RS6 Resuscitation

[Weiß-sechs]

More than a bag of sand but less than an Archer guvnor

[pete62]

Quite a lot of bees and honey then

[Modz]

Try midland turbos, they are a very good from the experiences of friends Who used them in the past.... Failing that precision turbos in Birmingham....

[Weiß-sechs]

Chimchimeny

[C_J]

Try midland turbos, they are a very good from the experiences of friends Who used them in the past.... Failing that precision turbos in Birmingham....

Do not use midland turbos. They're <beep> and only sell exchange Chinese <beep>.

[Modz]

Hmmmm interesting, I would honestly say that I'd only use someone who is familiar with these types of turbos with a good rep.

[PoP-PoP-BANG]

Cheers for the input all.

Going with the turbo unit. They give a discount for srs forum members so works out 300quid each turbo for the refurb with warranty and they specialise in audi turbos, uprated thrust something or other. They do the billlet upgrade too for 1200 all in. But cant afford it since ive bought all new everything, literally.

Nevertheless standard turbo should be ok for at least 550bhp with uprated ic and decat?

When I've got the engine out, is there anything else in particular that i should change? Like engine mounts? I'm thinking of changing the lambdas and EGT whilst I've got easy access. Anyone know the part no for the EGT?

[sweegie]

Problem with the standard turbos is the restrictive hot side, hence Mr Weiß-sechs having a clip on the turbine wheel.

Full decat will help with top end power though.

[Weiß-sechs]

Your thoughts on the 1 bar actuators Mr Sweegie? Wee bit excessive? I've been told that anything over 0.7 bar is too much boost but can that be controlled via the N75?

[sweegie]

I've worked to using about 70% of the desired boost pressure on actuators before, with the remaining 30% coming from the bleed of by the n75 valve. The N75 can only add boost, not take it away, so you're turbo's are going to be trying to run a minimum of 1 bar right through to the redline.

Fine if the turbos can take it at the top end... I'll bet it's fast as fcuk Do you know what pressure the ECU is asking for, and is the boost smooth all the way through to the redline? Would be interesting to see a trace of pressure/load vs rpm.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Front Lambdas. Maybe EGT. Possibly cam chain tensioners & the flex joint on the manifolds.

And test the oil pressure sensor too - found mine had failed and was permanently open loop so was fail open rather than fail safe. 18 quid part, but a shed load of aggro to change once the motor is back in. (Easy to test while motor is still in from the connector on the front of the RHS rocker cover)
I think engine & gearbox mounts are OK to replace once in the car?

Are you DIYing it? If so, don't forget new propshaft bolts and assuming you're doing the cambelt - new cam sprocket bolts & washers. Plus all the M8 copper nuts for the exhaust manifolds. Small bits it's easy to forget.

Cheers for the input all.

Going with the turbo unit. They give a discount for srs forum members so works out 300quid each turbo for the refurb with warranty and they specialise in audi turbos, uprated thrust something or other. They do the billlet upgrade too for 1200 all in. But cant afford it since ive bought all new everything, literally.

Nevertheless standard turbo should be ok for at least 550bhp with uprated ic and decat?

When I've got the engine out, is there anything else in particular that i should change? Like engine mounts? I'm thinking of changing the lambdas and EGT whilst I've got easy access. Anyone know the part no for the EGT?

[Modz]

Your probably right in terms of boost, but if your turbos are or can be uprated (which in this case they won't be) they would easily hand more boost. It would be advised that if you intend to increase power more than 550hp go with uprated turbos and actuators. Your turbo specialist should be able to advise you on what's best for your requirements. I know that it was probably only a seal that failed and OEM turbos can hand the power. I personally am over kill and would rather go for stranger/bigger turbos for longer life with less stress regardless of how the gets driven. I only say this because your having to change them. However better cooling may be more cost effective to standard turbos and do the job fine, obviously cost is a big factor in all of the above.....

[sweegie]

Just add some reasoning here too...

The ECU has 2 primary load maps that govern boost pressure. 1 for standard operation, and a reduced load (safety) map for when the engine detects knocks. Load can also be modified by other maps, such as inlet air temp, to reduce (or add) pressure in cold or hot weather. Because you're running 1 bar actuators, the ECU has nowhere to go in the event of a problem - it can ask for less than 1 bar, but will never get it because the actuator will always remain shut below that pressure...

So, I guess I'd say they were a bit strong. I'm all for replacing actuators when the engine's out, because I've seen first hand that they do wear out and can't hold the exhaust gas pressure back correctly, and the wastegate opens regardless of what the N75 is asking it to do.

[Weiß-sechs]

Many thanks for your input Sweegie; it's a bit of a black art & over my head to be fair but you're basically confirming what I've been told by various "experts". The guys who carried out the conversion certainly did run into problems with overboost and the ECU going into limp; those hybrids can certainly "blow" and you're right, it's rapid! I invested in the race dp's and full de-cat for maximum flow which adds to the fun (top end especially as you say) but probably needs to be reigned in for the sake of safety and longevity.....you the man for the job?

[sweegie]

you the man for the job?

I can certainly help "you" do it What's the plan then? You going for 7psi actuators on the car and looking for a slightly more progressive map?

If you can supply the logs from some testing, I can supply the ECU code, assuming your fuelling is OK already

PM me if you're serious