Ah yes, good point Bam. Didn't think about that.
Perhaps these as they have resistors built in. I'll have to check whether they'll fit as the interface looks weird.
http://www.autoledshop.com/index2.php?c ... pcatid=651
led side lights
Is there not an option anywhere to just get a 'cooler/brighter' conventional bulb?
You see these yoofs driving around these days with replacement bulbs that are much brighter than oem, some of them even have a blueish hue to them.
Is there nothing similar for the 501s thus avoiding the reliability issues of the LEDs?
You see these yoofs driving around these days with replacement bulbs that are much brighter than oem, some of them even have a blueish hue to them.
Is there nothing similar for the 501s thus avoiding the reliability issues of the LEDs?
Philips LED Lights
I purchased these Philips LED Blubs for my C5 PLus side and rear plate lights . No DIS issues and great light.
[http://www.powerbulbs.com/led-bulbs.asp?cat1=53
url][/url]
[http://www.powerbulbs.com/led-bulbs.asp?cat1=53
url][/url]
That's the holy grail and I have searched with no luck. Ideally I want to harmonize the sidelight and headlight colour as the old yellas just look wrong IMO. Don't care if they're leds or filaments, but so far the UltraLEDs have been so unreliable I'm ruling them out so am now forced to browse 'yoof shops'.MoRS6+ wrote:Is there nothing similar for the 501s thus avoiding the reliability issues of the LEDs?
Bam, I've emailed said 'yoof shop' to find out about the casing material. If good then I'm going for it.
C5 RS6 Avant. Muggle Blue, Black leather, PSS9s, Hotchkiss ARBs, Grizz's BIG brake kit, Phaeton cooling ducts.
What kills LEDs is heat. This is why they need resistors to limit the current going through them (which heats them internally). Or what some OE manufacturers do which is flash them at about 100Hz so that they appear to be on constantly to the human eye but are in fact off half of the time to give them a chance to cool down. This is particularly noticable with Pugs and Renaults who flash them at a relatively low frequency (maybe tell you something about the designer's brain speed 
). Anyway, low enough frequency for me to notice them flashing and to irritate the hell out of me. Useless French cars.
I wonder if the proximity to the xenons is a problem. Do they even get that hot xenons? Never tried touching one
). Anyway, low enough frequency for me to notice them flashing and to irritate the hell out of me. Useless French cars. I wonder if the proximity to the xenons is a problem. Do they even get that hot xenons? Never tried touching one
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Are you saying that because folk are just plugging the LED 501s straight in to the bulb holder, there is too much current?Shoppinit wrote:What kills LEDs is heat. This is why they need resistors to limit the current going through them (which heats them internally). Or what some OE manufacturers do which is flash them at about 100Hz so that they appear to be on constantly to the human eye but are in fact off half of the time to give them a chance to cool down. This is particularly noticable with Pugs and Renaults who flash them at a relatively low frequency (maybe tell you something about the designer's brain speed
I wonder if the proximity to the xenons is a problem. Do they even get that hot xenons? Never tried touching one
For example: On this page, at the bottom it says related products and has 2 types of resistors. When you read the description it states they are to prevent DIS errors, but would they double-up as extra protection for the LEDs themselves?
I am pretty confused here. Do the LED 501s (say, from ultraleds) need resistors or are they designed to plug straight into the holder?
THey must already have resistors in them otherwise they would blow almost immediately. The resistance also serves to fool the DIS into thinking that the bulbs are present because approx the right current is flowing (through the resistors). The tricky thing is getting the resistance right so that 1) the DIS is seeing the right current flowing for a normal bulb and 2) not too much current is flowing through the LEDs.
The amount of current flowing is inverserly proportional to the resistance, so the bigger the resistor, the less current, the better for the LED. BUT if the resistance is too great, the DIS will think the bulb has blown because not enough current is flowing.
I suspect that the issues we are seeing are due to poor design of the LED bulbs. The link to the resistors would be for LED bulbs that don't have built in resistors.
The amount of current flowing is inverserly proportional to the resistance, so the bigger the resistor, the less current, the better for the LED. BUT if the resistance is too great, the DIS will think the bulb has blown because not enough current is flowing.
I suspect that the issues we are seeing are due to poor design of the LED bulbs. The link to the resistors would be for LED bulbs that don't have built in resistors.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Ahh, I see.
So if the resistors are already built in, they must be pretty damn small and not rated for especially high current? Not only that but they must get pretty hot what with the in-built resistor and proximity to the xenons?
Wouldn't it be more reliable to go for LEDs without resistors and fit the juicier resistors separately? The heat from the resistor would then be outside the unit away from the light unit and LEDs.
Mind you, all that hassle would put most people off..
So if the resistors are already built in, they must be pretty damn small and not rated for especially high current? Not only that but they must get pretty hot what with the in-built resistor and proximity to the xenons?
Wouldn't it be more reliable to go for LEDs without resistors and fit the juicier resistors separately? The heat from the resistor would then be outside the unit away from the light unit and LEDs.
Mind you, all that hassle would put most people off..
Last edited by MoRS6+ on Tue Nov 09, 2010 10:44 am, edited 2 times in total.
Sounds like the 501 bulbs that that site sells have built in resistors to protect the LEDs, but not to fool the DIS. The resistor pack is for fooling the DIS if the LED bulb gives errors.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Does the DIS check for sidelight bulb failure on the RS6? I'm not even sure it does.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
No, i don't think so.Shoppinit wrote:Does the DIS check for sidelight bulb failure on the RS6? I'm not even sure it does.
My girlfriends A3 couldn't run the same LED's as me in the RS6 due to her car throwing up a bulb fault on the DIS and they worked fine in my car.
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Sepang Blue C6 RS6 Avant, Mapped, LED upgrade. Gone but not forgotten...
Black C6 RS6 Avant, Mapped, Non Res Milltek, Black Optic Grill, and Fully Loaded... Gone but not forgotten...
Black C5 RS6 Avant, MTM Mapped, Non Res Milltek, Black Optics, and Fully Loaded... Gone but not forgotten...
Blue S2 Avant, Mapped, 18 OEM S4 alloys... Probably in the scrapyard now...
Oak Green Corrado VR6, for life...
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