared to the A6.

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Re: DRC repair using home made fluid transfer tool

Post by IchBautAuto » Sun Aug 23, 2020 2:35 am

Smartguy wrote:
Sun Aug 23, 2020 1:06 am
.............................................................................................
So maybe the question is more, which suspension system is best for track/road for the RS6? I don't mind spending the money and doing it right, if I get 100,000kms from the stock suspension, I'm ok with that as it will take me a long time to get 100k because I only drive 15,000 or so a year. Plus it won't be winter driven. That being said, if the KW suspension is offering better performance I'll go that way. I have found that a lot of the RS6 stuff is hard to find and expensive, but that sound :D and here we only got 86 of them and I have one. A big part of what makes me really want to go at the RS6 is my A6. I love how it drives and feels and as I have taken a couple things from the RS to use for the track, I have really found myself amazed at the difference and I can't help but question, how will the whole car in correct working order feel compared to the A6.
First question is answered by life itself. One, there is no system that is right for both track and road, always a compromise. There is no best brand or there wouldn't be so many brands competing for your $. The road is itself a compromise so just your road suspension must be a compromise just to cater to the changing conditions. Every track needs adjustments to get the best times and that isn't really compatible with road suspension. You need to be able to adjust your ARB to suit the conditions. For example, I have Eibach front (32mm) and 034 rear (25mm) bars on my RS4. Eibach even recommends disconnecting their bar in rain / snow as it reduces the traction if fitted. I would agree that in inclement weather my car would be better on standard street suspension.

You mention the bonuses of using RS6 parts on your A6. Of course, better brakes will seem obvious on your A6, they were speced on the RS6 to cater to the heavier weight and higher performance. Some but not all of the benefits will be lost on the RS6 compared to the A6 due to the weight and handling changes, so you'll notice the benefits more on your A6.

So, really, it's over to you to try your own ideas and learn the outcomes, same as the rest of us. I'd suggest starting a new thread, this one is not the place. It's one thing to aspire to making the RS6 track capable, it can be done at a price, and another to live with the RS6 which is a totally different situation and hugely more challenging to keep it on the road as your daily car when you also use it on a track. I wouldn't underestimate that part of the equation. The RS6 is my daily but I have the RS4 and A4 to fall back on if I were to encounter some problems and I'm possibly more willing than some to spend what it takes to keep it pampered.
C5 RS6, Milltek and Wagners: B5 RS4 450 + HP: A4 1.8 GP TQS original: 1963 UNIMOG 404:

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