Key Coding Problem
Re: Key Coding Problem
I need to have another look at this as I forgot how annoying it is using the key to lock and unlock it.
Re: Key Coding Problem
So yesterday and today the car has acted wierd!
Yesterday I unlock the car with the key which I've been doing since buying it. The hazards start flashing at a faster rate than normal, the central locking no longer works but it unlocked the drivers door and the interior light stayed on. The red light next to door lock was also flashing.
No amount of pressing the hazard switch would turn them off so I ended up disconnecting the battery which resolved it.
Same thing happened this morning, hazards switch doesn't turn them off, neither does starting the car or turning the key in the lock.
I decided to just drive to work and see if they went off which they did after about 10 minutes.
I turned the car off at work and they started flashing again along with a sound of it locking and unlocking (but not actually locking/ unlocking) and the red light on door flashing.
I decided to disconnect the battery and leave as I didn't want them to come on randomly.
My wife did mention the hazards coming on and not turning off a few months back but I didn't think anything of it.
When I've done previous scans I always get a couple of doors that won't desafe.
The locksmith who cut my key couldn't code it to get the remote to lock it but it will start.
I tried with VCDS and all the other methods and couldn't code it to lock it.
Unit 20 tried to code but couldn't get it to communicate.
Auto lock doesn't work.
And now no central locking works.
Is it worth replacing all door mechanisms or could it be the CCM?
I've decided not to drive it until it's fixed as its annoying with the hazards staying on and having to disconnect the battery to turn them off.
Yesterday I unlock the car with the key which I've been doing since buying it. The hazards start flashing at a faster rate than normal, the central locking no longer works but it unlocked the drivers door and the interior light stayed on. The red light next to door lock was also flashing.
No amount of pressing the hazard switch would turn them off so I ended up disconnecting the battery which resolved it.
Same thing happened this morning, hazards switch doesn't turn them off, neither does starting the car or turning the key in the lock.
I decided to just drive to work and see if they went off which they did after about 10 minutes.
I turned the car off at work and they started flashing again along with a sound of it locking and unlocking (but not actually locking/ unlocking) and the red light on door flashing.
I decided to disconnect the battery and leave as I didn't want them to come on randomly.
My wife did mention the hazards coming on and not turning off a few months back but I didn't think anything of it.
When I've done previous scans I always get a couple of doors that won't desafe.
The locksmith who cut my key couldn't code it to get the remote to lock it but it will start.
I tried with VCDS and all the other methods and couldn't code it to lock it.
Unit 20 tried to code but couldn't get it to communicate.
Auto lock doesn't work.
And now no central locking works.
Is it worth replacing all door mechanisms or could it be the CCM?
I've decided not to drive it until it's fixed as its annoying with the hazards staying on and having to disconnect the battery to turn them off.
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Re: Key Coding Problem
Matty. If it helps. I have a second hand ccm and 4 door locks if you need them.
Bought recently for mine. I am told they have been tested and fully functional (Steve green )
Let me know mate.
Ps. Is your remote key/fob part of your problem.
Bought recently for mine. I am told they have been tested and fully functional (Steve green )
Let me know mate.
Ps. Is your remote key/fob part of your problem.
Re: Key Coding Problem
I may possibly need those cheers, will let you know after I've done a scan and looked into measuring blocks on VCDS.
One key is brand new and the other has a new battery, both coded fine to the car to start but won't lock/ unlock from the remote.
I've tried along with a locksmith (who tried multiple systems) and Unit 20.
No communication can be made to the car.
The previous owner mentioned he replaced the ccm with a second hand unit as the original get wet. Maybe the replacement is faulty or has gotten wet again.
I'll have to pull the carpet up and check.
Thought I'd update this thread with the further issues I'm experiencing and hopefully the resolution as it might help others.
Also the suspension has started creaking at the front so something else to fix. Good job I love the car with how much I've spent in the short time I've owned it...
One key is brand new and the other has a new battery, both coded fine to the car to start but won't lock/ unlock from the remote.
I've tried along with a locksmith (who tried multiple systems) and Unit 20.
No communication can be made to the car.
The previous owner mentioned he replaced the ccm with a second hand unit as the original get wet. Maybe the replacement is faulty or has gotten wet again.
I'll have to pull the carpet up and check.
Thought I'd update this thread with the further issues I'm experiencing and hopefully the resolution as it might help others.
Also the suspension has started creaking at the front so something else to fix. Good job I love the car with how much I've spent in the short time I've owned it...
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Re: Key Coding Problem
They are here if you need them. But let me know sometime this month.
I am at unit 20 next month for cambelt etc.
and grizz agreed to change my door locks.
Mine all work ok but get won’t safe and won’t de safe every time I perform a auto scan.
No big deal but it bugs me.
Your need is greater than mine mate.
I am at unit 20 next month for cambelt etc.
and grizz agreed to change my door locks.
Mine all work ok but get won’t safe and won’t de safe every time I perform a auto scan.
No big deal but it bugs me.
Your need is greater than mine mate.
Re: Key Coding Problem
Cabin air filter foam fails and lets water in to all sorts of places. Check that as well.
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Re: Key Coding Problem
Good point suz. I would also be concerned if water was getting in.
Re: Key Coding Problem
Cheers Steve I'll have a look next week and send you a pm - I'm in London tomorrow until Sunday.
I did wonder whether the ccm might be wet due to the cabin filter leaking but won't know until I pull things apart.
Will update once I've had chance to investigate.
I did wonder whether the ccm might be wet due to the cabin filter leaking but won't know until I pull things apart.
Will update once I've had chance to investigate.
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Re: Key Coding Problem
Yeah. I was wondering if it is the ccm.
If your key blade opens the door and starts the car. Then it seems like the key is ok.
When the battery on my key is duff. I can open the door with the key blade. The alarm then goes off when I open the door. Insert the Key in the ignition and start the car. Then the alarm stops and I can drive as normal.
For whatever reason it seems like your car is not recognising your remote.
However I wouldn’t expect the hazard lights to remain flashing once the car has been started with the key in the ignition.
I think I would start with the ccm and go from there.
But I am no expert !
If your key blade opens the door and starts the car. Then it seems like the key is ok.
When the battery on my key is duff. I can open the door with the key blade. The alarm then goes off when I open the door. Insert the Key in the ignition and start the car. Then the alarm stops and I can drive as normal.
For whatever reason it seems like your car is not recognising your remote.
However I wouldn’t expect the hazard lights to remain flashing once the car has been started with the key in the ignition.
I think I would start with the ccm and go from there.
But I am no expert !
Re: Key Coding Problem
So gained access to the CCM earlier and found no water under the carpet. It felt very slightly damp under the ccm but I'm wondering if that's because it was wrapped in a carrier bag? It had obviously leaked in there before because the previous owner told me:
Also when I opened the outer box, inside it was really oily. Is this normal?
The actual circuit board looks fine:
This is the part number:
It was a second hand replacement due to the previous one getting soaked. With no signs of water or corrosion I'm wondering if the part number is the wrong one or maybe its just broken.
Steve - is yours the same part number?
Cheers
Also when I opened the outer box, inside it was really oily. Is this normal?
The actual circuit board looks fine:
This is the part number:
It was a second hand replacement due to the previous one getting soaked. With no signs of water or corrosion I'm wondering if the part number is the wrong one or maybe its just broken.
Steve - is yours the same part number?
Cheers
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Re: Key Coding Problem
Hi Matty. Will check mine in the morning mate and let you know.
Re: Key Coding Problem
Just looking on ebay at CCMS and there a few listed for the C5 RS6 but each one has a different letter at the end - does anyone know why 2 x 52 plate RS6'S would have different letters?
Also is there a way of finding out what letter mine should be or should I just get another with the same letter at the end?
I'm wondering if a different ccm was purchased and that's why I'm having the issues.
Also is there a way of finding out what letter mine should be or should I just get another with the same letter at the end?
I'm wondering if a different ccm was purchased and that's why I'm having the issues.
Re: Key Coding Problem
4B0 962 258N is the correct part number for the RS6.
The "B" version you have is for a pre-2003 A6 I believe. Doesn't mean it won't work, but it's definitely not the right module. Later A6 used the N version, too, so maybe they corrected a weakness. No way of knowing really.
What is your coding? Have you tried recoding it? You could try resetting the adaptation, too. You'd have to reprogram your keys again, but that's obviously not an issue for you since they don't work anyway.
The "B" version you have is for a pre-2003 A6 I believe. Doesn't mean it won't work, but it's definitely not the right module. Later A6 used the N version, too, so maybe they corrected a weakness. No way of knowing really.
What is your coding? Have you tried recoding it? You could try resetting the adaptation, too. You'd have to reprogram your keys again, but that's obviously not an issue for you since they don't work anyway.
Daytona RS6 C5 Avant. Viper'd, Billies, Waggers, MTM box brain, C6 stoppers, xcarlink, R8 coolant cap (woohoo)
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
///M3 E46 | XC90 (V8, natch) | Passat GTE | RR Classic V8 flapper
"The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair."
Re: Key Coding Problem
I called Audi and gave them my reg, they said mine should have a B at the end...
Mine was registered in Jan 2003 but I'm sure it was a 52 plate, can't remember as I put my plate straight on.
I saved a copy of my VCDS scan, would the adaptation be on there?
Unsure whether I need a B or N now.
Mine was registered in Jan 2003 but I'm sure it was a 52 plate, can't remember as I put my plate straight on.
I saved a copy of my VCDS scan, would the adaptation be on there?
Unsure whether I need a B or N now.
Re: Key Coding Problem
52 is September 2002 to end Feb 2003. Jan 2003 car would have been a 52.
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