Camshaft Timing

[Mɐʇʇ]

Chain tensioner? Yes, a bit.

Bar - yes. This was one of my learnings. The bar would go on easy, I'd wind it over a few times to bed the belt in, but the bar would then still go on - but at the limit of it's tolerance.
The best fit, in the end, was when the bar was exactly in the middle of the "wiggle range".

[Gregstv]

Got the engine back together. Pulled the fuel pump fuse to wind it over and build up oil pressure. The Barstard started. Still had fuel pressure in the line and injectors. Those tensioners make some noise. Shut it straight of with heart jumping out of my chest due to the noise. Told myself it's just the oil pressure needs to come up. So I started it again and it sounded how it should. Big relief. Only run for about 29 seconds and stopped. Put the fuse back in and started it again. Only run it for about
minute as no cooling hook up yet.
Put it back on TDC and the bar still falls on. No pressure needed. So far looking good. I will get the cooling back together and run it up to temp and then check with VCDS.
Lots of little things to do during the reassemble. The cooling lines for the transmission dont go through the radiator to do the warming. I will put this back to how it should be. Some wireing to tidy up as well.

[Mɐʇʇ]

I hear ya. With newly (re)fitted adjusters it makes a right fkkn racket doesn’t it until they fill with oil. Plus the old PS pump likes making a good old noise if the oil is aerated too. Combine that with if it’s the first start since a gearbox oil change and the whole damn thing sounds like it’s falling apart.

[Gregstv]

Finally got it back together enough to run it, This is what I got from group 91,92 and 93 after running it up to temp.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Spec is +-6 on group 093, so you're good to go!

[Gregstv]

Thanks for your help Matt.

[Gregstv]

Fun day. The cam timing was only advancing to 16deg on bank 2. Bank 1 goes to 21.5. checked voltages to the cam chain adjuster and it is fine. Unplugged the cam angle sensor and plugged it back in. All bank 2 readings changed again. Move the harness and it came good. Looks like I need to operate on the harness and find out what is going on. All the black cable wrap is brittle so I think I have some bare wires somewhere.

[Shoppinit]

That’s weird because it’s an all or nothing system.

You sure it’s not that the adaptation wasn’t completed the first time you checked and saw it was 16?

[Gregstv]

First few times I started it it was 0 to .5 on group 92 at idle. I changed the MAF today moving the harness around the cam angle sensor. Group 92 went to -10 at idle and only 11 deg advance. Played around again and it's 0 at idle and advances to 21.5 same as group 91. Maybe a bad cam angle sensor now I look at the numbers. -10 plus advance of 22 is close enough to 11deg which is what I got.

[Mɐʇʇ]

The cam angle sensors are all solid state and the triggers can only go on one way. So unlikely to be mechanical issue with the sensor, but guess could be electronic.
Wiring - could be - but would expect a wiring issue to manifest itself as an unstable or pegged signal.

[Gregstv]

After redoing the wiring for the Cam sensor and the MAFs all was good. Took it for a drive and the ABS light came on. Return pump fault. It's only happened since moving the harness. I to think there is some issues deeper in the harness. Need to start tracking the wires back. All earth leads have cracks in there sheaths. I wonder how far back it will be cracking.

[Mɐʇʇ]

Interesting - this is prob something everyone should keep an eye on

All earth leads have cracks in their sheaths.

[Gregstv]

Anyone have a pinout for the ABS module? It's a 47 pin connector. Bently don't seem to cover the RS6 module.

[Shoppinit]

Yeah, I'll PM it to you.

[Gregstv]

Have something strange going on. Fixed the ground and left the battery disconnected over night. ABS Faul gone. Now have the cam timing issue back. Bank 2 only advancing to 11 deg. Tried to change the tune with the 034 loader and get an error. Cleared everything with VCDS and now the ABS fault is back and still has cam issue. Went to check the plug on the ECU and it's still has rivits stopping it coming apart. Best way to remove rivits? I am thinking dermal. Any better way?