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Replaced the lambda sensors 'cos the Vag Com told me to and now it looks like I've a loose wire somewhere which will actually cause me sleepless nights. Hope I find it soon cos job is moving me outta continental Europe and off to a place where there just isn't enough road to enjoy it.

After experiencing regular runs at 270kph, nothing else will do and I will have to sell it which I hope won't be too hard! They are the type of car that are easier to buy than to sell and we can never ever expect to get any of the money we put into it back out again but to me, it was worth every penny. Fullblast on autobahn and Both it and me come fully alive!

Well, I have to find that loose wire before I lose any more sleep, otherwise the engine light stays on and it just isn't going to sell. Had an independent specialist look at it and he reckons it was chipped at some stage, if not still, and some wires were replaced - would that make any sense? Would tally with the top speed I get - the chip. Wouldn't it show on Vag Com though?

Anyway, I'll sell it with the winter wheels on it and sell the original set of 19" 5 spokes with Michelin PS2 on them separately. They've only covered 928kms since i bought them - I didn't expect this news with the job.

Anyway, I'll let you know how it goes and I hope it'll be going to a loving home that can take care of it properly.

1 yr of ownership =
Full cambelt service and ancillaries,
New front brake discs and pads,
Gearbox oil change,
Gearbox rebuild and clutch packs,
New rear window - courtesy of a Friday night special event which the police kindly made the culprit pay for,
New lambda sensors,
Set of original 19s with new PS2,
Set of 18s for the winter tyres, also Michelins,
Lots of fuel,
Lots of high speed progress,
Lots of silly grinning,
Lots of frightened ladies in passenger seat,
Lots of I will miss that car!!!

I remember you were based in Czech republic, is the car left hand drive?
Not sure Vagcom would tell straight away if the car was chipped, probably driving the car with Vagcom plugged in would reveal some unusual values if the car was chipped.

Log the boost than you will know.

I remember reading some threads here about tuning engines and whether to inform or not to inform insurers. The point being that if the car is involved in a fatal accident then you are in serious trouble if you haven't informed your insurer about remapping the engine.
So if the only way how to find out whether the engine has been remapped or not is the change in boost pressure, how do they find out when the car is undriveable?
Not that I plan to hide something to my insurer, just curious...

They look at the actual map file. It's called a map because basically it's a set of tables and algorithms that say "When throttle position is X, and fuel flow Y" then set boost to Z etc. (Lots more parameters and variables - but you get the idea)

Every thing also carries a date stamp IIRC so they can see when files were changed.

Dave

Thanks for explaining Dave.
I remember when I was at MRC Dough told me that my car wasn't remapped, but only after he had completed the test drive with Vagcom plugged in. Hence I was curious if there is any other way to tell.

I wondered about the mapping, thought it would be straightforward to detect but obviously not quite so. Bit risky then thinking that insurance is adequate when it might not be.......

Yes, I'm based in the Czech Republic and had another couple of top speed blasts on German autobahn last week which quite frankly, frightened the "bejaysus" out of my front seat passenger. The car is lefthand drive.

Power corrupts and, massive power corrupts massively, so after this car, it'll be hard to find something to match it. Although, the newest Alpina D3 gives same performance 0-60 but with 173 mph top speed and 50 odd mpg. About 60k sterling base price, if it's possible to describe an Alpina as being a base car.

Loose wire is still loose and and I am losing my mind..... But car is solid, strong, performing and sounding just like it should. What is it???

So, it's a non-heating lambda sensor that's causing my engine light to come on. Specialist tells me that ECU is not matching with the lambdas. Make sense? Anyone ever come across this before? Search function returned zero results....

Help?

The lambda sensor needs to be at the right temperature to function properly. Which lambda sensors did you change? What were your fault codes? Have you traced back the wiring?

Don't know what your 'specialist' is on about with the lambda matching. Sounds like guff to me.